|**FIXED**| Turn Signal/Voltage-Gauge Flicker

**DrGonzo** · 11-16-2011, 08:53 PM

****I claim no responsibly for you doing any damage to your car by following this write up!****

A lot of people complain about how Mitsubishi wired in the turn signal circuit to the gauge clusters. For stock people they see the voltage gauge fluctuate like crazy when they use their turn signals. Others like myself with aftermarket gauges see it worse if you used the stock wiring to tap in for power.

I try to use as much stock wiring as I can as I hate having to run new wires for gauges, etc. Due to how Mitsu combined the flasher circuit with the cluster circuit, all of my gauges fluctuate badly when I use my signals as I used the stock power supply for all my digital gauges. It's almost to the point I don't want to use them as it is so bad. Here is a video of how bad mine really are:

I had some free time to I went searching the wiring diagrams for an answer. In the manual I found how the combined the two circuits:

The yellow line is the power from the Junction box to feed the hazard switch. Somewhere after the D-44 connector "One of the connectors you disconnect on the driver side to remove the dash" it splits off to feed power to the gauges/warning lights/MFI system/ ETC. I was not going to tear a whole dash harness apart looking for the split so I decided to add a separate power source in via a relay right behind the flasher button.

You will need a standard 12v relay. I am using a 30amp Hella relay, An inline fuse for the new power supply, some wire and connectors.

Here is a quick relay diagram:

And the completed relay wiring:

So remove the center vent with the hazard button. We have to splice a relay into one of the wires on the hazard switch.

Here is the wire we are looking for:

Black wire with a white stripe

Connector diagram:

Wire tagged with blue tape:

I am placing the relay inside the dash next to the main cluster for easy access. Also allows access a good ground using the bolt behind the gauge cluster. Just tuck the relay and wiring off to the right and run the two wires (86 & 87) from the relay to the hazard button location:

Strip back some electrical tape so you have enough to work with and cut the wire. With the two wires you ran from the relay wire them in as follows:

Relay Wire 87 - goes to the Hazard Switch Side "New Separate Power Source"
Relay Wire 86 - Goes to the wiring harness side "Trigger Wire"

*Note - Please use connectors or solder for the wires. The image above was taken on my mock-up dash so this is not the permanent wiring.

Now you will just need to run the 12v wire to a power source and is dependent of what you have hooked up already.

Follow up: So what we have done is removed the power drain caused by the turn signal power feeding off of everything else and given it it's own main power supply.

From looking at the manual the circuit is the same for all years and models so this fix will work for everyone.

Tomorrow if the weather is nice I will be installing mine. Mine is a little more difficult as my switch is not in the stock location.