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Thread: tranny removal?. clutch chatter..

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt View Post
    Ahh Spec clutch. Should have said that in the first post. I can tell you all about a Spec clutch chattering when engaged at idle. Their disc quality control is crap at best. The rivets that held mine together were improperly sized and off-center. My Spec 4+ blew itself apart, and I've found countless others who've had the same issue. I ignored it thinking it was just a throw-out bearing because it went away with the clutch pedal depressed, and the hub eventually separated from the disc. I ended up having the disc properly rebuilt by a local clutch manufacturer. My advice is to get that disc out of there asap.

    As far as oils...Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 10W-30 in the trans, and Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 75W-90 in the x-fer, 5 years of running thos
    e, 5 years of perfect shifting (with massive amounts of abuse). Prior to the 10W-30 I ran 75w-90 and 2nd gear would grind sometimes.
    neiice, i'm going to have to come back and read this a couple more times.. sounds like a good plan.

    do you remember what the clutch service was called, and what you payed?

    _isiah




    awhh, you did it!//oheay fuck you
    _isiah

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    Quote Originally Posted by shmoo View Post
    neiice, i'm going to have to come back and read this a couple more times.. sounds like a good plan.

    do you remember what the clutch service was called, and what you payed?

    _isiah
    The place is Rochester Clutch & Brake, they've been in business for 75+ years, cost me $80. I have a thread here somewhere with more details on it.
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    Is that oil on stock synchros or bronze ones? I've heard more than a few mention using 30 weight oil in the gearbox. Personally, I Just too much of a scardy cat to try it out cuz trans parts cost an arm and a leg. Out of curiosity, what made you or who convinced you to put traditional motor oil in there?
    Last edited by J. Fast; 08-18-2011 at 12:42 AM.

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    yeeah, i saw the weights that seemed like motor oil weights, but i figured mobile one made transaxle fluid the way you were talking. really.. straight up motor oil. it's not like i know what either are made of, but hmmm..

    _isiah

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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Fast View Post
    Is that oil on stock synchros or bronze ones? I've heard more than a few mention using 30 weight oil in the gearbox. Personally, I Just too much of a scardy cat to try it out cuz trans parts cost an arm and a leg. Out of curiosity, what made you or who convinced you to put traditional motor oil in there?
    Stock synchros. The previous owner of my VR4 is the one who convinced me when I mentioned 2nd gear was getting hard to get into, especially when cold. He talked to Getrag directly and they told him the manual was wrong, and 10w-30 is what belonged in their gearbox. Said that's what he had always run since he found out, and never had any issues. Sure enough, as soon as I started running it, I no longer had issues. Third-party information, but it works mint.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt View Post
    The place is Rochester Clutch & Brake, they've been in business for 75+ years, cost me $80. I have a thread here somewhere with more details on it.
    Quote Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt View Post
    Stock synchros. The previous owner of my VR4 is the one who convinced me when I mentioned 2nd gear was getting hard to get into, especially when cold. He talked to Getrag directly and they told him the manual was wrong, and 10w-30 is what belonged in their gearbox. Said that's what he had always run since he found out, and never had any issues. Sure enough, as soon as I started running it, I no longer had issues. Third-party information, but it works mint.
    grossly interesting.

    i think i'll try it..

    and the idea that better gear oil can quiet the clutch chatter down? will it keep the temp down?

    i think i'm going to put 10w30 in the transmission. are you also running 10w30 in your transfer case?
    should i be going with a high end oil? <whatever that means.. i'm hearing mobile one? .

    and get a transmission cooler. is that acceptable at this point?

    _isiah

    ediT: whooops,

    "As far as oils...Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 10W-30 in the trans, and Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 75W-90 in the x-fer, 5 years of running thos
    e, 5 years of perfect shifting (with massive amounts of abuse). Prior to the 10W-30 I ran 75w-90 and 2nd gear would grind sometimes."
    Last edited by shmoo; 08-20-2011 at 02:11 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shmoo View Post
    grossly interesting.

    i think i'll try it..

    and the idea that better gear oil can quiet the clutch chatter down? will it keep the temp down?

    i think i'm going to put 10w30 in the transmission. are you also running 10w30 in your transfer case?
    should i be going with a high end oil? <whatever that means.. i'm hearing mobile one? .

    and get a transmission cooler. is that acceptable at this point?

    _isiah

    ediT: whooops,

    "As far as oils...Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 10W-30 in the trans, and Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 75W-90 in the x-fer, 5 years of running thos
    e, 5 years of perfect shifting (with massive amounts of abuse). Prior to the 10W-30 I ran 75w-90 and 2nd gear would grind sometimes."
    If your clutch noise is the hub rivets coming loose, which being a Spec I highly suspect it is, there isn't a gear oil in the world that will quiet it down.

    I only run Mobil-1 full syn. because that's what the previous owner ran, and the idea of going against the manual still makes me cringe, so I haven't ventured into other brands (run-on sentence much?).

    I don't know anything about transmission coolers other than Jackhammer ingeniously made one, and a few others have. Unless you're running Pike's Peak I doubt it's necessary.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt View Post
    If your clutch noise is the hub rivets coming loose, which being a Spec I highly suspect it is, there isn't a gear oil in the world that will quiet it down.

    I only run Mobil-1 full syn. because that's what the previous owner ran, and the idea of going against the manual still makes me cringe, so I haven't ventured into other brands (run-on sentence much?).

    I don't know anything about transmission coolers other than Jackhammer ingeniously made one, and a few others have. Unless you're running Pike's Peak I doubt it's necessary.
    i know it's probably not necessary. but i imagine it'll help a little.

    how does a universal cooler work anyways? does the fluid actually pass through the piece, or does water pass through the piece? or..


    _isiah

    i'd like to send this clutch off, but i don't really wanna be without a car for that long. can i run a nearer to stock clutch disc with my stage four pressure plate?
    Last edited by shmoo; 08-23-2011 at 03:07 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shmoo View Post
    i know it's probably not necessary. but i imagine it'll help a little.

    how does a universal cooler work anyways? does the fluid actually pass through the piece, or does water pass through the piece? or..


    _isiah

    i'd like to send this clutch off, but i don't really wanna be without a car for that long. can i run a nearer to stock clutch disc with my stage four pressure plate?

    A universal cooler relies on there being a pump already in use. Your manual transmission has no pump, which is why it's a feat of ingenious engineering to make a manual trans. cooler work.

    The universal ones act just like a radiator. Fluid passes through them and air passes over the cooler fins to cool the fluid.

    Couldn't tell you about using a stock disc. I looked into it briefly and from what I can tell the Spec pressure plate is a painted stock plate, but they don't release that information, so maybe.

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    hmmm, thanks

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