Alright, what are you guys using for clamps and coupler for over 30psi?

[J. Fast]

For the life of me I cant keep from blowing couplers. I have Mishimoto spring T-clamps and Greddy Blue couplers . I have them wrenched down to full clamp and for the life of me I cant keep from popping off the throttle body coupler. Every time I do a pull and run 3rd gear past 6000RPM I pop that damn coupler. It scares the heck out of me because it sounds like a gunshot out the exhaust too. It's followed by a huge backfire and fireball out the tailpipe.

I ordered some CF 5 ply couplers and constant torque clamps, is that the answer?

I'm thinking... get some chinese handcuff steel braided style couplers? Do those even exist? What are you guys using for 30psi + boost minimum that holds at the TB or do I need to weld on a bead?

[green-lantern]

I bet that does scare the shit out of you.

You could try something like this.





Boost Brace Assembly Universal-Alum (12640) - Ninja Performance - Affordable Performance Auto Parts

[DrGonzo]

How is the Bead/lip on your Throttle Body???? If it's worn down then there is nothing there for the clamp to bite and it slips off. Might want to try welding on a better/larger lip and see if that helps. The know the Stock TB's has a very small lip.....

[mb3000]

Also, if the pipe is connected at a poor angle it will want to slide off easier than if both were lined up, so you might want to try that.

[mb3000]

Also, have you tried spring loaded T bolt's?

Spring Loaded T-Bolt Clamps, Constant Torque Clamps, Liner Clamps, Turbo & Intercooler Clamps, Silicone Hose Clamps

[J. Fast]

I bet that does scare the shit out of you.

You could try something like this.





Boost Brace Assembly Universal-Alum (12640) - Ninja Performance - Affordable Performance Auto Parts

I love vibrant but they're $40 a pop... I need 11 clamps. There has to be a better solution... Maybe welding on aluminum posts and machining a groove onto them on a lathe and using aluminum plate cut into strips with a hook shape cut out of it? I can make that for maybe $8 a coupler?

And yes, I did some serious pulls last night on a cruise and was blasting off hoses all night. Really damn scary, every time I blew a hose I heard a 50 cal gunshot without earplugs and the engine went into knock control.

How is the Bead/lip on your Throttle Body???? If it's worn down then there is nothing there for the clamp to bite and it slips off. Might want to try welding on a better/larger lip and see if that helps. The know the Stock TB's has a very small lip.....

It looks solid, but obviosly it's not working at all. That was my major problem area last night.

Also, if the pipe is connected at a poor angle it will want to slide off easier than if both were lined up, so you might want to try that.

Also, have you tried spring loaded T bolt's?

Spring Loaded T-Bolt Clamps, Constant Torque Clamps, Liner Clamps, Turbo & Intercooler Clamps, Silicone Hose Clamps

Ordered some constant torques, I'll try those first. I initially didn't want them because they weigh a ton. They're really really heavy.

[B-Man]

Could try wiggins clamps. Kinda expensive, but should hold.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

the throttle body lip area is too narrow for a t-bolt style clamp. The clamp is overlapping onto the lip and therefore prone to slipping off. You just need a heavy duty worm clamp there.

[AdamVR4]

I use t-bolts and silicone couplers (hose technique) and have never blown one off (up to ~33 psi). Perhaps the 3" pipe that leads into my TB is restrained by the battery.

[AdamVR4]

Also, Matt Monett was using these on his race car and they are apparently a better solution than t-bolt clamps: Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication