Engine's Out! Winter build has started

**Roybatty** · 09-26-2011, 07:37 PM

Originally Posted by Forest Gump

will do, going to try to get it up on the stand tonight, I had to pickup some bolts the right length. I sure got hosed, haha. It was like $14.00 for 4 bolts and some washers the right size.

Surprising how expensive some of the metric bolts r. I usually go to Sears hardware & went w/ grade 8 sae, which has much better prices.

That is a tight looking garage. @ the rate u going, may b done sooner than planned.

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**Chris@Rvengeperformance** · 09-26-2011, 09:19 PM

Originally Posted by green-lantern

Oh damn, not sure how I missed this. Looking forward to following the thread (take lot's of pics

)

Your engine had a lot of miles right? I think I remember you talking about maybe gong with a 4 bolt block? That might have been Aaron. Anyway I'm envious about the DR750's.

yeah it had 161,000 miles. Main thing was I know that the DR750s are not going to be kind to my old cast crank, so I got a forged one. I hope I don't need any machine work done, this will get done really fast if I don't.

Sticking with the 2 bolt though.

**Chris@Rvengeperformance** · 09-26-2011, 11:13 PM

I got it on the stand earlier, gotta drain the coolant out of the block, clean up the garage, and bag some bolts before I tear it down further. I'm also going to break down the cherry picker and pack it up to save some space, won't need it for a while.

Had to drill out one of the engine stands bolts to make it fit right. no big deal though.

seems to be a nice stand, was $70 shipped from amazon and it is a torin. Amazon.com: Torin T24541 1000 lb. Engine Stand: Automotive

I didn't trust the 750lb models, I wanted some overhead.

the 19ts are in perfect shape. pretty much everything I have seen so far is in great condition, hope that trend continues.

**shmoo** · 09-27-2011, 05:16 AM

nice

i'm about to do this. but i'm trying to do it for as cheap as possible.

you wouldn't happen to have an ecu lying around, would you?

_isiah

**IPD** · 09-27-2011, 05:16 AM

Originally Posted by shmoo

nice

i'm about to do this. but i'm trying to do it for as cheap as possible.

you wouldn't happen to have an ecu lying around, would you?

_isiah

should have stuck with the 1g skirts. now it just looks off....

**Ninja Performance** · 09-27-2011, 09:14 AM

DR 750s, nice choice for sure!

-Chris

**green-lantern** · 09-27-2011, 09:40 AM

Originally Posted by Forest Gump

yeah it had 161,000 miles. Main thing was I know that the DR750s are not going to be kind to my old cast crank, so I got a forged one. I hope I don't need any machine work done, this will get done really fast if I don't.

Sticking with the 2 bolt though.

Are you going to have a machine shop go over everything? If it’s too lose and they want to grind and use oversize bearings don’t let them because you can probably use select fit mitsu bearings. My shop wanted to grind my crank but I was able to use the select fit and it came out perfect. The guy acted mad when I told him no don’t grind it I can get bearings that fit, he didn’t believe me. lol He changed his damn tune later when he had to eat his words. Other than that he did a great job.

**Chris@Rvengeperformance** · 09-27-2011, 10:43 AM

Originally Posted by green-lantern

Are you going to have a machine shop go over everything? If it’s too lose and they want to grind and use oversize bearings don’t let them because you can probably use select fit mitsu bearings. My shop wanted to grind my crank but I was able to use the select fit and it came out perfect. The guy acted mad when I told him no don’t grind it I can get bearings that fit, he didn’t believe me. lol He changed his damn tune later when he had to eat his words. Other than that he did a great job.

I don't know yet, it really depends on the condition of the bores. If I can get away with a light hone and just new rings I'll probably not need machine work. I have some bore gauge tools to inspect the bores, I'm going to blueprint them the best I can and see if they are out of round.

The crank I have now is already micro-polished from a machine shop and it has already been checked out to be std. std. The only thing I'm concerned about are the rods. I'm sure they could use resizing, but if I am going to go to that trouble I'm going with the spool/3sx rods.

I'm going to look at the rod bearings and if they are worn evenly I'm going to put the new crank in and plastigauge. If I get between .0015 and .0025 I'm not going to get much more excited about it. It isn't like I'm pushing the limit of anything and I'd rather take my chances on the stock machine work than get it screwed up. Clevites came out to .002 last time when I swapped them out, so unless this crank is a lot smaller I should be okay.

I'm definitely not going to grind the crank. This engine has never spun a bearing, had good compression, and good leak down so I really don't think its going to need too much work.