Engine's Out! Winter build has started

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

That cast crank would really concern me at 500+ AWHP. Did IPO's testing at 3SX put your mind at ease there?

525 AWHP at ~22-24 psi on pump gas should be totally doable; at least it's doable with my DR headers + E3's.

I'm with you on Ray/Scott engines. I still go back and forth on my long-term goals, but if I ever plan to push beyond 600 AWHP, I'm getting a 4340 crank and letting Ray do the assembly.

What sort of bell housing damage are we talking about? Unless your trans has been eating synchros on a regular basis, I'd stick with the original bell housing and swap in a new synchro. 1st and 2nd gear are so easy I used to pull the trans, make the synchro swap and have the car running again the same day.

Man, if you've got a 300m 18 spline output shaft, why are you beating yourself up about spline count? Stick with the 18 spline and install your billet t-case housing!

I have a forged crank ready to go in. Not going to try to make this much power on the cast one.

There are a couple of bolt holes that had the ends popped out from too much RTV when this thing was rebuilt in the past. It's holding up, but not without jb-weld One of the long bolts that goes from the end case through the mid and into the bellhousing didn't torque up very well last time when I swapped out my output shaft.

I think I'm going to also put a new third in. I have the new syncro and sometimes I feel some resistance when shifting. I also have to do 5th because it grinds sometimes oddly enough. The other thing is that it is pretty loud in 2nd. Either the 2nd gear needle bearing is going out or the pre-load need to be reset on this thing.

The only reason I was thinking about a 25 spline setup is that if I can part this trans out I can just get a built unit from jackstransmissions and just pay the core charge. Total is $1600 then. If all the parts from my current trans sold I wouldn't be out a huge amount, but no one is buying anything so I'm going to have to rebuild what I got.

Its funny how "rare" getrag parts are, but when you try to sell them there are no takers.

[AdamVR4]

I have a forged crank ready to go in. Not going to try to make this much power on the cast one.

There are a couple of bolt holes that had the ends popped out from too much RTV when this thing was rebuilt in the past. It's holding up, but not without jb-weld One of the long bolts that goes from the end case through the mid and into the bellhousing didn't torque up very well last time when I swapped out my output shaft.

I think I'm going to also put a new third in. I have the new syncro and sometimes I feel some resistance when shifting. I also have to do 5th because it grinds sometimes oddly enough. The other thing is that it is pretty loud in 2nd. Either the 2nd gear needle bearing is going out or the pre-load need to be reset on this thing.

The only reason I was thinking about a 25 spline setup is that if I can part this trans out I can just get a built unit from jackstransmissions and just pay the core charge. Total is $1600 then. If all the parts from my current trans sold I wouldn't be out a huge amount, but no one is buying anything so I'm going to have to rebuild what I got.

Its funny how "rare" getrag parts are, but when you try to sell them there are no takers.

I'd be very hesitant to throw a new crank into a rotating assembly without balancing. What's your plan there?

LOL! I blew out several of the blind threaded holes in my original trans. It was fine. Damn incompressible RTV also caused me to snap off an oil pan screw in my block. I just repaired that and took the time to clean the RTV out of all the holes.

Heh, I remember when I contemplated selling all my piggybacks in '09 to go EMS. No one wanted an emanage blue, scan master, MAF-T or over clocked 93 ECU. After wheeling and dealing for years, I was, uh, surprised.

*edit* What Getrag parts you selling? I'm always in the market.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

I'd be very hesitant to throw a new crank into a rotating assembly without balancing. What's your plan there?

LOL! I blew out several of the blind threaded holes in my original trans. It was fine. Damn incompressible RTV also caused me to snap off an oil pan screw in my block. I just repaired that and took the time to clean the RTV out of all the holes.

Heh, I remember when I contemplated selling all my piggybacks in '09 to go EMS. No one wanted an emanage blue, scan master, MAF-T or over clocked 93 ECU. After wheeling and dealing for years, I was, uh, surprised.

*edit* What Getrag parts you selling? I'm always in the market.

Yeah I felt that way about the new crank too. Since they are all factory parts (although the 2G pistons weight may have been slightly different) and Mitsu offers only the forged crank nowadays anyway I'm going to cross my fingers and hope the balance is good enough. If I go to the trouble of balancing it I may as well get forged everything.

So, you think I should just fix up my bellhousing? That would be a lot easier. I may be able to helicoil that one bad hole.

here are the parts I may be selling:

http://www.3sgto.org/f62/gi-5-speed-...haft-6299.html

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

We'll we got the engine torn down completely. There is good news and bad news.

I replaced all the bearings 25k ago.

The rods today look really good. Almost no where.

