It is time for my comeback... 2000-2500lb cornerweighed 3/S and 1000hp motor

[green-lantern]

Now that car is gutted! lol

Congrats on the bonus check and your new child.

[J. Fast]

Once I finish up with the seam welds I'll be moving right into a base coat of primer and straight into the cage. It's all going to happen in a very short period of time. I spent a few hours playing with the design and I think this is pretty close to what I'm going to be going with. It's based off of lots of feedback from several rally drivers and a WyoTech chassi dynamics side impact deformation study.



That's pretty much it for now. The only thing I might change is deleting the front subframe all together. I may come thru the firewall with a bar to post the rear motormount. I'll make an on the fly when I open the A-pilliars for plating.

Motor's right behind this. Gary Melcher and Hal Landry building. Myself supervising.

Talk to ya'll when I get more stuff done. Next two weeks should be really interesting... Guess we'll see what's up and how to build a winning car quick ehh Adam?

[92pearltt]

Grab four Blair Spotweld Cutting flutes, (5) three packs of 3/8" double spot weld cutter refills, a BFH, punch, and (10) 1/8" carbide drill bits for drilling pilot holes/dimpling. Gloves and glasses... there's 2000+ spotwelds to go-to-town on.

Thanks for the info, I doubt I will go as far as you are but always nice to see I can without any issue of flex. My drill is going to hate life. Any new info on that carbon fiber door GB?

[familyMAN]

Quick work on the chassis so far!

Maybe I missed it, but what is the plan for the motor/turbo setup? Staying 3.0 or going stroker?

[AdamVR4]

Talk to ya'll when I get more stuff done. Next two weeks should be really interesting... Guess we'll see what's up and how to build a winning car quick ehh Adam?

It's still nothing but hopes and dreams.

[anyonebutme]

On the FIA bars, you want the rear upper side to be tied in higher than that. Shoulder height, as they tie into the harness bar which has to be so high. The diaginal bars behind the driver must to from the upper corner, not midway up the main hoop as illustrated. The forward bars to the strut towers are also more complicated and heavy than they need to be, 2 bars foward and one diaginal (if that one fits) is more than sufficient. I also recommend a change to V style roof bars instead of X. If this is truely going to be a rally build, consider a "supernode" cage design rather than a hoop-and-halo design.

Also, deleting the front subframe probably isn't the best idea, don't forget the steering rack has to mount to something and still be removable.

[ja3gt]

Hmm interesting subscribed.

[mehrshadvr4]

Interesting to see what you are going to do with no subframe. How are you going to mount the lower control arm and such? Are u going to mount SLA Suspension like you talked about? Can't wait to see this done. Post as many pictures as you can since your car is going to be a beast hihi. Are you going to cut the front of the car like ams evo or Nelson or STM stealth? If you remove the fuel tank then you can make nice diffuser for the rear bumper.
Also you are not going to remove the tunnel welded over the lower tunnel?
Look at STM stealth if you haven't seen it yet. They took stuff out that i didn't know existed lol. They even removed stuff from the roof, but it's possible because it has sunroof.
http://www.3sgto.org/f2/2011-stm-ste...de-2731-6.html

[J. Fast]

On the FIA bars, you want the rear upper side to be tied in higher than that. Shoulder height, as they tie into the harness bar which has to be so high. The diaginal bars behind the driver must to from the upper corner, not midway up the main hoop as illustrated. The forward bars to the strut towers are also more complicated and heavy than they need to be, 2 bars foward and one diaginal (if that one fits) is more than sufficient. I also recommend a change to V style roof bars instead of X. If this is truely going to be a rally build, consider a "supernode" cage design rather than a hoop-and-halo design.

Also, deleting the front subframe probably isn't the best idea, don't forget the steering rack has to mount to something and still be removable.

Alright, if I go "V" which way do I want it facing or does it matter? Not really worried about the steering rack or subframe. The rack has what, 4 bolts? I can fab a simple support out of pencil rod and 1/4" plate if need be.

I'll talk with my crew on the FIA bar recc's and see what they say.

Interesting to see what you are going to do with no subframe. How are you going to mount the lower control arm and such? Are u going to mount SLA Suspension like you talked about? Can't wait to see this done. Post as many pictures as you can since your car is going to be a beast hihi. Are you going to cut the front of the car like ams evo or Nelson or STM stealth? If you remove the fuel tank then you can make nice diffuser for the rear bumper.
Also you are not going to remove the tunnel welded over the lower tunnel?
Look at STM stealth if you haven't seen it yet. They took stuff out that i didn't know existed lol. They even removed stuff from the roof, but it's possible because it has sunroof.
http://www.3sgto.org/f2/2011-stm-ste...de-2731-6.html

I've seen Austins build thread as well as Nelsons build threads. I tend to fall along the same path as Austin in a sense. Use more intelligence than $$ to come up with acceptable solutions. I suppose you could say they'll be some back and forth information sharing going on. I dont think he took his chassi down to the skin, as I didn't take my doors down to the skin (till I saw he did it). Now that we both know you can do do both without sacrificing anything and most importantly the chassi will remain true, that's really a big stride.

As far as the drivetrain tunnel and the floor, I'm going to keep those in place. The cab floor is the portion of the chassi that tends to spend the most time in absorbtion in the event of a collision. It's generally the first chassi envoronment involved with the deformation process and so the floor and drivetrain tunnels are pretty much the only part of a chassi you don't want to "f with" unless you're adding to them. Although I didn't depict them, I'll be adding floor cross supports that extend from the frame rails across the cab, and also adding a CF layer to the floor. The intent of those modifications is to slow the drivers cab deformation process and to aid in controlling the intrusion depth into the cab in the event of a side collision with a tree or blunt unforgiving object.

I was actually considering cutting the rear wheel wells at top centerline and building a sheet metal tunnel which extends to the rear bumper for some aero. I'm thinking it would work wonders for tire scatter.

A lot of this will just boil down to how far I want to take it. I cant really describe what the end 'look' will be. It all just boils down to me and what I want to do because I can. I'm not really trying to pave a new road or do anything different than STM was. I'm just going to put my own spin on it. I'm not really worried about subframe or mounts, or anything that involves metal for that matter. Ryerson Metals account, Dencol Metal and Machine acct, lathe, mandrel bender, BAF'n welder, AWS master fabricator / welders...all at my disposal and etc. I can buy, make, or have made, whatever the hell I want .

[mehrshadvr4]

i wasn't trying to say you should do what STM did to their cars. i know you know what you are doing. since you said 2000-2500lbs i was thinking you are going the same road as STM. it does make sense about the stiffness of the car while crashing. i guess i payed too much attention about saving weight that i didn't think of the car in side crash. i though cage always took care of both side and roll over crashes. i can't find any picture of the diffuser i saw on a r32 GTR but i saw on speed chanel that they were working on r32 gtr time attack car and there was a bumper made for that car the required cutting the bottom of the trunk to make it fit since it was since it was so high. not this but something similar to this. do you think this is possible and worth doing on a 3/s?
http://www.tunersgroup.com/images/image2374.html