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Thread: Not sure if this is bad?

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    Not sure if this is bad?

    So, i know you saw my car starting issue, well I fixed taht, the trigger wire went bad, thats it.

    Well, after the car was running, tried to put it in gear and grinded. So, shut off the car, adjusted the clutch pedal rod, started it up, and same thing. So i went back to the rod, and adjust it all the way out....oops. So, i removed the boot and found this....



    and then this was hanging there...


    and the rod itself is bent?



    So, my question, is this bad? and is it hard to get a replacement clutch booster and what do you have to do to replace it?

    1/4 mile 11.80 @117mph. 551whp 641trq @ 26psi E85 tune, MTC 19T-HLs, forge 15psi spring wastegates, 780 PTE inj, 3SX Fuel loop, ss fuel lines, Engine built by Laniers Speed shop, block bored .060 w/ chromolly rings, weisco pistons, 3sx custom forged rods, forged crank, HKS DLI, AEM EMS, AEM UEGO wideband, prosport oil and boost guages, aeromotive 1000 FPR, Dejon blow thru twintakes, Walbro E85 400 w/ 3sx hotwire kit and custom an fitting fuel pump w/ STM filter to pump line, CXRacing FMIC, Megan Racing Aluminum radiator, IPS custom downpipe, Borla 3" exhaust,Greddy profec b spec II EBC, Blitz SS BOV,R1 Drilled slotted rotors, Drag DR-31 rims, RPS stage 4 unsprung clutch,

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    I have the whole clutch pedal assembly for sale if you need one.

    Learn how to Powder Coat at www.powdercoatguide.com.

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    Is mine bad? How much

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    I dont' see anything wrong... that plastic piece is just a return spring guide. You only need the spring to retun the pedal to the loaded neutral position and the spring is locked in the retaining perch. It's not like it can escape, it's tapered at the top. The dust boot just protects the mandrel from collecting dust and dirt... no big deal. If you blew the booster, no big deal either the pedal is just double the normal pedal pressure with the pressure plate your're running.

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    That little piece you chipped off? No big deal... not structural, consider it a weight reduction mod. What's the prob with the clutch engagement?

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    You need to adjust the pedal per free play. I think TT free play is supposed to be .5", but that is off memory and needs to be verified. If no one else does it I will look into it after my shower.

    [06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM

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    its like .59-.82 i think the manuel said. Ok, so after bench bleeding the m/c, then, bleeding the rest of the line to the s/c, the car went into gear, but barely. Yesterday, I started teh car and ran perfectly. Today after doing the clutch lines and bleeding the car runs like absolute shit. feels like its missing, and then backfired. So, i pulled out he laptop and checked my cla file and its the exact one it should be. im getting spark to all cylinders. So, its not...not getting spark. i checked all conections, they seem to be al good, unpluged and replugged everything to test. I have no clue what is going on?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sin'sVr4 View Post
    its like .59-.82 i think the manuel said. Ok, so after bench bleeding the m/c, then, bleeding the rest of the line to the s/c, the car went into gear, but barely. Yesterday, I started teh car and ran perfectly. Today after doing the clutch lines and bleeding the car runs like absolute shit. feels like its missing, and then backfired. So, i pulled out he laptop and checked my cla file and its the exact one it should be. im getting spark to all cylinders. So, its not...not getting spark. i checked all conections, they seem to be al good, unpluged and replugged everything to test. I have no clue what is going on?
    I'd hate to point to this but did you leave your car with Jack when you did the T-case? You/he didn't do any test driving when you R&R'd the drivetrain? Hate to put 2 and two together but leave someone a 550hwp car and the next time you drive it you have fouled plugs and a clutch engagement problem.

    Anyway, nuff of that... did you try reloading the cal?

    You're skipping all around too! Fix one thing before you move to another, you'll never get anything fixed if you don't resolve the issues one at a time. The clutch... is it engaging low, or high... time to drop the trans again?

    No offense, but it seriously would appear as though someone tested the durability of that thing...

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    i only gave him the tcase only. Yes i did reload the cal and it was the same. I think the clutch is fuked or the fly WAS stepped wrong. Jer i need some other eyes to look this over cause im so frustrated i KNOW im missing something.

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    Well, the running shitty, the clutch, and the problem with the starter are all separate items. Lets go back to the beginning... The starter issue you had. Did you ever find out what the original starter trigger wire was grounding on? Did you locate the break and investigate the wiring harness to see what the original shorting issue was? Need to look and see if there was any additional damage to the adjacent wires if there was infact a short, bro. Have you checked the ignition lead wires and the speedo gear control wire off the trans? When you bled the slave did you stretch the trans wiring harness?

    Which one do you want to work on first the ignition issue or the clutch?

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