Removing clutch pedal assembly, brake booster and clutch master cyl - guides, tips?
Really struggling to find a place to start. Could use the help.
Removing clutch pedal assembly, brake booster and clutch master cyl - guides, tips?
Really struggling to find a place to start. Could use the help.
I know I took it all apart on the RHD clip. I tried getting the clutch booster peddle out of the stealth before I had it towed off. Dash was already out, nothing in the engine bay in the way. I still gave up. I need to change the master cylinder in my 91. Last time I did the engine was out. Looks like pulling the break isn't really much of an option. Hopefully there will be some good info posted in here.
Most powerful 13T car in the world @501awhp, PTE 780CC injectors, AFPR, E85, Greddy Profec B, 3.5" Granatelli MAF, MAFT, SS Headers and O2 housings front, 3SX downpipe, CRX racing FMIC, Dejon intake pipes, Ground Controls, Maximal adjustable rear control arms, Maximal TC Brace, Poly front and rear mounts, Vacuum Reduction, EGR block off plate, Hot Wired Walbro 255 and inline Walbro 255, Southbend stage 3 clutch, Slotted and vented rotors, SAFCII, Turbo XS BOV, 3SX FP hotwire, Seatle Short Shifter, Jackhammer timing gears: Best 1/4 mile 12.33 at 114.9 mph 1.79 60ft.
Pull the dash, EGR, timing cover, vac lines on the firewall, unbolt the cover on the cruise control box and spin the pulleys and release the throttle cables. Pull the throttle body cable and the cruise control actuator from the firewall and remove the cables. Pull the cruise control box once you disconnect the cables. Then undo the bolts that secure the power steering reservoir. Once you unbolt the power steering res swing it over the motor mount but keep it disconnected. Once all that crap is out of the way and pulled you can pull the brake assis and clutch stuff in about 10 mins. It sounds like a lot to remove on the engine bay side but it really only takes about 30 mins to pull all that stuff with a good set of extensions and a cordless impact. You need 10mm 12mm and 14mm's, a pair of needle nose pliers, channel locks, a 10 in 1screwdriver and it's all out.
The dash... that sucks! You should pull it so you can pull the clips from the top and you can see the harness and don't clip anything.
Last edited by J. Fast; 03-14-2012 at 12:09 AM.
I have the dash removed, the engine is out, and the power steering/cruise is removed. The whole top assembly is out and I have no roof. So what else needs removed? I got all the major stuff out of the way, I just don't know how to remove the clutch pedal assy, brake booster and master. Very difficult to see where to start.
Here is what it looks like now.
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Last edited by Gearheadvr4; 03-14-2012 at 12:39 AM.
Pull the bolts on the gas pedal assembly, and disconnect the throttle cable.
Disconnect the brakelight switch and pull the bolts on the firewall for the vac res and the pedal assembly.
Disconnect the clutch switch, unbolt the master res, unbolt the clutchpedal wall assembly and slide the assembly out
Weight reduction! Just kiddin, that's the assembly picture from ASC who built the convertible tops. I've removed so much that it's almost getting to that point.
I'm doing an 6 speed AWD Conversion TD05 3.5L into an automatic SL Spyder plus converting an old 92 VR4 to a FWD automatic. A lot of work since so much has to be swapped.
Last edited by Gearheadvr4; 03-14-2012 at 12:59 AM.
That's a winter project... don dooo it in the summer! Just quit, cut a hole in the floor, and turn it into a hot tub.
No way, I'm off work finally and I've got to get this done! Put it off for too long.
So the gas and brake have to be off first to remove the clutch pedal assembly?
I just went right to left when I was under the dash. I started with the gas, then the brake, then the clutch. The clutch is a bitch if you still have the harnesses in there. I had my A and B harness's pulled
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