I'd love to have something like that but I'd trade some of the travel to make it more economical.
the next problem would then be what suspension do you base that off? Unless you try to make that work with our struts then you need to pick a strut....
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How about something to adjust caster?
André
with the Suspension, the top uneven A will be the hard part, how will you mount it? how will you make sure it stays 100% aligned? are there spots to go through on both of the chassis rails? I assume that's what you'd bolt to..as PG says, how adjustable will it be? I think 99% of us looking at buying such a solution would want a coil over solution, and probably the ability to fit deeper offsets without butchering the cars panels?
I'd actually be keen to see Mark start up a thread to discuss it.
something like this?
Does not take away travel (in theory you could have more)
Does not have additional components between the shock and tyre stuffing up offset
the design of the lower arm could even let you keep stock shock, just change lower shock mount adapter or something?
While your doing this, would you adjust the brake mount to have it inboard?
keep stock bearing assembly + ABS sensor mount etc?
still the big question of what to mount the top control arm to...could you really mount it to the frame? don't the frame and subframe move slightly? a good thread to get GT into.
Last edited by MR2; 11-28-2011 at 07:51 AM.
^would be a 'bolt on' solution, possibly no body modification.
This is a type of double-A or double wishbone suspension. The wheel spindles are supported by an upper and lower 'A' shaped arm. In this type, the lower arm carries most of the load. If you look head-on at this type of system, what you'll find is that it's a very parallelogram system that allows the spindles to travel vertically up and down. When they do this, they also have a slight side-to-side motion caused by the arc that the wishbones describe around their pivot points. This side-to-side motion is known as scrub. Unless the links are infinitely long the scrub motion is always present. There are two other types of motion of the wheel relative to the body when the suspension articulates. The first and most important is a toe angle (steer angle). The second and least important, but the one which produces most pub talk is the camber angle, or lean angle. Steer and camber are the ones which wear tyres.
yet another way to do it ..., a quick creation;This is also a type of double-A arm suspension although the lower arm in these systems can sometimes be replaced with a single solid arm (as in my picture). The only real difference between this and the previous system mentioned above is that the spring/shock combo is moved from between the arms to above the upper arm. This transfers the load-bearing capability of the suspension almost entirely to the upper arm and the spring mounts. The lower arm in this instance becomes a control arm. This particular type of system isn't so popular in cars as it takes up a lot room.
IDK im just thinking out loud here;
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Last edited by mb7050; 11-28-2011 at 04:14 PM.
I would love anything that replaces heavy OEM parts with lighter parts.
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Something like this one but the upper ball joint would go into the adapter for the Hub.
I want to use the stock hubs.
It will have adjustable camber and caster.
I will make a jig to bolt onto the lower control arm mounts and that will align the upper mount so you could weld it into place and be aligned.
Last edited by markoverclock; 11-28-2011 at 06:38 PM.
What would be the benefits of basically adding a upper control arm the the stock suspension? The last picture looks as if that's all that would change, strut would still pivot with the knuckle, I just don't see the positive points in it, but I'm no wiz at the geometry of it all.
Last edited by Nationalmilkman; 11-28-2011 at 07:14 PM.
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