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Thread: Help Passing Emissions Tomorrow

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackStealth View Post
    The AEM AFPR comes with a few different sized internal parts. These parts regulate how much fuel is returned to the tank, I think the one you have in your AFPR needs to be switched out for the next larger size. The reason I say this is because your low fuel trim is indicating rich, and you're probably overrunning the FPR slightly.
    Awesome! The one installed is indeed the smallest one, looks like I'll try out the medium sized (.150") one instead.

    The manual sold with the FPR says to remove it before swapping the orifice; is it safe to swap these out with the FPR still installed or should I stop being lazy?

    On another note - anybody know where I can get a decent torque wrench that reads in-lbs (10) and is cheap in cost? I don't have one and it looks like I'll need one for this job (and can't think of another job I'll ever need it for).
    Last edited by Rom3BreaK; 08-18-2011 at 10:06 PM.
    . 1992 VR4 - Java Black Pearl paint (2004 STI) with combo '92/'96/'99 custom front end .
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  2. #12
    I think you will be fine as long as there's no fuel pressure sending parts everywhere, another words, get the fuel pressure to zero before disassembling it.

    I took my AEM FPR apart before, just note the "tightness" of the screws as you disassemble, as that's probably the 10lbs of torque you need.

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    I swapped out the orifice for the next larger one on Saturday, now just trying to get my trims dialed in so I'll report back when they're as good as can be. Something odd that's happening after I did this work is now my car holds fuel pressure for MUCH longer than it did previously. Now after a half hour + I still have around 20psi of pressure whereas before it would drop to near zero in less than two minutes of turning the car off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EvanH View Post
    I dont know how true it is, but I know at autozone, there is a bottle of fuel additive. It states it will guarantee you passing emissions. Something like CRC or something.

    And IIRC, sitting and idling is the best way to heat the cat up. Driving cools it off. So sit and give it a little extra gas to heat it more?
    Theres a bottle with a 3000GT on it.

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    ECU still seems to be figuring out the fuel trims. Low is ranging from 82-89, mid is staying solid at 86.7, high is ranging from 112.5 to 111. Looking better but things still seem off...

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    Just thought I'd offer an update. I ended up passing emissions on my 3rd try. After having switched out for the next larger orifice, my LFT's had much less of a tendency to stay maxed out rich, but still lingered around the same numbers. My final trick? Rather than adjusting the base idle, I simply turned on the AC. This of course had a similar effect making it idle higher and I passed with around 212 HC IIRC.

  8. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Rom3BreaK View Post
    Rather than adjusting the base idle, I simply turned on the AC. This of course had a similar effect making it idle higher and I passed with around 212 HC IIRC.
    My emission testing place turned off my A/C, that's why I didn't suggest that as an option.

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    haha yeah I knew it was a bit of a risk. I was feeling 50/50 on the different orifice doing the trick so I figured it was worth a shot. I made sure to turn off any vents that would blow on someone in the driver seat

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    High Knock Counts...

    Driving around last night logging, encountered some high knock counts which have been plaguing me. I don't always get these counts when I step on it, but sometimes I do. ~21 counts doesn't make me feel safe. If you guys could take a peek for me and clue me in on what may be going on I'd really appreciate it. I have new O2 sensors, hot wired fuel pump, AEM FPR, vac redux. Boost controller is zeroed out (waste gate pressure)!! I have a feeling that what ever is wrong helped contribute to my emissions issues. I think my O2's aren't cycling exactly how they should be but no sure what to do about that (think its a symptom not a cause). I tested for fuel leaks with UV dye and everything seems good.


    I attached a zipped file which should open fine in an excel sheet. I tried to organize data for easy viewing, and highlighted high knock areas of concern.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    • File Type: zip 9.zip (40.0 KB, 1 views)
    Last edited by Rom3BreaK; 09-24-2011 at 11:00 AM.

  11. #20
    Are you using a fuel controller? Perhaps you're knocking because of timing induced knock (side effect from piggyback).

    p.s. Which datalogger are you using to collect data?

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