Destroying the dogma: lightweight crankpulleys

[mb7050]

Just to let you know this is what I got from ati

"We have built custom dampers for that engine pricing cost starts off at 750.00"

"Just let me know I will send you out an invoice number and we will take a 250.00 engineering fee to get the ball rolling. The fee is non refundable and will be applied to the purchase of the damper. "



hmm. tempting need some time to think...

anyone know other companies that can make quality dampers ?

[GTwizard]

Don, as I mentioned before, it only needs to stay at the same RPM for ~.05 seconds for the harmonics to fully develop. Even during a 1st gear pull, a crank develops harmonics as the tach sweeps up, just as bad.

You are correct, But, Once an engine is loaded with drive trane resistence the chances of devistating hormonics begin to dwindle. I would never run a non dampener on a street car for sure. But for my race car I wish to have an under drive and getting a fluid damper in our configuration is close to nill. Been doing this 30 years and never lost a crank while racing. I also run a cast crank that is a lot more forgiving than what I would call a hard crank. Cast will flex rather than brake. I am also NA wich helped with the softer crank Choice. I have many times removed non-dampeners from customers cars as the risk is just to high and do not wish to risk them loosing a crank. I would never recomend a non-dampener to any one. But for me, and what I am doing with the car and the RPM range in wich I play. My biggest risk is under no load, between gears while shifting. But for me, and for now, I roll the dice. I have seen iceman_ii split 2 cranks and each time he was not running a damper and was not pushing the car at the time it broke. He now runs a dampener. LOL. I am more afraid of snapping a rod than bustin crank. Once I go 12.5 to 1s I may run a forged crank and will most likely build my own fluid damper with an under drive set up. This is a great thread as I have seen so many other say the damper have no place on our cars and that is just wrong. Just because I have lost my mind as have choicen to run with out, is no reason any one else should. In most all cases it is not a good idea to run with out a dampener.

[hotGTO]

I have a lightweight crank pully that was installed by a previous owner and I want to swap in a factory dampener, it's still 30k away from the next maintenance... Is it any easier to change it out if I'm not doing a whole service or am I stuck with all the same amount of labor just for the pulley?

[mb7050]

fisher consepts they dont make pulleys anymore ?

http://www.3si.org/forum/f25/custom-...pulley-195882/

http://www.3si.org/forum/f42/harmoni...isited-175900/

[DrkZide]

Screw it, I'm keeping my Lightweight UDP











or drop in an LS1 :P

[mb7050]

Screw it, I'm keeping my Lightweight UDP

,until the bearing spins

I also contacted pitroadm will see what they offer...

[pos-vr4]

this
I Dont´t want oem pulley for my engine
I Don't want an underdrive pulley
I Don't want a pulley w/o a harmonic damper
I Don't care if the pulley is heavier or lighter.
I want superior damping for my engine !

I am not going to hit autobahn with the undampened pulley that I currently have.

to work properly it WILL have to be heavier, that is a good thing. this is the most cost effective option: http://www.bhjdynamics.com/

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

lol this discussion will not die no matter what.

6 years and 2 cars later (162K one one , 155K on my tt, original engines in both) I'm still running a UDP and without worry.

They have a place for lowish power cars and you BPU guys can quit worrying.

[mb7050]

it depends I drive at autobahn every once in a while 150mph + constantly for hours.. my older 1995 3000gt spun bearing and that was shortly after i installed non dampned pulley not saying it caused it but....

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

lol not going to argue with you, I'm sure driving 150 MPH constantly had nothing to do with engine failure on a 10+ year old car.