Deleting brake booster, non diaphragm assisted brakes

[Erron Spalsbury]

You're putting the AP's on the daily driver??

[J. Fast]

Yup AP Racing 6 pots and carbon rotors on the DD. They're already mounted, wrapped that up today with my dad. Got some weird behavior with the brakes tho. I don't think we bled them correctly becase the pedal's really squishy. Do I need to open both bleeders or just the one opposite of the line that wraps around the caliper? There's two bleeders, one on each side at the end of each row of pistons??? Do I need to bleed each row of pistons individually? Is that why the pedal is squishy?

[anyonebutme]

IIRC, you bleed both ports.

[J. Fast]

Damn, that would be the problem... The AP calipers have a feed tube that circles around the bottom of the caliper. It looked like it connected the front row to the rear row. There's a bleeder at the end of the dead ended front row on the caliper. The main brake line bolts directly to the center of the rear row of pistons. There's another bleeder at the end of that row but I figured it was for moving the feed tube to the other side of the caliper. There's 4 holes on the caliper one fore and aft the pistons. The feed tube takes up two of them (one one for each row of pistons) and I bleed from the other two? Maybe there's still air in the lines? I'll give it a spin later and see what happens.

[anyonebutme]

Yes, typically on other calipers like our stock ones, the feed enters from the top on the inside, and connects to the next row via crossover tube, ending in a bleeder. Since the AP caliper feeds from someplace other than the top of the inside piston row, needs dual bleeders per caliper.

[Erron Spalsbury]

Carbon rotors on the DD? I sure hope you've read the precaution sheet with those. They are not bolt on and go.

The tube is a crossover tube. The bleeder should be mounted at the top of the caliper. The car needs to be running and vac in the booster. (if it's still there but I think you removed that) Bleed the inside first, then the outside.