I get to do a head swap :(

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

the car should still start, my engine will idle fairly well on 3 cylinders.

[MK_94_3000GT]

the car should still start, my engine will idle fairly well on 3 cylinders.

Interesting note, idk what to tell you it ran before. Not all that well mind you, but it pulled and drove. Then it just stopped starting and I had zero compression on cylinder 6 and upon head removal I've got a stuck valve. I am not sure if that means I have other problems or what based on what you're saying but we'll see.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

i see the thread got straightened out and read the other posts. The valve guides are probably bad or the valve is bent.

[MK_94_3000GT]

The car should still start like that though?

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

I'm not sure, but I'd think so. Mine runs with all 3 rear injectors unplugged. Unless the valve is so bound that the engine just stalls.

[MK_94_3000GT]

Injectors unplugged is different than a valve being stuck open. My valve was open. Cutting fuel to 3 is fine but nothing can escape in that situation. I am thinking thats what caused it to stop running as I have no reason to believe it was anything else. Car ran fine before.

[BaadVR4]

Now that the head is off, I'm sure you noticed you have drained most of the coolant, just like you would pulling the motor. And the probability of coolant contaminating the oil is high, so the oil will need to be changed. What other fluids are there? Trans fluid? That generally doesn't leak when pulling the engine. But I applaud your choice to pull the head with the engine in the car. As to the valve stuck open, that is generally caused by a bent valve. Stuck lifters are a different story. Either the lifter is "pumped up" (lifter stuck in the "open" position) because the lifter won't drain or there is clearance between the lifter/lifter bore and the lifter is cocked in the open position. Changing the head will probably fix the symptoms here. But if the issue is a bent valve, then changing the head may not solve the problem. If the valve is bent, something caused it.
The most common cause of a bent valve is the valve hitting the piston. If the lifter is "pumped up", it needs to be replaced. What about the rest of the lifters? IPS is having a sale on big bore lifters, so maybe a total replacement is in order.
If I were doing the job, I'd make certain both the problem and the cause of the problem were fully explored and resolved before I fired the engine again. Just my 1.5 cents worth.

[MK_94_3000GT]

Now that the head is off, I'm sure you noticed you have drained most of the coolant, just like you would pulling the motor. And the probability of coolant contaminating the oil is high, so the oil will need to be changed. What other fluids are there? Trans fluid? That generally doesn't leak when pulling the engine. But I applaud your choice to pull the head with the engine in the car. As to the valve stuck open, that is generally caused by a bent valve. Stuck lifters are a different story. Either the lifter is "pumped up" (lifter stuck in the "open" position) because the lifter won't drain or there is clearance between the lifter/lifter bore and the lifter is cocked in the open position. Changing the head will probably fix the symptoms here. But if the issue is a bent valve, then changing the head may not solve the problem. If the valve is bent, something caused it.
The most common cause of a bent valve is the valve hitting the piston. If the lifter is "pumped up", it needs to be replaced. What about the rest of the lifters? IPS is having a sale on big bore lifters, so maybe a total replacement is in order.
If I were doing the job, I'd make certain both the problem and the cause of the problem were fully explored and resolved before I fired the engine again. Just my 1.5 cents worth.

I drained both the coolant and the oil before starting this, so not much coolant spilled. Furthermore I plan to flush the car with oil several times to make sure there is no problems.

As for why the valve is stuck/bent or what have you. My guess is the previous owner of the car that this motor came from set timing wrong. Thus by my correctly setting it I would be in hopes that I have cured the problem at hand. I cant say much more than that as everything else on the motor seems ok.

[BaadVR4]

I drained both the coolant and the oil before starting this, so not much coolant spilled. Furthermore I plan to flush the car with oil several times to make sure there is no problems.

As for why the valve is stuck/bent or what have you. My guess is the previous owner of the car that this motor came from set timing wrong. Thus by my correctly setting it I would be in hopes that I have cured the problem at hand. I cant say much more than that as everything else on the motor seems ok.

If by "set the timing wrong" you mean mistiming the camshafts/crankshaft, I would agree that could cause a valve to hit a piston and bend the valve, causing it to hang open and result in zero compression in that cylinder. And the hanging valve could cause the lifter to stay all the way open because there is no pressure from the valve spring to close it. In general, camshaft/crankshaft timing far enough out to bend one valve will bend others, although only bending one is certainly a reasonable scenario.
Whatever the case, I would replace at least the one lifter that is open, if not all in the rear bank. Just my 1.5 cents worth.

[MK_94_3000GT]

If by "set the timing wrong" you mean mistiming the camshafts/crankshaft, I would agree that could cause a valve to hit a piston and bend the valve, causing it to hang open and result in zero compression in that cylinder. And the hanging valve could cause the lifter to stay all the way open because there is no pressure from the valve spring to close it. In general, camshaft/crankshaft timing far enough out to bend one valve will bend others, although only bending one is certainly a reasonable scenario.
Whatever the case, I would replace at least the one lifter that is open, if not all in the rear bank. Just my 1.5 cents worth.

Yea I thought it was weird that not all the valves bent, however odd as it may be the timing of the cams was set just not along with the crank. The motor was not in TDC when set. I can say after I fixed that problem the car ran just not well. After getting a zero compression reading over cylinder 6 I have since removed the head and discovered my stuck/bent valve. The piston looks fine, cylinder wall looks good. I've no reason to believe anything else is wrong other than that valve somehow got bent due to being mistimed and thus is my problem. I will flush and drain the system again and go back over the bearings just to be safe however oil pressure was good when it ran. I think I'm nearing the end of this problem so hopefully I'll have my DD back soon.