i'm going with a hallman. if you need 1 set setting, you can go with ninja's or make your own. if you're a geek and a tweaker, you might appreciate an EBC better. for ease of use and sheer simplicity, MBC makes the most sense, imho. if it start's messing up, you can fix them pretty easily. they'r ealso very cheap.
also imho, if you're in the market for EBC, you're probably also in the market for AEM; which makes the matter simple.
Hmmm..... I use a Profec E-01 ebc, yest it is expensive and fancy but this is not necessarily a good thing. There are far too many gain, duty rate etc etc that need to be set and it can really get frustrating. I have yet to properly set it up, but it really does get annoying. However on the pro side of things, it has a nice big graphical lcd screen and a seperate remote to control everything. And i can set the boost on the fly to whatever I want, it also has a button for overtake boost, I have this set to maximum boost.
It's more fun to pull over in random parking lots, pop the hood for 5 seconds, then drive away. So much fun.
If I go for any setup it either has to be adjustable from the cabin [ie Hallman pro] or can have multiple boost settings. Ray Hall said if I use a manual boost controller he just needs to tune it at the max boost I want then it will run fine for anything below that. So the easiest option might be to go for the TurboXS high performance dual stage and have one set for max and one for daily driving. If I want to change them I can pop the bonnet. I don't think I need quad boost settings.
BlackStealth - would your unit run as a stand alone boost controller without pairing with the ECU?
1990 JDM GTO TT with Vi-PEC plug-in V44 EMS, TD04-13T's, 3SX Downpipe, MP Hi-flow cat, ARC SMIC's, Aeromotive Stealth 340LPH pump, Fuelab 515 FPR, Ninja Performance 75amp hotwire kit, oohnoo fuel loop & rail adapters, Nylon braided ethanol fuel line, NGK AFX Wideband, K&N FIPK, Iridium plugs, HKS Twin Power DLI, Turbo XS racing BOV, 3SX poly mounts, Custom 280km/h speedo.
Waiting install
Injector Dynamics 725cc Injectors.
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Blitz SBC Id III
A very good EBC, love mine.
93 R/T - Modded, Full Suspension, Full Exhaust, Quaife Diff, Turbo brakes, Alpine/Boston Sound One of 25
98 VR-4 - Billet 13t's, Downpipe, Blitz EBC, Ohlins R/T coil overs, SCE center differential, SCE oil pan, Pampena braced trans, TEC Rear Strut Bar, Custom Front Strut Bar, Camber Arms, Alum Driveshaft, 2" Koyo, Maximal oil cooler, SAFC2, Defi Gauges, RC 550's, Supra Pump, Skillard Splitter, Hardpipes, XYZ 14" front brakes/Carbotech, 255 Dunlop Z2's, AMR 18x9's, Alpine/Infinity/JL Sound. One of 13
3SNG15 Best overall
"I explode 1 piece rotors" -- ABM --
Runs 12's (12.98's!!!!!!)
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Based on the fact that the OP wants a controller for street car here is my two cents:
1 - Two maps for a high and low boost setting isn't really beneficial. Unless your high boost setting is on the edge of dangerous for your motor, which is a bad idea imo, you don't get any real benefit from driving with a low boost map unless you are concerned about fuel economy. You just basically run a powerful car on a low power setting all the time which doesn't take full advantage of the upgrades you have installed. So if you aren't setting the one of the two maps up for a "higher than pump gas" octane I wouldn't be concerned about tuning for two different maps.
2 - Closed loop versus open loop doesn't make much difference if you know how to setup the controller. Closed loop is nice in that it adjust on the fly to compensate for outside factors but at the end of the day I don't know that I would say they are worth the added cost over open loop models.
3 - EBC > MBC, an ebc comes with stuff that lets you spool faster and protect against overboost. Not to mention the fact that they are more likely to fail in a motor safe condition than an mbc. They do cost more but you definately get more for your money
If I were in your spot I would tune my car for "X" boost and run it at that boost all the time, except for when the occasion called for lower boost due to someone else driving, something wrong with the car, etc. And if cost is a concern and you currently have a method to control boost pressure via your management system I would just use what you already have. Otherwise I would find an ebc I liked and learned how to set it up and use it.
This [in bold] as it's often used during the week driving to work. Low boost for economy and high boost for weekend driving in the hills. No need for low boost for other drivers cus I don't let anyone else drive it ever. 4 other ppl have driven it since I owned it [since early 2007]. One mate who then curbed my rims... he never drove it again, my mechanic, my tyre guy and my dad.
Now I read somewhere that the stock boost solenoid was only good for 14psi. Is this correct? I assume I'm going to have to buy an aftermarket solenoid if I do continue using the Vi-PEC or go for an EBC. I also need to find out if the BlackStealth unit will work as a stand-alone boost controller.
My boost controller also works without an ECU connected. However, to access some of the cool features of the boost controller such as reduce boost in case of knock won't be available on your Vi-PEC ECU.
If your Vi-PEC uses a serial port for communication, it would be possible to adjust my software to work with your Vi-PEC. I would need to know the serial commands to access that information. Would the manufacturer of Vi-PEC give that info out, or would we have to sniff the serial port?
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