Deleted my oil cooler.

[mb7050]

yes I would like to do an oil filer "upgrade" with one of these https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...ion&key=25-826 or a similar filter . but I have heard so many bad thing about the canton filters that I don´t think I can ever use one

a dual filter setup like in the porsche 997 would be nice too

one of porsche filter vs ours .way higher psi pressure relief valve and much more flow


I have been about to do it many times but never felt a real need to do it ...

[mb7050]

The only thing that scares me a little about aftermarket oil coolers is I would want to make sure it flows > = to the stock one. You can spin a bearing in one of these cars with a shitty oil filter cutting off flow so I've been a bit hesitant to go with one without investigating them a bit more.

thats why I went with a fluidyne cooler one of the highest rated heat transfer and efficiency numbers and should not cause pressure drops, fluidyne oil coolers are considered just as high quality as SETRAB and setrab is the top brand but ridiculously expensive IMO

[J. Fast]

Where is this high temperature oil J. Fast?

Didn't have time to offer my opinion on this till I had some time...

The mindset in the thread was leaning towards refined petroleum motor oil and how it performs. You are correct in saying that refined motor oil is not high temp oil. However, we now have synthetics, better yet, true synthetics. True synthetic motor oils are pure chemical so they can be engineered to perform at very specific temperature and viscosity ranges. You want an oil that performs best at 200* buy it, 240*, 260, 280* and etc. You can buy synthetic oil engineered for every temperature, pressure, viscosity, and wear condition or range imaginable. Someone with some interest in how their engine behaves will know to shop for synthetic oil producing "x" oil pressure at "y" rpm when the engine oil is at "z" temperature. You can buy it that way, at least that’s how I was informed to select motor oil.

Where's the high temp oil? That's the essence of being synthetic. From the published articles I've read by Mobil-1, AMSOIL, and Shell, I feel you can purchase synthetic oil engineered to maintain its weight and performance characteristics in any temperature range you want whether it be high temp, low temp, or a combination of both. Consequently, oil selection has its compromises too. What you may benefit from in one area you will sacrifice in another. For the most part it seemed to me like the additives in full synthetics, whether it be friction modifiers, stabilizers, aeration reducers, and etc dictate the performance window.

It's my understanding every synthetic oil marketed has a published thin film oxygen performance rating, and bearing wear rating (I believe called a four ball wear test?) which outlines its oils performance under varying heat and oxygen exposures. Additionally, there's published NOACK tests which clearly illustrate brand x, y, z’s oil performance volatility based on temp, pressure, and etc. Now, if you’re going to burn your oil or exceed the operating window then by all means add a cooler.

[green-lantern]

yes I would like to do an oil filer "upgrade" with one of these https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...ion&key=25-826 or a similar filter . but I have heard so many bad thing about the canton filters that I don´t think I can ever use one

a dual filter setup like in the porsche 997 would be nice too

+1 on canton, I just don't trust them. I'm sure some of the remote options are fine but I think I'd rather go another route. I think it can be done better and cheaper. Again I worry about monkeying with the stock setup too much because if I overlook something it can be engine failure. I probably will do a remote option but I just want to make sure I don't do more harm than good.

[green-lantern]

thats why I went with a fluidyne cooler one of the highest rated heat transfer and efficiency numbers and should not cause pressure drops, fluidyne oil coolers are considered just as high quality as SETRAB and setrab is the top brand but ridiculously expensive IMO

Thanks again for the info. I'm probably going to do the same setup as yours. How much do you have in it?

[green-lantern]

What is the biggest I can fit in the stock location? I have a FMIC so I really don't want to put it up front.

[mb7050]

Russell proclasic hoses and fitting were something like ~150$ I didn't hunt for the best prices on the parts and russell ain´t the cheapest brand. the core was 280$ I´m sure you could get similar results with the 150$(11x8x2 fluidyne core). I´m fairly certain you can sidemount that one too .

[Alex3000gt]

Good posts guys!

The only thing that scares me a little about aftermarket oil coolers is I would want to make sure it flows > = to the stock one. You can spin a bearing in one of these cars with a shitty oil filter cutting off flow so I've been a bit hesitant to go with one without investigating them a bit more. I've also wanted to do a remote oil filter with a bigger filter. There seems to be plenty of large remote oil filter kits that use a big V8 domestic oil filter that would work nicely.

For flow, what you would want to compare is pressure drop across the oil cooler. If you know the stock oil cooler's pressure drop at a given flow rate, then make sure the one you buy is less than or equal to that. Also consider the total amount of oil your system will need if you increase the size of your oil cooler.

[AudibleSilence]

Didn't have time to offer my opinion on this till I had some time...

The mindset in the thread was leaning towards refined petroleum motor oil and how it performs. You are correct in saying that refined motor oil is not high temp oil. However, we now have synthetics, better yet, true synthetics. True synthetic motor oils are pure chemical so they can be engineered to perform at very specific temperature and viscosity ranges. You want an oil that performs best at 200* buy it, 240*, 260, 280* and etc. You can buy synthetic oil engineered for every temperature, pressure, viscosity, and wear condition or range imaginable. Someone with some interest in how their engine behaves will know to shop for synthetic oil producing "x" oil pressure at "y" rpm when the engine oil is at "z" temperature. You can buy it that way, at least that’s how I was informed to select motor oil.

Where's the high temp oil? That's the essence of being synthetic. From the published articles I've read by Mobil-1, AMSOIL, and Shell, I feel you can purchase synthetic oil engineered to maintain its weight and performance characteristics in any temperature range you want whether it be high temp, low temp, or a combination of both. Consequently, oil selection has its compromises too. What you may benefit from in one area you will sacrifice in another. For the most part it seemed to me like the additives in full synthetics, whether it be friction modifiers, stabilizers, aeration reducers, and etc dictate the performance window.

It's my understanding every synthetic oil marketed has a published thin film oxygen performance rating, and bearing wear rating (I believe called a four ball wear test?) which outlines its oils performance under varying heat and oxygen exposures. Additionally, there's published NOACK tests which clearly illustrate brand x, y, z’s oil performance volatility based on temp, pressure, and etc. Now, if you’re going to burn your oil or exceed the operating window then by all means add a cooler.

Or you could just read a Technical Data Sheets and not worry about the conditions and approximations of the test conditions. You are correct, the additive package is key. Some packages are better for engine metals than others, others are best for deposits..

p.s. The W in an oil rating doesn't stand for weight it stands for Winter. You can lose performance from going too thick.. I personally wouldn't go lower than 5w30..but I've seen some 0's out there o.0 I've never heard of someone choosing oil based on a certain pressure at a certain temp..

If folks want an oil thread..I'll start one. Then again what do I know, I just work for an oil company.

[mb3000]

Or you could just read a Technical Data Sheets and not worry about the conditions and approximations of the test conditions. You are correct, the additive package is key. Some packages are better for engine metals than others, others are best for deposits..

p.s. The W in an oil rating doesn't stand for weight it stands for Winter. You can lose performance from going too thick.. I personally wouldn't go lower than 5w30..but I've seen some 0's out there o.0 I've never heard of someone choosing oil based on a certain pressure at a certain temp..

If folks want an oil thread..I'll start one. Then again what do I know, I just work for an oil company.

Start one.