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Thread: Rotor suggestions

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    Administrator Feedback Score 3 (100%) Alan92RTTT's Avatar
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    Rotor suggestions

    I need to replace the front rotor on my TT.

    I am not a hard core racer so I don't think that I need/want slotted or drilled rotors.

    I want something decent that won't cost an arm and a leg.

    Suggestions?

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    Forum User verified Feedback Score 0 HLxDrummer's Avatar
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    I found a set of Brembo blanks for my 1G VR4 for ~$130 if you were looking for something like that.

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    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 0 Miguel92.3000GT's Avatar
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    I've heard of people using EBC Rotors and pads.

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    One fix at a time verified Feedback Score 4 (100%) TurboSinceBirth's Avatar
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    I'd get some Brembo blanks or IPS blanks.
    95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.

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    Is there any reason not to use drilled and slotted rotors? Do the pads wear out sooner? Do the drilled and slotted rotors tend to warp easier?
    I always thought the drilled and slotted rotors would allow quicker and more efficient cooling.

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    1st ever COTM and COTY verified Feedback Score 9 (100%) green-lantern's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lucasred View Post
    Is there any reason not to use drilled and slotted rotors? Do the pads wear out sooner? Do the drilled and slotted rotors tend to warp easier?
    I always thought the drilled and slotted rotors would allow quicker and more efficient cooling.
    They will cool quicker but they will heat up faster. The original reason for drilled rotors were to let the gases out but the pads today don't really need that. The slots make more of a difference but they are like a cheese grater to pads. You will stop quicker but pads will wear faster. I do run drilled and slotted rotors from R1 concepts, I've ran them for years and never had an issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
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    I got the 6 slot DBA rotors. They are not the 4000 series though. I also have Carbotech Bobcat pads. They stop really well, and when I autocrossed they held up pretty well to. I do like them, though they are a little pricey in the sense.
    Last edited by EvanH; 10-15-2011 at 11:57 PM. Reason: poor poor grammar

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    Forum User verified Feedback Score 0 Gamerse's Avatar
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    I bought anodized crossdrilled and slotted rotors from an ebay store. I found a deal on open box EBC green stuff pads on ebay as well. I did this for my wife's talon, and my car. I'm 100% satisfied with the quality after about 35K on the talon, and 10K on the stealth. No squeaks, squeals, or noise at all. I've ran the talon hard from time to time, and noticed little to no fade at all. The Stealth performed great, the pads broke in quick, and show no fade. The EBC pads are the expensive part of the buy. With ebay, I managed to do 4 wheels on the talon for $200.00 and $300 for the stealth. I saved money on the stealth by buying ebc open box green stuff for the front, and ebc economy black for the rear.

    Do you need that stuff for daily driving? No, OEM works fine. However, for less than OEM, (prices will vary by location) you can have performance. It just takes patience took look around, and you may have to order from two or three vendors. I did on the stealth. Since you are going economical, it is a matter of how much time you have to complete the project/wait for parts.

    As far as pad wear, I have not noticed any accelerated wear. I do tend to check these things at every oil change. Stillen has an article for reading. STILLEN : STILLEN Sport Rotors - 1-Piece - Cross-Drilled / Slotted / Hook Slot Jegs offers a different opinion, siting that the increased performance leads to shorter braking duration nullifying any possible increased wear. My personal experience, along with Pauls are probably testament to the satisfactory daily driver performance of these set-ups.

    Ernest

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