It is time for my comeback... 2000-2500lb cornerweighed 3/S and 1000hp motor

[DK77]

Here's a great venue to test the car when you get it all done.

Home | Sandhills Open Road Challenge | Arnold, Nebraska

[J. Fast]

Has anyone ever done this to a 3/S?








Here's my penetration



Now it's on it's own suspension and the harness on the roof (62 wires to run the whole car) only needs ecu connectors and it's done.



Still have to seam weld a few locations in the interior and mount the baseplates for the cage. Cage goes in next Saturday.

Love to chat but I've lots to do. To answer your question Chris, my fuel lines are 1/2" PTFE ultralight. They weigh 1.6oz per foot.

[terrets]

Your crazy my friend... I like welding but dammnnn lol

[Ninja Performance]

Yes, sorry to say, a few guys have done the seam welding before.

-Chris

[Blackmount]

Pretty weldsss

[Frostedbutts]

Is that my old shell? Glad it finally gets to see some glory. If is it, call me whenever you need the title changed over - it's just sitting in a box next to my desk.

[green-lantern]

Good looking welds

[Primus101]

Great project

IMHO you're going to experience a lot of new stresses & shrinkage in the chassis doing those monster puddle welds like that- what size wire are you running?

The more time you spend 'diming' the welds, the more heat you build, the more contraction happens when it cools. That huge amount of filler & continous lengthy stretches makes matters way worse-
I would run .023" (no dimes, this is wire, not Tig!)as fast as I could (nozzle pointed towards direction of travel) for 2" on/off stitches, from side to side of the chassis. Return and fill in the blanks. Keeping the heat down and keeping the ensuing damage (contraction) evened out throughout the chassis. Have you nailed the chassis down while doing this?

.02 from a longtime custom fabricator/welder

[Ninja Performance]

Great project

IMHO you're going to experience a lot of new stresses & shrinkage in the chassis doing those monster puddle welds like that- what size wire are you running?

The more time you spend 'diming' the welds, the more heat you build, the more contraction happens when it cools. That huge amount of filler & continous lengthy stretches makes matters way worse-
I would run .023" (no dimes, this is wire, not Tig!)as fast as I could (nozzle pointed towards direction of travel) for 2" on/off stitches, from side to side of the chassis. Return and fill in the blanks. Keeping the heat down and keeping the ensuing damage (contraction) evened out throughout the chassis. Have you nailed the chassis down while doing this?

.02 from a longtime custom fabricator/welder

100% agree.

Not to nit pick, but some of the welds don't look very penetrated, esp like on the shock towers.

-Chris

[J. Fast]

Is that my old shell? Glad it finally gets to see some glory. If is it, call me whenever you need the title changed over - it's just sitting in a box next to my desk.

Yes, I ressurected it! The car a lot of reputable 3/S guys played with and royally fucked up! The one with the improperly built and balanced motor, fucked up heads, dodgy transmission work, and cat nibbled wiring... yep this is it! I'm bringing it back from the dead and no fingerprint of their work remains. This is a 100% new car Trev.

Great project

IMHO you're going to experience a lot of new stresses & shrinkage in the chassis doing those monster puddle welds like that- what size wire are you running?

The more time you spend 'diming' the welds, the more heat you build, the more contraction happens when it cools. That huge amount of filler & continous lengthy stretches makes matters way worse-
I would run .023" (no dimes, this is wire, not Tig!)as fast as I could (nozzle pointed towards direction of travel) for 2" on/off stitches, from side to side of the chassis. Return and fill in the blanks. Keeping the heat down and keeping the ensuing damage (contraction) evened out throughout the chassis. Have you nailed the chassis down while doing this?

.02 from a longtime custom fabricator/welder

I think I mentioned it before but I'm using a "Tru Way" Body and Frame Dimension Chart and a 3-axis lazer to doublecheck the frame. It's straight and I'm being careful. Though I don't do automotive welding or fabricating for a living, I've buzzed miles of high end civil and industrial metal. The dimes, I can't help it, I've been doing it for awhile so the muscle memory and technique is hard to change. It's hard to be fast and sloppy, I just can't do it.

I'll take your advice and drop down the wire size for the interior floor pan and the smaller non structural metal to .023". Thanks for the tip on that!

The welds you guys are looking at are actually 1 to 2 inch welds strung together over zipper welds every 3 inches. I zipper/stiched welded first and then welded. Those aren't continuious welds, but they look like it (LOL).

100% agree.

Not to nit pick, but some of the welds don't look very penetrated, esp like on the shock towers.

-Chris

I think it's the camera angle and the lighting casting shadows. The welds have excellent penetration. They look high but that's because the metal is thicker gauge at the towers. The catapilliar look is an illusion. The towers are thicker gauge material and the welds aren't undercut.

Question to you Chris, or anyone else that's built racecars. Did you guys build fireblocks or retro the cell under the floor pan in the rear? I'm brainstorming and looking for some pics, you have any? How did you guys protect it?