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Thread: If remote tuning possible with AEM EMS or someone to build a startup calibration

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    If remote tuning possible with AEM EMS or someone to build a startup calibration

    I am hoping JFast will chime in and what can be done. I just got my car running; well kinda running. But what I am having an issue with is getting the car tuned enough so I can take it to be professional tuned. I found a shop but almost an hour away and I do not have a trailer anymore. So what I need to know if someone can build me a reliable starting tune since AEM's is not close or do a remote tune. I have upgraded turbos, intercooler ,injectors bov, Wideband uego, true boost, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator. I will pay for this with in reason. Since the shop that doing the final tune is charging a flat $600 dollar fee including the dyno time.
    Nathaniel Colton Orr Born 12/23/2011 6lbs 13oz, 20 inches healthy as can be for being early!!!!!!!!!
    BEST EARLY CHRISTMAS PRESENT EVER A SON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    92 Stealth TT R/T
    Mods: t30 ball bearing turbos, IPS FMIC, AEM V2.0 standalone, Tial BOV, Ksport struts, Tublar upper rear control arms, VOLKS 18 inch 2 piece wheels, AEM Wideband O2, AEM True Boost, 780 injector, IPS fuel rails, AEROMOTIVE FPR, FM Oil cooler, RPS Flywheel, Kevlar timing belt, hose candy silcone lines and fittings, krank vent system, single pass 3sx radiator soon as I finish getting all parts installed in trans, 6 speed trans with dog box and Torison Diff ,and Kaaz rear diff

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    That $600 flat rate with dyno work is cheap, probably to cheap unless they've done hundreds of these cars.
    What do they provide with that price? Tech support? Diagnostic? Driveability guarantee?
    Are you going to run E-85 (E-70 in most states now), or 92 octane?

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    They have done I believe fifty over last 10 years when I went thru there dyno logs. They do a lot of Evo, WRX,Lambrogini,and Ferrari which they were finishing one while I was there. I never knew they were around because they specialize in high end exotics and advertise in those mags. They guarantee drivability and support. As of right now I am going with pump 92 not enough e85 available in the area sometime you have to to drive over 25 miles for e85. I want to go e85 but not until it is more available in my area.

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    Setup? Motor, heads, turbo's, injector mfr, intercooler/s, type of fuel pump, base fuel pressure, target boost, idle AFR, type of fuel, any O2 feedback or straight wideband on the dash?

  5. #5
    hey J.Fast could you make me a Startup cal for AEM EMSv2 id be willing to pay a little for your time if you can
    my car is 93 3000GT VR4 Stock except:
    AEM EMS v2
    AEM O2 Sensor x1 /Guage tied into EMS
    AEM MAP 3.5bar
    AEM IAT
    3sx fuel loop+FPR+Guage set to stock pressure
    255 Walbro hotwired
    running 92 octane

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    Dude, trust me on this; you will be FAR better off in the long run by biting the bullet and learning how to do this yourself.

    It unquestionably seems scary (I know it was for me when I started doing it 12 years ago) but everything is learnable and doable.

    The trick is to enable O2 feedback across the entire range, starting at an engine temp higher than the last cell that has any warmup enrichment fuel in it. Plug in the proper A/F ratios in the O2 feedback map (14.7:1 at off boost, 13:1 or so at zero boost, 12:1 at low boost, 11:1 at high boost) and start logging the O2 Feedback % numbers. The O2 feedback will keep the motor on the right A/F ratio, and you can start adding or pulling fuel to get the O2 feedback number within about 3% either way on each cell.

    Concentrate on low load at first. Do cruise. It's safer, slower, and easier.

    As the cruise cells fill in, you'll start to see patterns in the fuel map. By scaling the map at higher load levels, you'll get close without ever having to run the car into those cells (and the O2 feedback will cover your ass for the rest)

    You can then set the boost controller for wastegate pressure, and start tuning the low boost numbers. Once those are roughed in, start increasing the boost numbers and tune those cells too - remember, you are trying to get the O2 feedback within 3% (and I tune so O2 feedback is pulling -3% or less, but never adding - meaning that the raw map is ever-so-slightly rich, which is safe)

    And the whole time, you can adjust and tune the rest of the map based on symmetries and patterns that emerge.

    With this done, you can go to the dyno and fine-tune under load, and try different timing values to start looking for more power. But this isn't worth doing until you have the cruise stuff done.

    And then you can move to startup/warmup tuning.

    I've had/seen very mixed results with "pro tuners". Some of them are right out to lunch. Most of them do a simple smoothing of the A/F curve at WOT loads and set A/F and timing so it doesn't knock and call it a day. A very, very small minority have some good tricks for finding power that are non-obvious - but these guys typically need a decent tune as a baseline, or you wind up paying for them to do your roughing-out work.

    Dyno tuning is a really easy way to make a quick buck and send the customer away feling happy without having to do much work, where 90% of the tuning winds up needing to be done off-dyno, and 75% of that is startup/warmup which needs many, many cooldown and warmup cycles.

    My current AEM tune is super solid in cruise and low boost. Warmup is near perfect. Startup works down to -15C, although it is still a little ragged at cooler temps and I'm back into refining it now that the temps are cooling off again. I haven't gone chasing big power yet because I've identified a mechanical fueling capacity shortfall (I'm on stock injectors and stock fuel pump) so I've capped boost at a safe level pending injector and pump upgrades (and yet it still made over 300 HP at the wheels) And I'm also working on getting EGR working too.

    But most importantly, I am master of my own destiny and not beholden to any "t00ner" to look at my car every time it burps or hiccups.

    Learn to do it yourself.

    DG

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    For J.fast.
    stock heads and cams, car has done
    PTE 780 low impudence at 43.5 psi
    Turbo are the IPS T30 ball bearing internal wastegate
    Target fuel pressure is 45the psi with Aeromotive For with IPS billet fuel rail and hotwired walbro 255 fuel pump
    I am looking at 14 psi of boost I have AEM true boost
    I have an IPS 750hp fmic kit
    I have the AEM Digital wide band wired in 30-4100 I would like feedback since it is wired in by the aem directions

    I am going to run on 92 octane for now
    Motor itself is stock other than it has fresh stock complete overhaul 4 bolt main
    Tialsport bov 9lbs spring in it
    I want to keep it as mild as possible due to it has no drivetrain reinforcement yet.
    I have stage 2 clutch and lightweight flywheel

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    *sigh*

    DG

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    Dg. The only reason I am doing this is I have tried to do it and continue to have issue the car will not stable idle and will come off enrichment and rev uncontrollable I am not finding why the iac is being shutoff and it goes off on mind of it owns. Beside I do not have time or the money to damage the engine.

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    $600 is dirt cheap. For a FULL tune I wouldn't trust something that cheap. Remember, Dyno/power pulls are about 20% of tuning a standalone.

    -Chris

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