Reason im wondering is i think my clutch booster diaphragm might be going bad. Is there a way to delete it and just go with a clutch rod to master cylinder?
Reason im wondering is i think my clutch booster diaphragm might be going bad. Is there a way to delete it and just go with a clutch rod to master cylinder?
1/4 mile 11.80 @117mph. 551whp 641trq @ 26psi E85 tune, MTC 19T-HLs, forge 15psi spring wastegates, 780 PTE inj, 3SX Fuel loop, ss fuel lines, Engine built by Laniers Speed shop, block bored .060 w/ chromolly rings, weisco pistons, 3sx custom forged rods, forged crank, HKS DLI, AEM EMS, AEM UEGO wideband, prosport oil and boost guages, aeromotive 1000 FPR, Dejon blow thru twintakes, Walbro E85 400 w/ 3sx hotwire kit and custom an fitting fuel pump w/ STM filter to pump line, CXRacing FMIC, Megan Racing Aluminum radiator, IPS custom downpipe, Borla 3" exhaust,Greddy profec b spec II EBC, Blitz SS BOV,R1 Drilled slotted rotors, Drag DR-31 rims, RPS stage 4 unsprung clutch,
Just unplug the vac line to the intake manifold and block it off, clutch pedal will be a lot heavier though.
GTO-TT, PTE 1200's, M20, Emanage Ultimate, OS Geiken R3C,
TD04-16g`s, Maf-t. 13g`s 12.4@115mph / 16g`s 12.5@117mph.
lol, actually it goes to the clutch vaccum cannister. Yes, it makes it heavier, but thats not what im asking. My clutch booster (what the actual clutch pedal is attached to) is what i want to remove and just go with the rod to master cylinder. Like on the NA's? Can I swap out the TT booster for the NA?
there is physical contact. the diaphram uses vacuum to help you push. if you unplug it's just fine. You COULD swap in an N/A pedal, but i dont see why. Waste of time.
Recertified ASE L1/L3 Master Technician
13G's on Pump 93 tuned to 421awhp/419awtq @ 17psi tuned by Pampena Motorsports ....375awtq at 2900rpm....
Billet 19T HL's on E85 tuned to .....?
why do you think the diaphragm is going bad?
lets diagnose this properly.
You could ditch it entirely and swap it for a different pedal assembly with a remote reservoir. You can put the fluid res's wherever you want. If you ditch the setup you'd get more crips shifting with an HTOB tho. Straight mechanical is very slow and unforgiving if you mis shift. Not very good for dragracing setup.
its fine for now as is, just wondering what options could be if it does crap out entirely.
1. New clutch
2.New TOB
3. New clutch slave clyinder
4. fluid is full and freshly bled
5. clutch pedal adjusted all the way out
Thats why i think the booster could be going bad.

what are your symptoms?
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
All the way out isn't always good:
Eclipse Clutch Adjustment
'92 Dodge Stealth RT/TT - Aug. 2012 COTM
What`s the clutch actually doing?.
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