i need find good set of headers+o2 housing +oil and coolant lines and gasket!!! DN or IPS or DR kit or Greaddy...... i need recomendation. Looks like it will coast me 4000-5000$ depends on brand! i need reliable set!!!!!!!!
i need find good set of headers+o2 housing +oil and coolant lines and gasket!!! DN or IPS or DR kit or Greaddy...... i need recomendation. Looks like it will coast me 4000-5000$ depends on brand! i need reliable set!!!!!!!!
Ported stock headers work just fine.
Current:
1972 Chevy Nova
2004 Ford F350 Lariat 6.0L
1991 Stealth TT FWD
1962 Volkswagen Beetle
Previous:
1994 Stealth RT/TT
1999 3000gt SL
1973 Volkswagen Super Beetle
1976 Jaguar XJ6
1991 Chevy S10
2000 Ford focus
Did anyone ask...what fuel???
If you want...
550 on pump gas, 16gs. Not going to get to 550 on pump with td04s. (I'm sure someone while chime in to argue some theoretical point on how's it's possible, but even if it is, it won't be cheap.)
550 on race gas, if you want bolt on...DRxxx (take your pick, 650, 700 or 750) or 19t
550 on E85 any of the above
Easiest and probably cheapest is to bolt on DR700's and have 450ish on pump and 600 on race gas.
edit: re-read original post and noticed meth injection. In that case DR700s or 750's (if you have the budget) and you are set.
Last edited by familyMAN; 12-31-2011 at 05:59 PM. Reason: reread OP
1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.
I would go DR-750s with supporting mods. It's the easiest route to go and has already been proven to make 600AWHP on pump + meth. I've seen a few blown motors from that setup because of using too much meth under the right circumstances where the tune wasn't where it needed to be, but you shouldn't have to worry so much since your motor has upgraded forged internals. If you want more power, then you can decide from there if you want to go TD05 or T3. You won't lose hardly any money at all selling the DR-750s so almost all of your investment will be recouped.
If for some reason you decide to go with a DR T3 kit even though it's totally overkill I could sell you my manifolds and wastegates for the right price.
95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.
not even close to true. if the engine is already out, you're not going to have a massive PITA over sticking with td04's. and honestly, with the cost of 750's...it's not like you'd be saving money going that route. if matt m. can get whatever he wants to charge for them, great; i still think it's rather absurd vs. a td05 kit & the potential for FURTHER upgrades.
imho, if you're hellbent on sticking with td04's at all costs & you want maximum power: 750's are your only option. otherwise, if you want "decent power", and don't want to spend 75% more, go with 19t's. however, the only real drawback you have from going with td05's is lag (which isn't even an issue for a stroker, imho).
Considering I've done both. I would rather have the 750 car. The thermal management issue is the problem with a TD05 car vs a TD04 car. Titan manifolds(from DR) are the best quality bar none, IPS being the 2nd best the rest all all crap. gilberts are nice, if you can get them.
I've built and driven both, the 750 car is better on the street. At the track, the 16g car if you really tapped into its potential will be faster. For general use the 750 car is easier to live with since you can keep the pretty well thought out stock heat shielding and ease of fitment of all components.
You will have a TON of time assembling a 16g car to match the cleanliness and execution of oem water/oil lines and thermal management. I did it once, and its not worth the effort for 75% of the people comparing the two. I built a locals 92 with E3's and there was more time in fabbing proper heat shields and assembling routing oil and water lines properly in a manor that can be driven for 100k miles only opening the hood for oil changes.
The E3's will make better power on pure gas, but not as much as people think and the lag difference between the two diminishes the power advantage of the 16g car.
Jason
Last edited by JasonY; 12-31-2011 at 07:22 PM.
I never said it couldnt be done, if i had that extra 1/2 liter of displacement, MTC's 16's are hands down the way to go. Just spent around 60hrs in "extra" work(would only take 10 now that i know what to do) to button the 16g car up as nicely as a properly assembled td04 car.
But with a 3L engine with the average guy assembling his car in the garage, the advtantage of basically having a stock(assembly) engine with a FMIC tacked on his a MUCH higher probability of success and being able to enjoy the car pretty trouble free.
Good news is, you wont make a mistake choosing either, just know the 16g's will involve more work/effort but if you really want to wring the car out, it is worth it.
Jason
Thank you everybody for yours input! I guess I need make decision!
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