Theres alot of false info that floats around the internet, especially with something like N/A tuning where not alot of people have solid numbers to go off of. This is a huge bit of good information that most of us can agree puts to rest the "what single upgrade helped your N/A the greatest?" question. I can bet alot of us here would rather do things right then waste our time and money on something that wont matter or will destroy our cars.

Quote Originally Posted by GTwizard View Post
Cams. Before you look at cams, you need to do springs. You are already reaching Valve float. A much more agresive cam grind will cause those heavy stock valves to open at a much grater speed than before and they will want keep going LOL. and on the closing side of the ramp, the rate is so fast, the valve will be slow to react and you could even drop a rocker. Spring will help keep your valve time presice. With out good spring rates your valve trane timing will get really sloppy and at an RPM range much less than what you are running now.. Extream duration cams need high compression. lower comp motor need high lift. That was an issue I had last year. I was trying to run endurance racing cams, but did not have the compression todo so. My valve trane will handle any and all cam grinds and at RPMs I could most likely never reach. But I did this so I could test mutiple crazy ass grinds. You should do well with the cams that I run. HKS 272s intake and exhaust. But, with out springs to back it up, your waisting your time. I also run extreem light weight valves to insure no valve trane slop at all. Springs and Valves are not that expensive. It is a good port and polish that runs into time and money. You should also remember that the shape of the valves has a lot to do with the amount of air that can get around them. It will be your heads that make real power. After we had our heads done, even our stock cams felt huge. Low end responce was nuts and would rev till the fuel shut down.. Did not go with better cams untill we had a set up that could take advantage of more lift and more duration. You might even consider VR4heads as they flow a little better. For the power you are looking for, it time to cosider your next step as completing a package. Heads, cams, valves and spring need to be done all at once. To try and do this in a peace meal fastion or one step at a time could just lessen the power you already have. Or at least be a disapointment.
To pose a new question to everyone, ive been looking into fuel control. From what I can tell a VR4 pump with the stock NA injectors should hold ground, at most maybe some of us might need stock vr4 injectors, but what about fuel control?

As my car is my daily driver i've been looking into the SAFCII as it has 2 tunes for low and high throttle. My gas mileage right now is no where near what id like it to be, so I figure thats where the low throttle tune comes in, as I can lean the mixture out as much as possible up until say, 3500 rpsm which i barely reach at 5th gear cruising on the highway. Then I assume the high throttle value we want to tune for 14.7 afr, or do we want to go as lean as possible without knock and timing changes? What happens in the "middle" throttle? Was my gas mileage assumption correct? Also, is exhaust gas temp needed if a good wideband is being used?

I feel like alot of people know these answers from tuning experience, so given that I have none, id figured id ask