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Thread: AWD addco rear sway bar installation help needed

  1. #31
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    How'd you reflatten the ends?
    '92 Dodge Stealth RT/TT - Aug. 2012 COTM

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    Quote Originally Posted by B-Man View Post
    How'd you reflatten the ends?
    Well I cut it with a cutting wheel and it wasn't perfect so I just eyeballed it with a grinder the best I could.

  3. #33
    So these don't fit from the factory or is there somethign with your car? Cutting it required for fitment?

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    They fit, you have to use shorter end links or cut the end links down... and BFH the floor at the tunnel. Pretty simple list of modifications considereing the benefit.

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    Tried to see if mine would fit without said BFH and..................gonna drop the subframe again and BFH the tunnel. Not sure yet on the endlinks, but it sure seems like the bends are too far apart in the portion of the bar that is over the driveshaft. The fix should be fairly easy, but kind of disappointing that the fit sucks.

    If you're on the fence like I was re the tunnel I'd recommend going the BFH route to start with.
    1995 3000GT VR-4, 1 of 6 identical
    DR-16Ts, ARC2, 550s, supra pump, GReddy FMIC, Tomei BOV, RPS max full face, 3SX fuel rail loop, AEM wideband boost & oil pressure in stock location, Stillen DP, gutted rear pre-cat, Tanabe Touring Medallion catback, HHH datalogger, active aero sim w/3SX splitter, vac redux, Tein S KYB GR-2, Maximal control arms, 3SX poly bushings, ss brake lines, IPS rotors carbotech pads, ABS delete HKS EVC 6, HKS DLI, Maximal powder coat, 5hp chrome twin turbo plate, BSLCDBC

    1999 3000GT VR-4, 1 of 65 identical
    Jack-stand mod for now.

    Quote Originally Posted by steve68 View Post
    it's probably fair to say that I've seen more cranks than a lot of other people on here.

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  7. #36
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    I milled .500 off of the endlinks on the Bridgeport today and the rear bar fits, barely. I will try to get a pic, but had to grind a small flat on the DS end of the sway bar to clear the hub bolts, the bar can still rub, but only if you dukes of hazzard the car over a cop car Once the control arm is up even just .25 inch, all clear.

    Next PITA issue will be the brake lines. One came apart easy, but planning to cut, re-flare, etc to get the stainless lines in.

    If you have Addco bars not installed yet, I'd recommend going the BFH and cut the endlinks route as I mentioned above and as others have indicated as well. 3SX must have a magic car since theirs apparently installed with no extra mods required. Addco could have made a better product, in my opinion, at least in terms of the fit. Can't wait to see if the bar works better than it fits (as it comes out of the box).

    I don't know how to work in the garage with out the rear subframe to trip over!!!!

  8. #37
    Will the Addco clear a PST 1-piece CFDS?

    I have my subframe out for cleanup (AWS delete, too). I know what you mean about tripping over the subframe... And the transmission.. And driveshaft, complete exhaust, transfer case, pickle forks, axles, and etc., etc.

    I've heard the Saner does not clear a 1-piece...
    Last edited by knighty; 06-10-2012 at 04:33 AM. Reason: Typo

  9. #38
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    Your guys end links really don't hit the axle nuts after shortening them? mine were hitting so I re-shortened them to the line, had to cut the bolts shorter too.. they cannot go shorter unless I cut the bushings shorter. If I apply more than half throttle it hits, hard.

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    I need pics, to my knowledge mine do not hit at all, I'll be under the car in a few minutes and I'll recheck everything. What is your ride height?

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    heading out to take some pics now, I have a 4 finger gap in the rear

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