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Thread: So who wants their ECU's "Chromed"?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99 vr4 View Post
    How long does that wire need to be? I was going to offer two 18 gauge TXL wires in expanded sleeving. I have everything here, I just need to know the length...
    It would be smarter to add a pig tail speciffically for those two wires and any other add-on feature wires you are thinking about, ie map and fuel tank pressure sensor. Other wise you would have to pull the wire out to remove the ECU adaptor.
    Last edited by Jesters Deadd; 05-05-2012 at 06:45 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronatstate View Post
    Yes, thank you I understand how it works. I don't understand why I have to explain that I do know what the hell I'm talking about so many times.

    I have a 91-92 car, that's the point. I have a 1g cam/crank setup, and I am using a 99 ECU, so I have to compensate for the latency differences in the maps, so I do not run to much timing. i.e. I want to run 20 degrees of timing at 7000rpm, I need to call for 16 degrees, that way after the latency differences, I actually do get 20. See I do know how it works, thanks.
    Aaron understands the latency differences between the two generations of the engine better than anyone I know.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    thanks again for this, this is a lot easier than I thought. Thanks to your color coding advice, once you pull the fan connector off it is obvious which wires to splice into. It is very nice because due to my balance tube piping I couldn't get the low temp sensor wire back on anyway.

    The hardest part is just getting the wire back to the ecu. I'm debating on how hard to make this part on myself
    I would go under the main fuse box along the wire harness where it goes through the fire wall behind the battery. Then straight to the ECU. I would put a connector on each wire near your ecu adaptor incase you need to remove your adaptor. I would also lable them so you know which wire is hi and lo.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg E View Post
    Yes. The solinoid between the 91-97 cars are different than the 98/99s. They are mounted on the plenium instead of the firewall and the ports are 8mm hoses instead of 6mm (think that's the size, it's the same size as the BOV hose). They installed a much larger charcole canister in the last gen cars thus needed a larger solinoid and hoses to clear it.

    I suspected the ECU hardware was the same. Just the solinoid itself is different. That's why I was asking for a tester.
    DO you think it has something to do with the fuel tank pressure sensor not being installed on a 96? if you test a 96 solenoid on a 99 car it would rule out the 96 solenoid.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesters Deadd View Post
    DO you think it has something to do with the fuel tank pressure sensor not being installed on a 96? if you test a 96 solenoid on a 99 car it would rule out the 96 solenoid.
    Uhmmm I think were talking about a different circuit... Greg said

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg E View Post
    So anyway... I have some good news for your 96/97 guys!!

    If you leave all your emissions equipment & O2 sensors hooked up, everything except the purge solinoid will work. This will need to be disabled. Unfortunately, you can't disable the periphery for this without there being a side effect. I am testing this patch out on my car and it will be available for V2.

    If you leave the purge solinoid Hooked up and don't disable it, it'll click nonstop. There is some hardware difference in the board. I have not tried hooking up a 98/99 purge solinoid in place of the 96/97 to see of that fixes the issue. Would someone like to test?? I need a clean and STOCK 96/97 car to test. I will provide the parts needed.
    The fuel tank pressure sensor has nothing to do with the purge solenoid acting goofy. The lack of fuel tank pressure sensor would mean that the purge solenoid would just hold open and trip a CEL. I bet you could test this by unplugging your fuel tank pressure sensor. I can test tomorrow when the sun comes up... But if I remember that's what happened to me before... Same thing happens when you unplug the map. EGR solenoid holds open then you trip a CEL.

    But I could be wrong....
    Last edited by 99 vr4; 05-05-2012 at 09:39 PM.

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    hmmm manual says the values are the same for both.
    36-44 ohms

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesters Deadd View Post
    hmmm manual says the values are the same for both.
    36-44 ohms
    What do you think the issue could be?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99 vr4 View Post
    The fuel tank pressure sensor has nothing to do with the purge solenoid acting goofy. The lack of fuel tank pressure sensor would mean that the purge solenoid would just hold open and trip a CEL. I bet you could test this by unplugging your fuel tank pressure sensor. I can test tomorrow when the sun comes up... But if I remember that's what happened to me before... Same thing happens when you unplug the map. EGR solenoid holds open then you trip a CEL.

    But I could be wrong....

    Just saw this.

    Been driving around with the fuel tank sensor unplugged for a while. I have one periphery bit disabled. Let me find out if that bit is tied to the purge.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg E View Post
    What do you think the issue could be?
    I also was reading the manual. The electric load circuit may have something to do with it too. IT says do the test with the lights off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99 vr4 View Post
    The fuel tank pressure sensor has nothing to do with the purge solenoid acting goofy. The lack of fuel tank pressure sensor would mean that the purge solenoid would just hold open and trip a CEL. I bet you could test this by unplugging your fuel tank pressure sensor. I can test tomorrow when the sun comes up... But if I remember that's what happened to me before... Same thing happens when you unplug the map. EGR solenoid holds open then you trip a CEL.

    But I could be wrong....
    I only briefly had a chance to look into this last night. I already knew the code uses a load and RPM based table by default and it appears the pressure sensor only acts as a secondary trip condition.

    This might explain the fuel tank pressurization noise sometime people hear when first starting the car while the motor is warm.

    I'm going to do some experimenting with my car. I will start with Adams suggestion and Hook up a 94 solinoid on my car and see what happens with the purge duty cycle.

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