whats everyones thoughts on the fidanza lightweight flywheel?

[Sin'sVr4]

well, my clutch is acting funny, so im going to pull it out, but since I go back in there my xmas present from my wife will be the fidanza flywheel with replaceable faces. Now, with my hp/trq #'s is it worth it/dependable? clutch pedal adjutment helped a little. the TOB squeaks like hell at idle so i want to replace it to. about 700 miles on the new clutch.

[TurboSinceBirth]

It depends on what you do with your car. If you want your car to rev faster and the rpms to drop quicker between shifts go for it.

[Valhallaz]

My last two flywheels were aluminum, and I think I'm going to look at a chromoly flywheel next time. They run about 14 lbs...

[slage]

i probably have 150hp less than you, but my fidanza has been holding up fine

[Tigchamp]

I was running around 480bhp before my engine let go as part of the rebuild I have had to replace the face plate on my fidanza flywheel as my Spec 4+ ate it.
Jeff
077.jpg075.jpg074.jpg076.jpg073.jpg

[stealthee]

Not a fan of the feel of a lightweight flywheel. I like the interia of a stocker.

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

Not a fan of the feel of a lightweight flywheel. I like the interia of a stocker.

This.

I was running around 480bhp before my engine let go as part of the rebuild I have had to replace the face plate on my fidanza flywheel as my Spec 4+ ate it.
Jeff

Yeah, bronze clutch disc + lightweight flywheel doens't go well together from what I've read from Supra guys. If you're going with a bronze clutch, go with a stock flywheel.

green-lantern
Only around 3000miles but I do have a very heavy right foot.
If You look closely at the pictures you will see that the clutch plate is starting to wear into the countersink fixing bolts.
I would imagine that it would of been fine to re-fit as it was although it would have been silly not to change the face plate with it all apart at the time.
The clutch disc had very little wear and I have re-used it although I have TIG welded the center to the plate after some having rivets failing.
As You are now a member, check out my build thread on GTOOC it goes into a bit more detail than the one on here: GTOOC - GTO/3000GT Owners Club • Login
Jeff

I would be worried about compromising the integrity of the hub disc with the heat of welding. The clutch manufacturer who centered and re-riveted my 4+ had the same concerns when I mentioned welding. That's a thin plate, hope it never blows apart on you.

[green-lantern]

I would be worried about compromising the integrity of the hub disc with the heat of welding. The clutch manufacturer who centered and re-riveted my 4+ had the same concerns when I mentioned welding. That's a thin plate, hope it never blows apart on you.

I was a bit concerned about doing that but I'm not so sure that's anymore dangerous than rivets coming loose.

BTW who did you get to re-riveted yours?

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

I was a bit concerned about doing that but I'm not so sure that's anymore dangerous than rivets coming loose.

BTW who did you get to re-riveted yours?

Well rivets coming loose and shearing will leave the hub in one piece and it will simply jam behind the pressure plate. If the hub disc has been compromised it would probably crack and blow apart into shrapnel inside the bell-housing.

Rochester Clutch & Brake Co. is the place that did mine, family owned business that's been around for over 70 years here. They'll be my clutch source from now on.

http://www.rochesterclutch.com/

[Tigchamp]

I would be worried about compromising the integrity of the hub disc with the heat of welding. The clutch manufacturer who centered and re-riveted my 4+ had the same concerns when I mentioned welding. That's a thin plate, hope it never blows apart on you.

I did concider that but I decided it was worth a go after hearing that others had done the same.
Jeff