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Thread: 100 buxs to whoever gets my car running EMS

  1. #1

    100 buxs to whoever gets my car running EMS

    I'm completely frustrated with my car at this point, I have a EMS and am having a hard time starting the car. I initally had used a calibration off this link

    Byron's 3000GT VR4 AEM tuning, maps and info
    (stock vr4 setup)

    It fired up the first time with no issue at all, I shut it off after 3 minutes, and took me 3 days to get it started again. I let it run next time for 20 mins and it was all gravy, it started up again with no issues. I come out the next day and it wont start again
    I thought it might be a mechanical issue, I tried replacing the start with a brand new one NOTHING!!!! I didnt have this issue on the stock ecu btw. Its got to be a EMS issue. 100 buxs paypaled to whoever gets this car a decent calibration file that I can fire up the car with every time without having to sacrifice a small dog. My mods are as follows

    Stock 3.0
    560cc injectors
    walbro 255 hot wired
    3sx cam adjustable cam gears +1 intake -3 exhaust
    Light weight pulley
    15g turbos
    SS exhaust

  2. #2
    You'll be very disappointed to know the AEM EMS does not start like an OEM ECU on our cars. The AEM EMS uses a different technique for starting our car than stock ECU, because it heavily depends on the crank(?) signal. Our crank trigger wheel only has one or two holes, I forget the exact number, but it's far less than other car manufactures such as Honda which have several more holes. A fix to this is to modify the crank trigger wheel with more holes so the AEM EMS can sync faster. AEM understands this problems and has made special replacement crank trigger replacement wheels for Nissan for example, so it can sync, and then start normally. Unfortunately, AEM does not offer a replacement crank trigger wheel for our cars.

    After I fully understood why the AEM EMS could never start as good as OEM ECU, I immediately dumped my AEM EMS after wasting 2 months of daily tuning/tweaking. Today, I'm using a flashable 99 ECU conversion, and I'm much happier going this route.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by BlackStealth View Post
    You'll be very disappointed to know the AEM EMS does not start like an OEM ECU on our cars. The AEM EMS uses a different technique for starting our car than stock ECU, because it heavily depends on the crank(?) signal. Our crank trigger wheel only has one or two holes, I forget the exact number, but it's far less than other car manufactures such as Honda which have several more holes. A fix to this is to modify the crank trigger wheel with more holes so the AEM EMS can sync faster. AEM understands this problems and has made special replacement crank trigger replacement wheels for Nissan for example, so it can sync, and then start normally. Unfortunately, AEM does not offer a replacement crank trigger wheel for our cars.

    After I fully understood why the AEM EMS could never start as good as OEM ECU, I immediately dumped my AEM EMS after wasting 2 months of daily tuning/tweaking. Today, I'm using a flashable 99 ECU conversion, and I'm much happier going this route.
    Ughhhh :*( seems like a 99 ecu conversion is a pain in the ass lol. Can you do as much with the 99 ecu as the ems? Also there has been people running the EMS for yrs now and their cars run great so its definitely has to be solved.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by jspecmike View Post
    Ughhhh :*( seems like a 99 ecu conversion is a pain in the ass lol. Can you do as much with the 99 ecu as the ems? Also there has been people running the EMS for yrs now and their cars run great so its definitely has to be solved.
    For me, it's the opposite experience. AEM EMS is a pain when it comes to our platform, on other platforms it works better. When I had the AEM EMS, about 95% of the time I could get it started on the first crank (2-8 seconds). I run a semi-stock car, so I was disappointed when the AEM EMS did not have EGR or Evap setup in the stock base map. To me, the AEM EMS is better suited for track cars, not daily drivers.

    My 99 ECU conversion was easy, one adapter harness and one 99 ECU and done. Reflashing my software changes took less than 30 seconds, I adjusted for the larger 550cc injectors, increase fuel-cut by 50%, turned off the missing post-cat O2 sensors and I was done. You can tweak the fuel table, timing table, idle rpm, etc.

  5. #5
    Do you have a link to this 99 conversion? I'm semi interested, I dont want to dump the EMS but I would like to try this 99 conversion. Finding a 99 ecu has to be a BITCH though and expensive lol.

  6. #6
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    You need to have someone that knows tuning the AEM do your car. You cannot take a map from one car and have it work 100% correctly for another. Every car is unique in it's tune needs.

    It's probably (possibly,,,is my guess anyway from your description) the temperature curve is way off. Starting and idle is the hardest (or most time consuming) of a good tune. And yes it is possible to get it to start close to stock. Besides the aCcel and dCcel settings to get any stumble at idle there is the warm up enrichment curve. Set the curve when bone cold. Engine needs more fuel when cold.

    It takes some trial/error even for experienced tuners to get it just right. But with a little adjusting you can get it to where it starts up reasonably well and fairly quickly. But with some basic effort you should be able to get it dialed in a bit better on that curve.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by cjbyron View Post
    You need to have someone that knows tuning the AEM do your car. You cannot take a map from one car and have it work 100% correctly for another. Every car is unique in it's tune needs.

    It's probably (possibly,,,is my guess anyway from your description) the temperature curve is way off. Starting and idle is the hardest (or most time consuming) of a good tune. And yes it is possible to get it to start close to stock. Besides the aCcel and dCcel settings to get any stumble at idle there is the warm up enrichment curve. Set the curve when bone cold. Engine needs more fuel when cold.

    It takes some trial/error even for experienced tuners to get it just right. But with a little adjusting you can get it to where it starts up reasonably well and fairly quickly. But with some basic effort you should be able to get it dialed in a bit better on that curve.
    Ahhhh, your the one I downloaded the cal file from lol. So far my car has only started with yours lol. I was curious if your still around on the 3s platform.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by jspecmike View Post
    Do you have a link to this 99 conversion? I'm semi interested, I dont want to dump the EMS but I would like to try this 99 conversion. Finding a 99 ecu has to be a BITCH though and expensive lol.
    Monochrome has posted details on tuning the 99 ECU. I paid $500 for my 99 3000GT VR4 ECU, but the exciting part is that the much cheaper 99 3000GT SL ECU can be also used if you don't need the high/low fuel pump relay control. Of course you could add in the missing components (resistors, capacitors, diodes) and you can convert your SL ECU into a VR4 ECU.

    But since you already have the AEM EMS, you might as well put time into it that first to give it a fair chance.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by BlackStealth View Post
    Monochrome has posted details on tuning the 99 ECU. I paid $500 for my 99 3000GT VR4 ECU, but the exciting part is that the much cheaper 99 3000GT SL ECU can be also used if you don't need the high/low fuel pump relay control. Of course you could add in the missing components (resistors, capacitors, diodes) and you can convert your SL ECU into a VR4 ECU.

    But since you already have the AEM EMS, you might as well put time into it that first to give it a fair chance.
    yea, your right if I didn't have a EMS I would look into it, but I'm still very interested in learning the EMS, and more people are currently running it.

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