View Poll Results: 13T's or Billet DR650's

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  • 13T's, use the money saved for more mods

    23 50.00%
  • Billet DR650's, dont be a pussy!

    23 50.00%
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Thread: Should I go 13T's or billet DR650's?

  1. #21
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    I would go with the billet DR-650s over the 13Ts for higher pump gas numbers plus more turbo headroom, but on a budget 13Ts would work. Going back to TD04 turbos I can't go any smaller than 19T since I'm used to more power but the low-end torque of a smaller turbo is nice for a change. With the price difference of the 13T and DR-650 turbos you could buy a few things. Downpipe, cat-back exhaust, boost controller, boost controller, CFDS, coilovers, cam gears, cams, pre-cat eliminators, FMIC, wheels and tires, injectors, engine management, seats, gauges, clutch, Quaife diff, 60k, 120k, subframe bushings, adjustable control arms, weather stripping, powdercoating subframes, etc. I could go on but a few items from that list would be what I'd do with the price difference if you want the bang for the buck.

    I'd avoid TD05s completely. There's too many headaches involved with installation of them right now. There isn't a kit out there that fits like a glove like there used to be.
    95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.

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  3. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by j2k4 View Post
    Yeah, so why aren't you trying to bully him into 600AWHP?
    Still sore because I think 13G's are a complete waste of time and money?
    '93 VR4 | 10.57 @ 135 on C16 | 11.29 @ 125 on 93 | ~3275 lbs

  4. #23
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    I would go 13t's


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  5. #24
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    I'm kind of surprised at the results. I guess it's the price of the 13t's (still don't know where to get them new for that, unless I missed the link). From what I understand DR650's spool like 9b's but get 19T power.

    BTW if they are used turbos then you might just be throwing money away. I blew lots of cash trying to get cheap turbos. I could have bought the 750's with the money I wasted. Not doing that again!

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    Quote Originally Posted by green-lantern View Post
    I'm kind of surprised at the results. I guess it's the price of the 13t's (still don't know where to get them new for that, unless I missed the link). From what I understand DR650's spool like 9b's but get 19T power.

    BTW if they are used turbos then you might just be throwing money away. I blew lots of cash trying to get cheap turbos. I could have bought the 750's with the money I wasted. Not doing that again!
    i agree with you on that. dont waste money on cheap turbos. just get the 650s. great power for the buck. 13t arent bad. as i can recall, only 1 person made 500 on them. i made the mistake of buying cheap turbos. bad idea. now im debating on billet s or 5857s or maybe 5557s.

  7. #26
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    I'm going to assume the $800 is for used WRX 13T's rebuilt/converted for 3000GT. if so that price seams about right. i paid $1040 shipped to my door for a set of 13T's rebuilt and converted from Robbeck then got $150 back when i sent in my cores iirc.

    like others have said 13T's are the best bang for the buck turbo upgrade you can do. they cost less than some of the cat-back exhaust systems!!! But the DR650's will outperform the 13T's and any other TD04 MHI turbo.

    honestly you should just purchase the 'best' turbo your wallet can afford. if you can afford the DR's than i wouldn't even consider the 13T's. Theres no amount of supporting mods that will bring a 13T car up to DR650 hp levels.
    the basic go fast bits...
    forged short block, Billet DR1000's, 680cc injectors, meth inj, FMIC, MAFT, Apexi Neo, hotwired 255lph fuel pump.

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  8. #27
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    Yeah, the 13T's are WRX turbos that I bought and will be converted like Robbeck used to do. Its $750 to convert, $250 for the turbos, and I think I can get $200 out of my stockers.

    I also talked to MTC, they said it would be $1200 to convert to 19T's if I needed more power later on.
    Last edited by VR-4 0wnz j00; 02-21-2012 at 10:39 PM.
    1995 3000GT VR-4 Black
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    306.5hpawhp 320.5awtq @14psi

    Sold - 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT Pearl White Base

  9. #28
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    For your goals I would go with the 13T

  10. #29
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    13t's. if you destroy one, way, way cheaper to replace. that's my biggest concern with everything in DR's lineup.

    it's precisely the same reason why i may stick with chinabay 16g's instead of getting billets. i don't anticipate trouble...but it IS what it is. replacement cost for a pair of turbos is pretty much double, every time you start talking about billets & stuff. even 19t's can be difficult to get repaired/replaced...there's at least a few shops that don't build them properly (ask baadvr4). if it's a COTS mitsubishi item (or a prevalent clone of one), you've got a sense of security with it, imho.
    Last edited by IPD; 02-22-2012 at 02:32 AM.

  11. #30
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    yeah it is very true. Good stock WRX 13Ts are about $110. All you have to do is clock them, tap the water jacket for the coolant lines, and be sure you have a giant pair of snap ring pliers! I only had like an 8" pair and may that was an mfier. I actually ended up welding nails to a big pair of channel locks to get that bastard snap ring back on.

    It is hard for me to vote. I've changed turbo setups so many times and done things cheaply for so long until last fall that I'm not sure what I think anymore. I guess I need to drive the new setup to give a good answer.

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