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Thread: just slight problems, what should i check

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    just slight problems, what should i check

    Like the title says, what should I check. I have two exsisting problems

    I HAVE NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS but my CEL does work cause it turns on when i first start the car LIKE IT SHOULD

    1: No cold idle...not a big deal...BUT it should cold idle so something wrongs....it just idles to 1k, instead of going up to 2.5-3k when the engine is cold.

    2: Until i get the car nice and warm up to operating temp, it's really laggy feeling, like lacks in power. once it warms up it feels really good. sometimes it just completely bogs down like I'll give it gas and it just won't go anywhere... it free revs fine, definetly revs better tho at operating temp, I understand it's not at top form when its cold but its an abnormal to what it should be..

    I don't think I have any vacuum leaks, i found one awhile back and fixed it, I am bonestock except no Resonator, 3sx downpipe, and Intake Hardpipe w\ cone filter. So pretty much stock.

    Someone recommend me something I need to hook up a new Wideband to see but the car is mostly stock so there should be no AFR mixture issues if it's not throwing CEL's.

    little bit intoxicated...not too bad.....but if any of this doesn't make sense..that's why hahahahahah

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    Cold idle is not 2500, its more like 1100-1200. 700 is warm idle.

    [06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM

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    Banned Not Verified Blackmount's Avatar
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    just about every car I've had when you first start the car, it jumps to 2500-3000 right away and slowly goes down. Our cars ARE not suppose to do this? cause mine does it everyonce and awhile

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    My car also idles at around 2.5k and feels the same way when I drive the car in the morning. So youre not the only one who has this problem.

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    my stealth doesn't rev at 2000-2500.... although it IS summer time.. i dont drive it in the winter, but im sure it'd probably go up to 2 or 2.5k when its that cold.

    Check all your vacuum lines over again, check for leaks around the upper/lower plenums, and throttle body. Spray some intake cleaner all over those areas, and if the engine revs up, then you have found your leak.

    Let me know how that goes. I will try to think of more things.

    Mike

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    No leaks, this motor is under 50k old it should not have any problems, I discoverd a out of place green wire today that has been added that goes from a plug all the way back to the ECU...can someone find me a ECU Pinout of both 92 and 93 NON TURBO ECU's? (if there is a difference between the two years, i know the CAS is different)

    My car is a 92 with 93 motor, everything wired according to directions from That other site.

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    Are you useing a 93 ECU? If not you problem is likely a sensor latency issue from the cam/crank sensors being different on the 93 engine.

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    The latency issue is minor, and wont affect idle.

    Also, there was no need to do a wiring change and use the 93+ CAS's just because you have a 93 engine. Youl could have just popped the 91-92 CAS into the rear head and, voila, no wiring changes needed.

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    I thought 93 was the year they used the Crank sensor? cause I don't have CAS sensor. I had to rewire the harness to use a Crank sensor

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    No, you didnt. Your 92 has the old style CAS and your wiring was like so. You should have just stayed with the old style CAS and popped it directly into the rear head of the 93 engine.

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