So who wants their ECU's "Chromed"?

[Greg E]

Fact: If you unplug the CAS sensor(s), the ECU cuts off spark and fuel to the engine. Standard way of cranking the engine w/o either to check compression.

Crazy Idea: What if you route the power feed (can't remember if it's 5V or 12V) for the CAS sensor(s) through the clutch switch (instead of the switch going to the ECU for engine starting nonsense), so that when you push in the clutch, the ECU cuts fuel and spark to the engine!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!!!!!!

Reasons this really wouldn't work like expected: Uh.......you tell me No, I haven't tried this yet, car still isn't up and running due to non-releasing clutch issues.

Simple stupid things I've clearly overlooked: Dunno yet......point them out to me while laughing

Low RPM, low cruise speeds you'd find this to be obnoxious. I drove around for a while with my Clutch In Rev Limit set at 1k and it caused a lot of grief. I keep it set at 4k now as I rarely "race" below that RPMs.

[HLxDrummer]

Every now and then, crazy thoughts of electrical natures run amok in my head. What if.......

Assumption: The stock clutch pedal switch is open when the clutch is pushed in. Hence why you can just uplug it so that you don't have to push the clutch in to start the engine. Mine's been unplugged for years. Adding the caveat that I haven't yet dug into the actual schematics for this circuit to verify the switch operation as normally open or normally closed. But seems like a sound assumption at this time.

Fact: If you unplug the CAS sensor(s), the ECU cuts off spark and fuel to the engine. Standard way of cranking the engine w/o either to check compression.

Crazy Idea: What if you route the power feed (can't remember if it's 5V or 12V) for the CAS sensor(s) through the clutch switch (instead of the switch going to the ECU for engine starting nonsense), so that when you push in the clutch, the ECU cuts fuel and spark to the engine!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!!!!!!

Overly optimistic results: Acts like a quick and dirty NLTS. Keeps the AFR from going pig rich during shifts if you are using a MAF and open atmo BOV.

Reasons this really wouldn't work like expected: Uh.......you tell me No, I haven't tried this yet, car still isn't up and running due to non-releasing clutch issues.

Simple stupid things I've clearly overlooked: Dunno yet......point them out to me while laughing

Good concept, but like Forest said it is already setup in the ECU. Also, this would make it impossible to rev match/double clutch/launch. Plus, how would you come to a stop/pull out from a stop?

[HilbillyHomeboy]

That's not how NLTS works. The point of it is to sustain boost. It's more akin to a 2 step, computer controls rpms so they don't drop off, nor do they bounce the limiter. You cut fuel and spark altogether, your boost is going to drop like a rock.

Jeremy

[NOMIEZVR4]

I've seen it being mentioned a few times here and there. On EVOscan my rear bank fuel trims and o2 feedback are stuck. Always have been since I upgraded from 360's to 560's now Delphi/PTE 1000's. The front trims (short and mid are +3 and +4 respectively...with the 1000cc injectors.

I changed bit 02 in periphery 0 which is for disabling secondary o2's and when I do that the rear starts cycling but the car runs like absolute crap...it barely runs. So is this something that is known and will be fixed in v2 or is there already a fix for this and I'm missing it?

Thanks

[Goallie11]

Are you sure your o2 sensor is good?

If it's like my problem the latencies are incorrect. Try multiplying them by two and see if that gets them moving, then raise them up or down to get close to 0. But of course make sure to raise or lower them all by the same percentage.

[NOMIEZVR4]

the car starts, runs and drives spot on. The front set of fuel trims is right where it should be. I had the same issue with the evo 560's. I also took your advice and changed the periphery 292 settings to no avail that you posted in the other site.

On periphery 292 it should be from the top 7 zeros then 5 ones then off on off on. Try that and see if it cycles.

That didn't help either.

Post 799 from this thread:

I finally installed my 560 evo injectors, and noticed something interesting. The o2 sensor labelled as rear (which is actually the front sensor, as someone else pointed out), was not oscillating as expected at idle, and the o2 trim feedback was "stuck" at -25% and would not change. When I would rev the engine the o2 sensor would then oscillate/respond, but at idle it would go back to reading lean (near 0). The o2 sensor labelled as front (actually the rear), was oscillating normally at idle, and the o2 trim was changing.

So I swapped out the o2 sensor that wasn't oscillating, and the same thing occurred. I swapped it out again with another sensor and still the same thing. At this point, I was suspicious of something in the ecu code because it was unlikely 3 o2 sensors were bad. I have several of the periphery bits disabled because I have removed EGR, EVAP, rear o2s, etc and so I wondered if one of those was causing it. Anyway, I went back to the stock tune, and only changed the fuel injector size and latency tables (I did not alter any of the periphery bits), and as soon as I started the car both o2s were oscillating like they should. After some troubleshooting, I found that it was periphery0: bit02. The name says that it disables downstream o2s but apparently it does more than that.

I've got a brand new front o2 sensor. Here are the scaling and latency values im using
[IMG]http://forums.evolutionm.net/attachm...86-scaling.png[/IMG]

[Greg E]

I've seen it being mentioned a few times here and there. On EVOscan my rear bank fuel trims and o2 feedback are stuck. Always have been since I upgraded from 360's to 560's now Delphi/PTE 1000's. The front trims (short and mid are +3 and +4 respectively...with the 1000cc injectors.

I changed bit 02 in periphery 0 which is for disabling secondary o2's and when I do that the rear starts cycling but the car runs like absolute crap...it barely runs. So is this something that is known and will be fixed in v2 or is there already a fix for this and I'm missing it?

Thanks

Your adaptor harness has the front and rear sensors backwards. This was a common issue with the earlier adaptor harness batches. Fortunately it's an easy fix if you have a bobby pin.

[Greg E]

That's not how NLTS works. The point of it is to sustain boost. It's more akin to a 2 step, computer controls rpms so they don't drop off, nor do they bounce the limiter. You cut fuel and spark altogether, your boost is going to drop like a rock.

Jeremy

I might code a true anti-lag setup like that if there is a great enough demand for it. Right now, I am just pushing to get my current mods fully tested so everyone can finally get V2.

[NOMIEZVR4]

instructions? What needs to be done? which pins exactly?

[Jesters Deadd]

pins 71,72,73,74