Alright, what are you guys using for clamps and coupler for over 30psi?

[thor'svr4]

I dont think the Variant pipe clamp supports will work because I'm not pulling the pipes apart, I'm blowing holes thru the coupler sidewalls.
The greddy one has a quarter size hole blasted out of it and the carbon fiber one has a 2" long tear.

This is going to sound really ghetto, but it worked for me. For some reason one of my ic couplers would always burst so one day my dad came home from work and handed me one of these couplers. obviously the one in the pic is not rated for high temp, but you get the idea. The metal 'sleeve' will prevent the coupler from expanding and popping like a balloon. If your problem is simply that the coupler keeps 'popping' than you might want to try using one of your heavy duty CF 7 ply couplers/Forge clamps wrapped with one of these metal sleeves to prevent the CF coupler from expanding/popping under boost.



edit: the cheep black plumbing coupler in the above pic slides right out. simply remove it then replace it with one of your heavy duty CF couplers/forge clamps.

the total cost is about $3 and worst case scenario you blow another coupler. its worth a shot if you ask me.

[Frostedbutts]

bad pictures but you can see what happened.

The black carbon fiber one blew after a pull or two with a bike. It was on the pipe that runs over the front manifold, and blew inward toward the car.

We drove back and swapped it for the blue greddy, which blew in the same spot, and in the same direction after two pulls with the bikes.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

looks like it is getting hot from the manifold

[J. Fast]

I decided I'm going to re-route the intercooler piping and make my own so I can use vibrant clamps. What do you guys think is the ideal diameter piping for my setup, 2 1/4"? Anyone know where I can get flanges for the turbo connections or should I just cut my own out of 1/4" plate? Other than weight, pro's/con's steel vs. aluminum?

[AdamVR4]

I decided I'm going to re-route the intercooler piping and make my own so I can use vibrant clamps. What do you guys think is the ideal diameter piping for my setup, 2 1/4"? Anyone know where I can get flanges for the turbo connections or should I just cut my own out of 1/4" plate? Other than weight, pro's/con's steel vs. aluminum?

The "ideal" piping size is the largest you can stomach working with/around

2.25" instead of 2.00" will save you a couple psi pressure drop based on some quick and dirty calcs I did a while back. Personally, I wouldn't bother unless I had a better reason for all the work.

[mb3000]

You're running 16g's correct? You could grab some "J pipes" off ebay and cut & fab with those.

I believe IPS sells some transition pipes as well.

[J. Fast]

The "ideal" piping size is the largest you can stomach working with/around

2.25" instead of 2.00" will save you a couple psi pressure drop based on some quick and dirty calcs I did a while back. Personally, I wouldn't bother unless I had a better reason for all the work.

Well, with the current setup I'm experiencing a 2 1/2 to 3psi pressure drop. I can't say that's all piping but it can certainly be ran more efficient. You think I can go with 2 1/2" inside diameter and not sacrifice too much on spool and boost recovery? I'm in this wierd balance area where I don't want to push hp too much further to the right because I'm seeing 2 degrees of timing drift between 7000 and 8000rpm. That's actual raw log data vs. what my demand is in my base ignition timing map interpolating additional timing compensations based on coolant temp + additional timing compensation based on AIT when seeing "x" temp. Base timing is perfect, trigger wheel overlap on cam and crank wheels is scoped and is perfect, and batt comp is spot on. I think it's drifiting from high rev... If the turbo's are going to spool later but be more efficient and it's going to require me to push the rpms above the 8500 mark then it's not going to be worth it to me and it's going to get me closer to the harmonic node in the high rpms.

EDIT: If I can make this more efficient by using larger piping, a bigger intercooler, then that's great as I'm seeing an 80 degree temp increase on AIT on a full gear pull 1st thru 5th.

[J. Fast]

You're running 16g's correct? You could grab some "J pipes" off ebay and cut & fab with those.

I believe IPS sells some transition pipes as well.

If you can find some aluminum J-pipes and a taper design to increase the j's to 2 1/2" lemme know.

[mb3000]

DEJON | Powerhouse

See anything you like?