is anybody here on this forum running a similar setup. e85 and a arc2? im gonna be running this. any arc2 tuning experts out there besides matt? we will not help unless its a dr arc2. any help would greatly be appreciated! any im willing to pay!
is anybody here on this forum running a similar setup. e85 and a arc2? im gonna be running this. any arc2 tuning experts out there besides matt? we will not help unless its a dr arc2. any help would greatly be appreciated! any im willing to pay!
Last edited by keo92stealth; 12-17-2011 at 02:26 PM.
There's no reason you can't run E85 on an ARC-2. You're just limited to a 720cc injector size on the ARC-2 so that would equate to roughly 1000cc injectors on ethanol. If you tried to run it on regular gas there's no way it would work but in theory on ethanol it should. How much power are you looking to make?
95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.
You should be fine with that setup. However, if you run into problems you can simply wire in a SAFC before the arc2 and make a mainscale adjustment to compensate.
i hope I dont run into any problems. I talked to steve at pampena motorsports and he runs 1000cc e85 and a just a SAFC, but we shall see very soon. do any of you guys know where I should start tuning wise? I know the arc2 is easy to tune. I appreciate you guys comments and help. thanks
You shouldn't have any problems since the ARC-2 can adjust up to 720cc injectors. Ethanol uses 30+% more fuel which would make the 1000s act like or under 700cc injectors. The MID knob will always be -7 clicks no matter what. For the rest of the settings I would try +1 LOW, -7 HIGH, and +2 ACCEL. If it's too rich at idle back off the low a click or two. What you want to do when tuning the ARC-2 is let it warm up to operating temperature then make adjustments. Some people constantly adjust it when the engine is cold which makes you chase around the tune forever.
ok. i know i cant just leave the arc2 just zeroed out until warm up? it would probably run rich? so before startup, should i just preset the arc2 to those settings or somewhere in that range?
hey, I havent been a member on any 3/s forums long but in the last 2 years i have had my car, ive done alot of searching. Ive seen your username on this site and 3si. Is your setup still the 3.5 and 5857s or Do i have you mixed with someone else? i was gonna run thev 5857s but im only on the built 3l, so i went another route.
No you don't want to zero out the ARC-2 while it's warming up. What I meant is that you try those preset settings and don't touch them until the car is warmed up. When you turn one knob it will affect the tune on the others so your tune will get way out of whack if you're trying to chase it when the car hasn't come up to operating temperature.
Yes I had that setup. Long story short I ended up abandoning it for multiple reasons. I had Ray do all the lower end work and I sent my block to a local machine shop to get done. It ended up they incorrectly replaced the copper wire for the o-rings which resulted in pushing coolant as soon as the motor fired up. Between another $300 gasket set, $1k longblock, and another $5-6k in paint/bodywork I had left I ended up stopping the project. I was fed up with it and sick to my stomach. Had I driven the car before all this I probably would have stuck with it but I didn't have any fond memories with it. I only lacked putting it back together to run 6-700AWHP and a set of 300M upgraded rear axles to run closer to 1000AWHP.
Since then I parted out the car, bought a 95 TD04 upgraded Stealth, and a few parts cars. I basically only kept the tranny, transfercase, stroker short block, cams, cam gears, billet oil pump gears, T3 manifolds, injectors, engine management, and 3.5" exhaust. I'll be putting the stroker back together since I have another block non o-ringed all ready to go for it just have to assemble everything. I'll be getting a set of DR Stage III heads to put on it. I'll probably sit on the engine for awhile until I decide what to do but I'd like to go back to something similar. For now I have a much simplier setup that I'll be driving until I decide to take on a bigger project. I plan on doing a 5-speed swap with at least a Quaife front diff and hopefully a SCE center diff if I get the funds for it. I plan to explore a flashed ECU as soon as I can get an adapter harness and ECU. I plan to upgrade the turbos after that to maybe DR-750s, upgrade the whole fuel system, and then if that isn't enough I'll drop the stroker in with some T3 turbos. At least this way I'll get some enjoyment out of the car before I do another large project. Come June I might even have my own garage to work on it instead of outside sometimes not even on concrete so that'll help.
i just hate it when someone elses mistakes fucks up someones elses shit. that setup would have hurt some feelings lol. well you still pretty much got everything to do what you really want. If I didnt buy all the shit that I did, I think i probably would have went dr750 as well. I think alot of people would have went the dr750 route if they didnt spend all the cash they did on the setup they run know. Im looking to got stroker probably so time next year if all goes well. I have a 92 so I dont have the 4 bolt block so I might be thinking the 74 route. idk just yet. that type of displacement should be fun as fuck with some large snails. so whats the setup you rockin now with the 95 tt?
I would go with a 6G74 over the stroker for the cheaper cost. Pampena Motorsports 6G74 3.5 Liter to 3.8 Liter Stroker - Engine - Pampena Motorsports You end up modifying some of the exhaust and a few other things so that everything will bolt up but as long as you have all the components you need it works great. The way I see it if you want 600AWHP or less keep the stock 3.0L. If you want more go ahead and upgrade to a 3.5L because you probably want quite a bit more than 600AWHP lol.
Right now the Stealth is running a set of GT-368 turbos. It should be about 400AWHP. It feels slow but I haven't really driven the car since I'm waiting for money to tag and insure it. I hadn't planned on spending another $8k on parts cars so it has sat since then. I saved a few goodies I wanted but all the rest of the parts I'm selling. It's one way to fund the obsession and makes the girlfriend a little happier.I've had 13Ts and E16Gs before I bought a DR-900 kit which turned into twin 5857s after I went the stroker route. I get very bored when something remains the same, I change my mind all the time, and I'm always looking for the next challenge. Once I know how something works I lose some interest because there's nothing new about it anymore. I always have to tinker on something. I guess I could keep one setup on the Stealth and part out cars to get my fix, but I always like making improvements until I have a solid car. If I weren't going to keep the Stealth I would buy a Spyder in a heartbeat. I know of a cheap one that just needs a motor/drivetrain transplant which would be awesome, but I have no use for driving multiple 3S's plus I've grown to love the clean lines of a 2nd gen Stealth over other models.
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