Well before any complaining starts with dyno comparisons posted here.... Please remember, the only true comparison is those with the same test vehicle/setup. One dyno model/chassis reads different from another dyno model/chassis. Different conditions. Different setups. Different fuels. Different correction factors, all play into various dyno graphs. Use them for education purposes -- instead of setup ABC is better/worse than that setup XYZ. That is the main reason why my dyno graphs with EVO3s, 68HTAS, MTC Stage2, and MTC Stage4 are all done on my vehicle with minimal changes (if any) using the same dyno chassis and close conditions. It helps minimize the x-factor variables. Which, in turn, gives everyone (and in this case, most importantly, ME, lol) the best comparison of the different setups I've tried so far.
Regards,
JR
Best in Show - NG07
2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth)
2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth)
2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth) <--- Tuned by Ray Pampena

nice numbers, but I don't understand why you would want to bring in a DR1000 dyno when it is running 8 PSI less. If they were running the same boost they would be neck and neck. Not that it is a bad thing to be running close to. Very good option for people to use more common manifold setups. A lot of guys could pick up 150AWHP with a few hours of wrenching.
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
My thoughts exactly ^^, running a comparison to a setup running 8psi less boost is not comparable. Understandably that more boost typically yeilds more power, at the expense of added restrictions and strain, but apples-to-apples comparisons need to be conducted on the SAME setup with the SAME dyno (just has Jesse has done).
Well done Jesse, now address those bottlenecks and get back out there!
While ultimately the DR1000 car runs 8psi less, in this comparison, from 4500RPM down they are both still building boost so the comparison (sans different dyno's) can be made a little easier. And at 4500rpm, Jrink's car is well ahead of the curve. By what looks like over 100 AWTQ. That is a BUTTLOAD at 4500. You WILL feel and see that on the street.
-Chris

Subscribed
www.Chromedecu.org
Plug and Play Flash Ecus, why use a harness when you can just Plug and Play?!
2 year Warranty on all ECUs.
A donation of every Plug and Play Flash Ecu sale goes to Greg for more software goodness.
1999 Flashed Wide body 3000GT VR4, (Its Cianci's prototype car, but don't worry I fixed that.)
How To Contact Me:
eMail: apape10@yahoo.com
3SI: Jesters Deadd
www.Chromedecu.org
|
3000gt.com 3000GT / Stealth International WWWboard Archive Jim's (RED3KGT) Reststop |
|
Team 3S 3000GT / Stealth / GTO Information daveblack.net |
|
Michigan 3S MInnesota 3S Wisconsin 3S Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas 3S |
North California 3000GT/Stealth United Society of 3S Owners 3000GT/Stealth/GTO Forums 3000GT/Stealth International |
|
3S National Gathering East Coast Gathering Upper Mid-West Gathering Blue Ridge Gathering |
Bookmarks