pump it a bunch of times, and you will be able to drive it for a little bit until you can get the slave cylinder. buy yourself some extra fluid, keep it in the car. Did you find fluid leaking anywhere, or low on fluid?
pump it a bunch of times, and you will be able to drive it for a little bit until you can get the slave cylinder. buy yourself some extra fluid, keep it in the car. Did you find fluid leaking anywhere, or low on fluid?
Circa 2005... Oh my, how far I've come
Current:
2004 ML500 - Mommy Mobile
1996 Ram 2500 V10 - Tow Vehicle
1991 Stealth R/T Twin Turbo - Pink Parts, Billet GZP 747's
1995 3000GT VR-4 - lawn gnome
1999 3000GT SL - 7,436 miles
1995 3000GT Spyder - garage ornament
FOR SALE:
1995 3000GT Spyder VR-4 Red, 80k miles
Thanks for reply. I just went back out with a light and found some drops of fluid on the ground. It is definatly leaking. When i turned the car off i could hear the drips hitting the puddle under there somewhere. It would go in gear like you said if i pumped it a bit so i will give it a go on the highway tomorrow. At least get it as far as i can. I have about a quart or more of DOT 3 fluid with me and a funnel. So the slave is the part that moves to piston rod to press on the fork right? that should be the easy one to replace. hopefully tackle it the day the part comes in. That is if I manage to get it back home.
Thanks again![]()
Slave is not too hard. Remove battery and maybe the tray too and take the intake bubble out to gain access.
Hey, been a while since I updated this post but I still have not been able to solve my problem from my OP. I am hesitant to buy another ISC from someone like rock auto because im just afraid it may not be the issue. I think this mainly because the last time mine was bad the car would just die instead of idle in low rpms. this is a bit different where it will almost seem like the throttle is stuck at certain rpms above 14 or so mph. if anyone has anymore ideas of if they think buying a new one is what I should do I just might. Thanks again.

if the car idles fine when you start it then it's not the IAC. You said it gets worse when it gets warmed up. The only thing I can think of would be an issue with the FIAV which is coolant controlled. It may be getting stuck open/closed. It all sounds like a throttle body issue to me and not electronic.
IAC can very well cause a high idle. When my IAC went out it made my idle erratic. It would idle low and even stall sometimes, other times it would idle at 2500 rpm. It all depends on what state it gets stuck in. Ever since I replaced it the car has ran fine.
Paul, I'd just go with a Rock Auto IAC. Worst case scenario, you have an extra IAC, or one to sell. I think AC99 is the RA part number. If it fixes it, you have your solution, if it doesn't you have eliminated a cause.
[06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM
Thanks Brian and Gonzo. Ill give a rock auto one a shot see what happens. I wanted to order anything that might get it fixed so when the weather is nice she is ready to come out of the garage. Well, time to order, thanks again ill update when I know more![]()
Just for the record I did put in the new ISC and the problem is still there. However, last week an interested party came with cash and drove my car away for $6450, She had 107k miles, 15gs with supporting mods, 18" chrome saleen replicas and still had a clean original paint job. If I could have sat with the car for sale longer Im sure I could have gotten a little more but I will be gone the entire summer for some Active duty BS and wanted the extra cash to pay off the wifes car. Thanks again for the help with the car everyone, It was a fun ride.
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