Engine's Out! Winter build has started

[green-lantern]

yeah it had 161,000 miles. Main thing was I know that the DR750s are not going to be kind to my old cast crank, so I got a forged one. I hope I don't need any machine work done, this will get done really fast if I don't.

Sticking with the 2 bolt though.

Are you going to have a machine shop go over everything? If it’s too lose and they want to grind and use oversize bearings don’t let them because you can probably use select fit mitsu bearings. My shop wanted to grind my crank but I was able to use the select fit and it came out perfect. The guy acted mad when I told him no don’t grind it I can get bearings that fit, he didn’t believe me. lol He changed his damn tune later when he had to eat his words. Other than that he did a great job.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Are you going to have a machine shop go over everything? If it’s too lose and they want to grind and use oversize bearings don’t let them because you can probably use select fit mitsu bearings. My shop wanted to grind my crank but I was able to use the select fit and it came out perfect. The guy acted mad when I told him no don’t grind it I can get bearings that fit, he didn’t believe me. lol He changed his damn tune later when he had to eat his words. Other than that he did a great job.

I don't know yet, it really depends on the condition of the bores. If I can get away with a light hone and just new rings I'll probably not need machine work. I have some bore gauge tools to inspect the bores, I'm going to blueprint them the best I can and see if they are out of round.

The crank I have now is already micro-polished from a machine shop and it has already been checked out to be std. std. The only thing I'm concerned about are the rods. I'm sure they could use resizing, but if I am going to go to that trouble I'm going with the spool/3sx rods.

I'm going to look at the rod bearings and if they are worn evenly I'm going to put the new crank in and plastigauge. If I get between .0015 and .0025 I'm not going to get much more excited about it. It isn't like I'm pushing the limit of anything and I'd rather take my chances on the stock machine work than get it screwed up. Clevites came out to .002 last time when I swapped them out, so unless this crank is a lot smaller I should be okay.

I'm definitely not going to grind the crank. This engine has never spun a bearing, had good compression, and good leak down so I really don't think its going to need too much work.

[Ninja Performance]

I don't know yet, it really depends on the condition of the bores. If I can get away with a light hone and just new rings I'll probably not need machine work. I have some bore gauge tools to inspect the bores, I'm going to blueprint them the best I can and see if they are out of round.

The crank I have now is already micro-polished from a machine shop and it has already been checked out to be std. std. The only thing I'm concerned about are the rods. I'm sure they could use resizing, but if I am going to go to that trouble I'm going with the spool/3sx rods.

I'm going to look at the rod bearings and if they are worn evenly I'm going to put the new crank in and plastigauge. If I get between .0015 and .0025 I'm not going to get much more excited about it. It isn't like I'm pushing the limit of anything and I'd rather take my chances on the stock machine work than get it screwed up. Clevites came out to .002 last time when I swapped them out, so unless this crank is a lot smaller I should be okay.

I'm definitely not going to grind the crank. This engine has never spun a bearing, had good compression, and good leak down so I really don't think its going to need too much work.

I would shoot for 20 on the mains and rods. Resizing the rods is pretty cheap as are spool rods.

You may want to shore up the girdle with these, it is what was on my setup when I was 2 bolt.

ARP 6G72 91-92 TT 2 Bolt Main Studs (NP2boltmains) - Ninja Performance - Affordable Performance

-Chris