Engine's Out! Winter build has started

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Get a ball hone (if you don't already have one). It is the easiest to use deglazer/finisher and you literally can't mess up the bore with it. Spray WD-40 in the bore after you clean it. Ball hone attaches to a drill and as you spin it in the drill you push and pull it in and out of the bore. It won't take but a handful of passes to get a proper finish.



-Chris

thanks a bunch chris. This looks like the correct size and grit right? Going with sealed power rings.

Amazon.com: Brush Research FLEX-HONE Cylinder Hone, GBD Series, Silicon Carbide Abrasive, 3-3/4" (95 mm) Diameter, 240 Grit Size: Industrial & Scientific

[Ninja Performance]

That will do it.

-Chris

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

awesome

[AdamVR4]

So did you actually have low compression?

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

So did you actually have low compression?

no it was actually great. 150-155 PSI on all and 10% cold leakdown.

I'm a little on the fence about touching it, but you can see some skirt wear on the bore in the #5 cylinder. I'd hate to put this guy all together and have to do it all again in a couple years.

What do you think? I'd really like to pull the pistons and check for evidence of blowby. I always had quite a bit of oil in my rear intake tube from the breather. It had to be coming from somewhere.

I can re-ring this for $100 worth of rings and a $50 tool, but I am leery of touching something that works. I'd love to just take the whole damn thing to Ray or Von's guy, but that seems wasteful since everything is basically in good shape now. I would have to go fully forged to get myself to do that and that seems wasteful too.


Did you guys look at the knock sensor? Doesn't it look like its leaking? Maybe that's why this engine was always noisy. It would have a nice solid tune on it, then randomly you could be driving around town and gas on it and see counts in the 20s with a good afr and conservative timing.

[Ninja Performance]

It's out. I would deglaze/hone it and re ring it. If it were me.

-Chris

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

It's out. I would deglaze/hone it and re ring it. If it were me.

-Chris

thanks, that's my thinking. I'm putting a crank in it anyway, might as well have it all perfect.

Do you think that is a lot of skirt wear? I really haven't had to many blocks apart and when I did they were all 350s that seem to lose their hone pattern after a couple years of hard farm use.

[AdamVR4]

Would honing it even remove the skirt wear marks? If not, I think the answer is clear.

Get yourself some krank vents or a catch can or something to clean up your intake system.

Replace the knock sensor if it's original. No reason to mess around with that. I replaced my knock sensor when I took the heads off and have no regrets at all.

If you peg your DR750's long enough, you're going to cause a conrod fatigue failure. Would you rather do a full build now or do a full build in a couple years when this engine gives up the ghost? If the answer is the latter (and I wouldn't blame you), you should at least put filters in your oil feed lines. I can't imagine strapping such expensive turbos onto an engine without trying to do something to prevent them from being taken out do to a spun bearing (not much you can do if you frag a piston) ...

So after talking myself in circles, if it were my car, I'd try to protect the turbos with forged pistons at the very least, and at that point, you might as well get forged rods ...

This is why I like my cheap turbos.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Would honing it even remove the skirt wear marks? If not, I think the answer is clear.

Get yourself some krank vents or a catch can or something to clean up your intake system.

Replace the knock sensor if it's original. No reason to mess around with that. I replaced my knock sensor when I took the heads off and have no regrets at all.

If you peg your DR750's long enough, you're going to cause a conrod fatigue failure. Would you rather do a full build now or do a full build in a couple years when this engine gives up the ghost? If the answer is the latter (and I wouldn't blame you), you should at least put filters in your oil feed lines. I can't imagine strapping such expensive turbos onto an engine without trying to do something to prevent them from being taken out do to a spun bearing (not much you can do if you frag a piston) ...

So after talking myself in circles, if it were my car, I'd try to protect the turbos with forged pistons at the very least, and at that point, you might as well get forged rods ...

This is why I like my cheap turbos.

We are basically thinking exactly the same. If I hadn't had a cast crank in this engine I probably would've just pulled the heads and not worry about bottom end. I think the hone will clear up the skirt marks. In real life you can see the hone marks through the darker sport, so it really isn't very deep at all.

I do have a catch can and it did help, but it is really a band-aid for something.

I'm not really planning on pegging the turbos at all. I would only try to run 22-23 PSI or so at the most. That should translate to somewhere around 525AWHP AFAIK. I think the engine should live a long time at this level, especially as little as I really drive it. I've always wanted a strong track setup that is exactly as I drive it day to day. I'm just not a race gas kind of guy. If anything I'd go with e85.

I'd really rather build it later just because if I am going to get any engine work its going to be from ray and at that point I may as well buy one of the shortblocks he sometimes has for $2500-3000 complete and just sell mine as a running engine. I'm not going to drop $1500 worth of new rods and pistons and my crank off at just any shop and have them build it thinking it is some minivan engine or a ricer that isn't going to make any real power.

I've seen a lot of full builds blow up on the forums, which is why I'm keeping this basically and sticking with something that has never spun a bearing or given major problems at any time.

I was very close to getting an IPS TD05 kit or dr's dr800 setup, but it didn't really fit my goals. I just want something simple that is going to make another 100-150 AWHP and spool even faster than my 19Ts. There is no other setup at any price that I know of that can do that.

I hear what you are saying about the oil filters, but they are not free from issues either.

1. I asked matt and he basically said the warranty was only good with stock lines. If he wants to post and correct me on this that's ok, but that is what I understood from our pm's.
2. If the filters get clogged and you don't notice you kill the turbos too.
3. As long as you don't destroy any of the wheels the DR750s are not that expensive to rebuild. Yeah if a chunk of piston goes through them you are in for a huge bill, but I don't see what you can do about that. Even EVO IIIs are what $1100 if that happens?

I appreciate everyone's point of view, it is hard for there to be a "right" answer in this case.

It is the same thing with my transmission. It needs a new 2nd gear to shift nice. The problem is the bell housing has some damage. So, I picked up a good case and a good gear with slider, but then if I go that far why not just send the trans off and spend $1000-1500 on it. Then if I'm going to do that I may as well upgrade to a 25 spline shaft. Then I have to get a new 300m shaft and a new spool for my t-case. It really never ends. My billet housings are sitting on the shelf because I can't decide which way I'm going to go with the damn spline count.

good times though, not really worked up about it at all. I'm in no hurry to get it going again, but I want to be running in the spring to have time to shake it down for the track season.

[AdamVR4]

That cast crank would really concern me at 500+ AWHP. Did IPO's testing at 3SX put your mind at ease there?

525 AWHP at ~22-24 psi on pump gas should be totally doable; at least it's doable with my DR headers + E3's.

I'm with you on Ray/Scott engines. I still go back and forth on my long-term goals, but if I ever plan to push beyond 600 AWHP, I'm getting a 4340 crank and letting Ray do the assembly.

What sort of bell housing damage are we talking about? Unless your trans has been eating synchros on a regular basis, I'd stick with the original bell housing and swap in a new synchro. 1st and 2nd gear are so easy I used to pull the trans, make the synchro swap and have the car running again the same day.

Man, if you've got a 300m 18 spline output shaft, why are you beating yourself up about spline count? Stick with the 18 spline and install your billet t-case housing!