My lcdboostcontroller fun

[green-lantern]

how awesome it has been to deal with Antero on this whole deal.... He was all about making this happen for no reason other than making something cool, and the possibility of expanding the capabilities of his design. He didn't charge me a dime extra to build the code, only for the materials used.(And I did offer, and fully expected to have to pay for his time..)

Just saw this, pretty damn cool! and yeah Antero is great. He did some wiring for me (no charge)

[Unlogic]

RealMcCoy, are you still running this setup?

[RealMcCoy]

Yes I am... hasn't seen much use lately as my car is out of commission currently, patiently waiting for me to install it's new turbos... but hopefully soon we'll get put it to a real test... working on a three nozzle setup for the water/meth that I'm pretty confident won't have any distribution issues.

[Unlogic]

Thats very interesting, would you mind sharing some details of you electrical setup?

I'm looking into building a similar setup but the 31hz limitation means that very few off the shelf PWM fuel pump controllers seem to be compatible.

[BlackStealth]

Thats very interesting, would you mind sharing some details of you electrical setup?

I'm looking into building a similar setup but the 31hz limitation means that very few off the shelf PWM fuel pump controllers seem to be compatible.

Unlogic, since you're not using a boost solenoid, I can change the 31hz to whatever number you need. 31Hz came from the fact boost solenoid like to operate at this frequency. FYI, the alchy PWM and boost solenoid PWM both share the same timer, that is why they're linked together.

[Unlogic]

That sounds great Antero, it makes things much simpler.

If you can change the frequency to be inside the 60 - 330Hz range it means we should be able to use a Ford/VDO pump driver module. It has Ford Part number 3W 83-9D372-AB, VDO number A2C53005489 and comes off a Range Rover.

It has a 6 pin connector which pinsout as follows:

1) 12v output to fuel pump
2) 0v return (low side PWM) from pump
3) pump drive signal from eng ecu, 60 to 330Hz, drive with open collector low side drive, 0 to 50% duty is 0 to 100% pump duty
4) not used
5) 12V power feed, ignition switched
6) 0v chassis ground

Found that information in this thread: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/t...t=916550&i=240

The only piece of information missing is the input voltage required for the pump drive signal.

[Unlogic]

Using this Ford fuel pump driver module from a F150 truck seems like it could work too.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-590-00.../dp/B005JJ0D22

http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemde...SEName=590-001

There is a good thread about it here:

http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=59992

The only downside is that it requires a 12v PWM signal.

[BlackStealth]

I have a better suggestion, build your own MOSFET controller for $2.

Digikey parts list:
1 x IRLB8743PBF-ND (MOSFET, rated for 78 Amps)
1 x 1MWCT-ND (1 Mega ohm resistor)
1 x 1N4004DICT-ND (Diode)

Because it is so cheap, you might want to build another as a backup.

I'll draw the schematic diagram later tonight. This MOSFET has proven to be reliable for my 3D printer, running hours at a time.

[Unlogic]

That sounds great!

I've been doing some research on water/meth injection controllers and the LCDBC has the potential to match some of the more expensive ones on the market.

Aquamist seems to be the brand to beat and their HFS-3/4 controller has the ability to start injection at a given pressure and base the amount of water injected on the injector duty cycle.

Given that the LCDBC already has the option to monitor the IDC I'm sure you'd have no problem matching that functionality.

[BlackStealth]

Instead of Injector Duty Cycle, Injector pulse width would be better I would think. IDC requires two pieces of information from the ECU (Injector pulse & RPM) and IDC is known to be slightly incorrect at times (for technical reasons I'll leave out). I can do this programming, but I won't have time to do it immediately, maybe in a few days I can do it.

Here's the diagram for the 3 parts. I drew the pin out info for the MOSFET, also keep in mind you need to take static electricity precautions so you don't ruin the MOSFET during assembly.

The diode is on backwards on purpose. When the MOSFET disconnects ground from the pump, the motor's coils will generate a back EMF voltage, and this diode will safely dissipate this excess energy extending the life of electronics and a more stable output from the motor.

The 1 Megaohm resistor is on there to prevent an accidental turn-on.

I believe the MOSFET should stay "cool enough" ie. below 50C, if not add a heat sink to it.