So who wants their ECU's "Chromed"?

[Greg E]

Has there been any headway on the 2-step?


Sorry if I missed it but there are so many problem solving posts to filter through to find updates... Maybe there should be to dedicated threads (troubleshooting and updates/progress).

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I started working on an all-in-one absolutely everything you need to know about flashing your ECU. Last week I got in touch with Merlin. If you read his guide to tuning an EVO you'll see what I was going for.

Anyway he's stepping up and making us one specifically for the 3/S using my disassembles and notes. This give me more time to ensure everything works as it should.

[Boostaddict]

Yeah idle tables

[Greg E]

Yeah idle tables

I hadn't forgotten about you man! This should help get your motor running better with that mustang throttle body!

[Boostaddict]

Should help you get your motor running better with that mustang throttle body!

Abso-fuking-lutely

Need to get off my ass and move my car in the shop to an area I can work on it. I need to pull the ECU and fix my soldering mess. Should probably do that ASAP.

[CoopKill]

Thank Merlin for us as well!

[TurboSinceBirth]

I guess I'm just happy to have stuck around the platform to see this because this is huge for our cars. Before it was either piggyback or AEM but now there's in some instances a cheaper/better option plus more people will start pushing their cars as a result. We can get more data on different mod changes too.

[Greg E]

Thank Merlin for us as well!

Working with Dave has been great! When he's finished, make sure to donate to him for his help!

[Stealth_RT]

Every now and then, crazy thoughts of electrical natures run amok in my head. What if.......

Assumption: The stock clutch pedal switch is open when the clutch is pushed in. Hence why you can just uplug it so that you don't have to push the clutch in to start the engine. Mine's been unplugged for years. Adding the caveat that I haven't yet dug into the actual schematics for this circuit to verify the switch operation as normally open or normally closed. But seems like a sound assumption at this time.

Fact: If you unplug the CAS sensor(s), the ECU cuts off spark and fuel to the engine. Standard way of cranking the engine w/o either to check compression.

Crazy Idea: What if you route the power feed (can't remember if it's 5V or 12V) for the CAS sensor(s) through the clutch switch (instead of the switch going to the ECU for engine starting nonsense), so that when you push in the clutch, the ECU cuts fuel and spark to the engine!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!!!!!!

Overly optimistic results: Acts like a quick and dirty NLTS. Keeps the AFR from going pig rich during shifts if you are using a MAF and open atmo BOV.

Reasons this really wouldn't work like expected: Uh.......you tell me No, I haven't tried this yet, car still isn't up and running due to non-releasing clutch issues.

Simple stupid things I've clearly overlooked: Dunno yet......point them out to me while laughing

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

uh there is full support for NLTS and stationary rev limit in the next release.

[dferguson]

Hey guys was wondering if anyone knew where the pins for the ECM flash adaptor harness could be bought (in the ST.Louis area) or ordered on the internet and a part number or pin size so i can wire up my active exhaust. Thanks