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Thread: Overheating with TD05 turbochargers

  1. #21
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    The trouble is that the Flexolite fans dont move anywhere near as much air as the standard OEM fans, if you were to re-fit the less prety OEM fans & radiator you would probably find that you have no cooling issues at all.
    Jeff

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    With my kit I ran two AC fans. Its also important to have the air dam underneath to help channel the air. Ducting is pretty important, and having your fans run on high helps more.

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    i cannot emphasize enough what a good, vented hood will do for bay temps. living in GA (same town as baadvr4) i can see the heat escapting from my hood vents at each stop.

    to me, ducting is a last-ditch solution. get a good vented hood. use OEM fans & a 2" radiator. upgrade your oil cooler (and if applicable trans cooler). wire the fans to be "always on".

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    Which rad and hood do you use?

    André

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    Quote Originally Posted by IPD View Post
    i cannot emphasize enough what a good, vented hood will do for bay temps. living in GA (same town as baadvr4) i can see the heat escapting from my hood vents at each stop.

    to me, ducting is a last-ditch solution. get a good vented hood. use OEM fans & a 2" radiator. upgrade your oil cooler (and if applicable trans cooler). wire the fans to be "always on".
    That would be annoying, fans always on....

    Is the radiator new? Could it possibly be dirty inside? That would really reduce effectiveness.

    Thats crazy just driving around your temps arent dropping. I mean, just driving regularly your car isnt making any more horsepower (heat) than mine and EGT's are probably similar, so there shouldnt be an issue with the hot exhaust heating up components. Plus you said in other climates you didnt have the problem. Its not like you are racing it.
    If I sit and idle it takes like 10 minutes, i.e. freakin forever, for the fans to turn on, if I go drive around temps drop like 40-50 degrees..... Is your shrouding intact? plugged up intercooler? Maybe there is junk in between the IC/fan condenser/radiator.
    Last edited by R/T93; 05-03-2012 at 08:32 AM.

  6. #26
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    Thanks for all of the responses. The temperatures seem to hold fine with the a/c off with temps in the 70s and 80s(fluctuates between 190 and 205 according to innovate G3 gauge). I haven't been able to test the car in 100 heat yet, which I will be able to sometime this summer. I'm just trying to make preparations as much as possible. Right now I have a viper hood. I just dropped the car off at a body shop yesterday for it to get painted and adjusted (had it for 6 years and just now getting around to it, crazy...), and I've heard the 2" cowl induction messes with the engine pulling in air through the radiator due to the pressure differences. I'm considering having the body shop to put a fiberglass lip in the back to seal off that airflow. I may see if they can add the lip with leaving a little bit open on the sides for heat to escape. Any thoughts on this?

    My fans are wired on an aftermarket temperature switch which turns them on at around 180 degrees, or anytime the air is turned on in the car. I don't have an OEM radiator right now, and would prefer not to have to buy a new one. There has got to be 1 slim fan that works very good.

    I have two stock A/C fans sitting in the garage, but one of them won't fit due to the 2" radiator and the 3SX kit (the exhaust port to the external wastegates is in the way). The best solution I can come up with right now is to have to this right now is a stock a/c fan on the passenger side and a flex-a-lite low profile fan on the driver's side. The flex-a-lite BARELY fits, too. Are there any other fans that I may be able to fit there that will outflow the flex-a-lite. I believe each fan is rated 1250 cfm.

    I have an aftermarket oil cooler mounted in the stock oil cooler location. I have two transmission coolers. One is on the opposite side of the oil cooler and is a stacked plate design. The other is sitting between the FMIC and condensor and is a tube and fine design which I placed to get airflow from the fans. I may try to mount a fan to the stack plate cooler on the side and remove the tube and fine to have one less heat exchanger in the way.

    I don't have any ducting, but I do have all my plastic on underneath the car. I will try to make some ducting this summer. I am not exactly the best at custom fabrication, so does anyone have any tips on material I should try using to make ducting? I am really surprised that no one has come up with some sort of ducting kit for FMIC guys.
    Last edited by PaulL; 05-03-2012 at 09:08 AM.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Permanent grin View Post
    Which rad and hood do you use?

    André
    me? 2" 3sx single-pass & a scoote 2 (i.e. the hood j-fast has empirically demonstrated to have the best cooling abilities out of any currently available hoods).

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    Ceramic coating does help, no matter what people may say about it. If you get a quality coating it will last as long as the car. Im running the jet hot 2000 degree stuff.

  9. #29
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    Vented hood FTW. I used a gt500 hood extractor vent in stock hood placed behind radiator directly above front header. Definitely vents/extracts air. May do some before and after testing this summer by taping up vent and doing a logged pull and then the same with vent un-taped.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

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  11. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streamln1 View Post
    Ceramic coating does help, no matter what people may say about it. If you get a quality coating it will last as long as the car. Im running the jet hot 2000 degree stuff.
    agreed....but it can also potentially make your exhaust note louder--which means you might just want to have a cat in there even MORE.

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