The outside mains were also great.

The center mains were in rough shape. Both showed a lot if copper.

What's worse is the one center main is warped to Hell. It doesn't fit the crank or girdle at all.

The crank is lightly scratched on that one too. This thing was a pull away from spinning.

I guess the crank is bent from detonating over the years.

Pics later

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[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Here are the mains:



you can see the one bearing doesn't fit anymore, it is my custom oval bearings, going to be the next big thing:



If you look closely you can really see how the bearing doesn't fit the crank. Look at the huge gap on the right side:



you can see how the journal is scratched a bit:



I would not run this crank as is. I think it needs 10 thous cut off of it. Looks like this crank has turned over for the last time. Off the the scrap iron pile.

FYI the mains were in worst shape when I replaced them last time, but this is a ton of wear for 25,000 miles IMO.

Believe it or not this engine was as quiet as a mouse and had great oil pressure. I guess this may be another reason why this engine showed knock so easily. Probably really was making some bottom end noise under full load. I never heard anything though.

[NOMIEZVR4]

Good to see the symptoms you were mentioning had a root cause.

[Ninja Performance]

Believe it or not this engine was as quiet as a mouse and had great oil pressure. I guess this may be another reason why this engine showed knock so easily. Probably really was making some bottom end noise under full load. I never heard anything though.

Pounded bearings won't always produce low oil pressure. Especially if they cover oiling holes from proper flow. Good update!

-Chris

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Thanks.

The rear bores were perfect. There was some big chunks of rtv over the oil pickup. I must have use to much last time. May have contributed to my main bearing problems.

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[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

well I just measured out my clutch and it measures out to new spec, so I think I'm going to run this disc until it cannot hold anymore. Seems silly to replace it now when I know if I get to making serious power I'm going to need a 6 puck disc.

Just placed a pretty good sized order with mitsu:

MD997669 GASKET KITENG OVERHAUL UPPER Mitsubishi 0 1 224.51
MF660064 GASKETA/T CASE Mitsubishi 0 8 1.15 (coolant o-rings)
MD620494 O-RINGFUEL REGULATOR Mitsubishi 0 1 6.16 (fuel inlet o-ring)
MD174793 TUBET/C OIL FEEDLH Mitsubishi 0 1 17.6 (turbo oil feed line)
MD161898 GASKETCLUTCH M/CYL Mitsubishi 0 5 0.98 (copper o-rings, only need 4)
MD161898 TUBET/C OIL FEEDRH Mitsubishi 0 1 16.54 (turbo oil feed line)
MD165464 PROTECTORT/C Mitsubishi 0 1 28.16 (front turbo heatshield)
MD165462 COVEREXHAUST MANIFOLD Mitsubishi 0 1 34.72 (front exhaust manifold heat shield)
MD050317 GASKETENG OIL PAN DRAI Mitsubishi 0 1 1.33
MD611222 BOLTSTARTER INR Mitsubishi 0 2 3.26 (starter bolts, mine are aftermarket and wrong)
MF244884 BOLTTIMING BELT TRAIN Mitsubishi 0 1 0.94 (timing tensioner bolt)
MD050316 O-RINGENG OIL FILLER Mitsubishi 0 1 0.97
MB698901 HOSE KITHEATER WATER Mitsubishi 0 1 23.99
MD147861 HOSET/C WATER FEEDRH Mitsubishi 0 1 2.78
MD081048 HOSETHROTTLE BODY WATE Mitsubishi 0 1 5.68
MD068186 HOSET/C WATER RETURNL Mitsubishi 0 1 2.16
MD168962 HOSET/C WATER FEEDLH Mitsubishi 0 1 3.13
MD168962 HOSETHROTTLE BODY WATE Mitsubishi 0 1 3.43
MD168561 HOSET/C WATER RETURNR Mitsubishi 0 1 2.78
MD159216 Knock Sensor
MD161167 Oil switch wiring harness

The rest of these are a couple bellhousing bolts and transfer case bolts I wanted to replace:

BOLTT/F CASE Mitsubishi 0 2 6.25
BOLTT/M CONNECTING Mitsubishi 0 3 1.67
BOLT-CLUTCH HOUSING MOUNTING Dodge 0 1 1.38
BOLTT/M CONNECTING Mitsubishi 0 2 2.1

[TurboSinceBirth]

The motor on my 93 VR-4 when I bought it looked very similar to that only the center mains had spun. It had just done it though because the motor was quiet and oil pressure was great. As far as I can tell it must have hit a bunch of knock on the dyno when the last owner had it, the turbo blew, and he probably knew something else was damaged so he sold the car off to make it someone else's problem unfortunately.