The inverted flare is the correct fitting, but many have gotten away with just really tightening down the standard fitting (first link) and maybe adding an o-ring inside the fitting if needed.
The first one would work, I would actually trust the oring over the flare alone.

I used the first type of fitting for my hookup near the framerail by the gas tank. It leaked really badly. I'm sad to admit that I used a bunch of thread tape and its been sealed up for about 3 years.
I'd use 3sx's fitting if you don't mind the cost. The flare is the correct type of seal and it is steel so it should mate well to the stock steel line.
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
How should I mate stock feed to the tank? Is stock return hole big enough? Should I just remove fuel tank and start from there?
not starting another topic because its related.
stock return nipple just looks too small. I guess I'll just have to drill a third hole in sending unit. Any other thoughts, suggestions?

the nipple is not as much of a restriction since it is so short.
Take the "U" piece off the filter and sand it with emory cloth and cut it. Sweat on a on a 316 stainless, 37 degree JIC to tube fitting. The fitting is $6... or you can use a compression to JIC that fitting is $14... The OEM's fuel fitler "U" is a doube sweat fitting BTW so anyone who is opposed to sweat fittings... blah blah.
I just did this with no prior knowledge (bad idea). Ended up cutting the stock filter "U" and using regular old fuel line from the regulator to the cut "U". At the tank I just got a bigger ID hose than stock. Can get my base FP down real low even with a Deatschwerks pump.
why not just stuff hose over the flare and clamp it down?
Maddog Performance Engineering
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