Can you do a clutch booster delete?

[EvilNCarnate]

Any headway on this issue? I have had some similar issues I believe. Copy of my post from BAWC:

So I am still having issues with the clutch dragging and keeping me from downshifting to first. I know it drags because of the old put it in first, redline it and it creeps forward. I have tried to adjust the pedal and whether full in, middle or out it never fixes it, if I adjust full in I get almost no clutch travel, middle and full out are about the same.

Here are the details:

Flywheel, Machine shop says its true and the step right now is .829
New Clutch Master (Oreilly Auto)
New Clutch Slave (Oreilly Auto)
New Clutch and Pressure Plate (IPS/Southbend)
New Clutch Fork, TOB and pivot ball (Mitsu)

My current thoughts are as follows:

A) The Slave from Oreilly has a different size bore, I cant remember if its smaller or bigger, but if its larger it could be an issue of the amount of fluid pushed into the slave isnt adequate enough to move it the full length needed. Tonight I plan to swap the OEM one that popped apart back in. After finding the fork all sloppy I think the reason it popped apart was the slack in the fork.

B) The clutch booster/pedal. If there is some sort of diaphragm or bushing between the linkage inside the car and the rod that goes into the master. Obviously if there is I could have a failure point there. Even with the vac hose disconnected it feels the same, but I have noticed that when I boost the car up then use it the pedal feels firmer, even though my check valve in the hose is oriented for vac only and seems to hold firm. However if it is leaking by and the air forced into the diaphragm pressurizes and makes the booster work correctly then I have an issue with the booster. In which case I am thinking, manual clutch pedal from an NA or new/used booster.

I have yet to put my original one in. The original symptom of the car was one day I was driving home from work and lost my clutch completely. Got home and the slave dust boot had popped apart and the fluid was all over the trans. Now I put it back together and it seemed to hold up but I replaced it. I wonder if the original slave problem was caused by the fork being able to slop around so far? If the issue is reduced or removed by putting the OEM slave back in, then I will order a new OEM one, or test this one for leaks. After that my only other thought is something with the clutch booster/pedal being the issue.

Some discussion in the thread leads me to think the bore isnt the issue but the new slave could be a POS. I will be putting the original in tonight after work to see how it acts. I wont trust it unless I leak test it (maybe some food colored oil in the cylinder and submerge in a bucket of water while I pressurize the cylinder).

[JGreenwood238]

My car started having problems going into gear a while back and it turned out the clutch fork was slightly bent.

[99ishVR-4]

If you decide to swap in the na pedal assembly, you will have to drill 2 holes in the firewall as the the na master cylinder studs are directly up and down while the tt master has a diagonal pattern. Also the na clutch pedal is combined with the brake pedal assembly in one unit where the tt is 2 different 2 seperate units. Not sure if its the fix you need to do, just letting you know.

[Sin'sVr4]

i did the na setup and love it! ya the drilling the firewall was tight, but some much nicer.now if i can figure out my brake issue

[FluffyCow]

Hate to necrobump but...

I cant get my awd clutch pedal assembly to go back on the bolt. It's like my booster is physically too big. I am thinking about doing the NA pedal assembly. How difficult is that to do, exactly?

[FluffyCow]

Haalp?

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