engine cyl walls / rust question

[TajMan]

I have a 150K mile SOHC montero engine apart, and just at that mileage oil buildup can be BAD.
On the old set of pistons I meticulously cleaned up by hand, I'd say 95% of the oil-holes around piston rings were clogged shut. Typical of most high-mile engines, the amount of 'permanent' buildup on the pistons/block/valves/etc old hardened oil residue can be horrible.
I say permanent in a sense of no 'engine clean' wonder product or anything you'll add into your oil will ever clean completely off.
That engine is going together with the crankshaft from my old 275K+ mile Stealth, crank is good and machine shop just polished. They also pressed 6 Stealth rods onto 6 Montero pistons for me. New STD rings and bearings.
I mean to get to the point, I have some experience with engine semi-rebuilds. The surgical care required in assembly, and the quick cleaning/oil changes that should occur a few times quickly after the newish engine runs.

This particular '91 Talon being fixed has 98K original miles.
1K miles ago, I did some work. Stock rods were modified to fit new 2G nippon racing pistons. New STD size rod bearings & piston rings.
The recent failure, was caused by a coolant hose that sprung a leak. I ran empty and hot extra long- radiator fan issue I was still dealing with, once its THAT hot and you realize you know its too late.

Anyway I work with the ACTUAL world and what I can judge while its being inspected, I'll see if I can get it and keep it running good this time..

[BaadVR4]

None of this has anything to do with the original question or the original issue of how best to address rust on one of the cylinder walls. Since you've suggested the engine was overheated badly and for an extended period of time, I'd be concerned about warping. And not just the heads (although heads warp more often than other components).

If you work with the "ACTUAL" world and what you can judge while it's being inspected, why are you so willing to ignore some very REAL WORLD possibilities that could have very expensive REAL WORLD consequences? And why would you not simply disassemble the engine and have EVERYTHING inspected? With the overheating you describe, I wouldn't be surprised if the engine block was warped, particularly the cylinder bores which were overheated the most severely.

I don't have a horse in this race. It's YOUR engine, YOUR money and YOUR car that are at risk. Fix your car anyway you deem appropriate. You asked for opinions/advice. You got opinions and advice. If you don't like those opinions/that advice, you are perfectly free to ignore them and proceed however you wish. But what has been suggested to you by more than one forum member is that your proposed methods are likely to produce results which are less than satisfactory. By choosing to attack the advice giver's competency/intentions, all you achieve is alienating folks, which will cause them to not give you any more advice or opinions.
Your last post seems to be an effort to validate your skills/competency. Nobody ever questioned those traits. Nor did anyone question what success you may have had on any given repair/modification in the past.

Good luck with your repairs. Just my 1.5 cents worth.

I have a 150K mile SOHC montero engine apart, and just at that mileage oil buildup can be BAD.
On the old set of pistons I meticulously cleaned up by hand, I'd say 95% of the oil-holes around piston rings were clogged shut. Typical of most high-mile engines, the amount of 'permanent' buildup on the pistons/block/valves/etc old hardened oil residue can be horrible.
I say permanent in a sense of no 'engine clean' wonder product or anything you'll add into your oil will ever clean completely off.
That engine is going together with the crankshaft from my old 275K+ mile Stealth, crank is good and machine shop just polished. They also pressed 6 Stealth rods onto 6 Montero pistons for me. New STD rings and bearings.
I mean to get to the point, I have some experience with engine semi-rebuilds. The surgical care required in assembly, and the quick cleaning/oil changes that should occur a few times quickly after the newish engine runs.

This particular '91 Talon being fixed has 98K original miles.
1K miles ago, I did some work. Stock rods were modified to fit new 2G nippon racing pistons. New STD size rod bearings & piston rings.
The recent failure, was caused by a coolant hose that sprung a leak. I ran empty and hot extra long- radiator fan issue I was still dealing with, once its THAT hot and you realize you know its too late.

Anyway I work with the ACTUAL world and what I can judge while its being inspected, I'll see if I can get it and keep it running good this time..

[BaadVR4]

One more question. I'm just curious why you would put a picture of a horribly rusted engine in a "help" thread, ask a question about how to sand a cylinder bore after scraping off the surface rust and then get upset when people get the idea that the picture is the engine in question? Maybe if you'd posted a pic of the actual engine you wanted advice about you would have received different responses?

[green-lantern]

hey hey not trying to be a dick, just wanted people to understand the real story, everyone jumping on the bandwagon of 'oh that pic is bad, you need a hone'

I understood your 1st post (even though it was hard to do, all over the place and didn't need the pic) but if you had rain water into the intake (like that engine but not as bad) I still wouldn't use it without disassembling the engine and honing the cylinders. I sure as hell wouldn't use sandpaper and get grit down in between the cylinder walls and into the rings.

[GTOJOE]

Only way to avoid grit falling between the cylinder walls and rings is to spin the engine upsidedown and a stand and sand it that way so all debris would be falling away from it. Still sounds easier to just pull it down properly.

[green-lantern]

Only way to avoid grit falling between the cylinder walls and rings is to spin the engine upsidedown and a stand and sand it that way so all debris would be falling away from it. Still sounds easier to just pull it down properly.

Unless there is some kind of lube in there to trap the sand. lol


If you have it to that point why not pull the pistons?

[TajMan]

lol I'm sorry for my bad thread


... Yeah at this point I believe I'm probably going to pull out my whole short-block and pull out pistons. I'll get a hone.
Main reason is the work required to pull the oil pan in the car... I might as well pull the whole block and install a stage 3 clutch kit also.

The whole point of a thread in the first place was to discern what was better at removing LIGHT surface rust from cyl walls, 1,000 - 1,500 grit or emery cloth.