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Thread: Forged bottom end help/advice needed

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    Forged bottom end help/advice needed

    Hi guys,
    as some of you know I'm rebuilding my vr4 after a bad damage at the track.
    The actual block is junk:
    1 broken piston,
    (forged) crank damage checked at a shop and crank NOT reusable
    1 spun rod..

    OPTION 1 :
    - IPS turned forged crank with bearing kit
    - 1 new stock rod
    - 92mm forged pistons

    OPTION 2:
    - New forged crank
    - New stock bearings
    - 3sx forged rods
    - 92mm forged pistons

    The turbos on the car will be a pair of billet DR650.

    I can do option 2 with a lot more effort for my budget..
    The thing I'd like to know is about the rods.. I know from Steve at Pampena M. that the stockers are fine for dr650 power but I would have 1 new and 5 with 80k miles on them.

    What to do for a can not daily driven (just 2K miles/year) with dr650 on pump + meth?
    Current mods: 13G (stock for my european 3S) - custom dual exhaust - 560 injectors (M20 fuel)- Hotwired 255 Walbro - S-AFC II - Magnecor wires - XTD stage III clutch - BCPR7ES plugs - Kn filter - Blitz DSBC- 19" OZ Superleggera wheels with 225/40 - D2 coilovers - . Gauges: Oil press, oil temp, boost, water temp, front and rear egt, a/f meter, ac complete delete

  2. #2
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    PM sent.

  3. #3
    Forum User verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) thor'svr4's Avatar
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    i had a similar issue 2 summers ago. I spun a rod bearing and debated all the possible options for a rebuild. I ended up going with a fully forged bottom end and 8.5:1 pistons. In hindsight I couldn’t be happier knowing that the bottom end should be able to take anything my 13T’s, or any other turbo I’ll ever run, can throw at it. The only thing I recommend is that you do NOT get the 8.5:1 pistons. If I could do it all over again I would have stayed with the stock compression ratio.

    18psi w/ 8:1 compression ratio dynoed at 418awhp/408awtq
    16psi w/ 8.5:1 compression ratio dynoed at 400awhp/400awtq

    I did gain a noticeable amount of low end tq with the higher compression ratio but the con was that I lost power up top. With 18psi and the stock 8:1 pistons I was NOT limited by pre-detonation. I simply didn’t turn up the boost any more because I was worried about the condition of the stock 155,000 mile internals. Hence the car had more power left in it just waiting to be unleashed. However with the 8.5:1 pistons i AM limited to 16psi because of pre-detonation.

    since both your options include forged pistons my only recommendation is that you keep the stock compression.
    the basic go fast bits...
    forged short block, Billet DR1000's, 680cc injectors, meth inj, FMIC, MAFT, Apexi Neo, hotwired 255lph fuel pump.

    Tuned by Ray Pampena

    Just a fun Daily Driver.

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    Agree completely. Build the short block with good components and you'll only build it once.

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to BaadVR4 For This Useful Post:

    IPD

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    Now with more poop-smear Not Verified Feedback Score 8 (100%) IPD's Avatar
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    milt sums up my philosophy on my upcoming build perfectly.

  7. #6
    One fix at a time verified Feedback Score 4 (100%) TurboSinceBirth's Avatar
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    I would upgrade what you can while it's apart. If not let me know as I have a set of stock rods/pistons that I could sell to you for cheap so you'll have a complete set of rods.
    95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.

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