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Thread: Restoration of my 94 VR4

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    Restoration of my 94 VR4

    So I bought this car back in 2008 I believe. I am the 3rd owner.

    When I got it it had 125,xxx miles and currently has 165,xxx miles. I don't believe that anyone has ever replaced any of the suspension prior to me.

    So begin my quest to get this thing to the track...
    Frist. Buy a honda civic to drive back and fourth to work. Check

    Second, buy stuff to replace all the worn out and neglected pieces of the car.
    OEM ECS struts
    Eibach Lowering springs
    (should have just gone with coilovers same damn price lol )
    3sx Suspension poly bushing kit
    Energy suspension poly sway bar bushings
    AWS delete kit (have to put on yet)
    Front ball joints
    Drivers side axle/CV joint
    Rear wheel hub
    3sx adjustable rear control arms

    I worked on this project over a few weekends with my dad who is an old car nut. He normally just works on boring echo boxes that drive people from point A to point B but he used to have a few E-Type Jag's (xke I think) when he was younger so he has always been into the fast car stuff.

    After countless hours we finally completed all of this stuff without breaking anything on the car. I finally got it aligned the other day and got some new tires put on and HOLY @#%@# does it feel smooth. I dont think this car has been in alignment for a LONG time. Gradually replacing all of the old stuff.

    Just though I would share.
    Last edited by STiedVR4Guy; 07-22-2011 at 09:50 PM.

  2. #2
    One day....it will be on 4 wheels. supporter Feedback Score 2 (100%)
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    Cool! doing the same thing most of us have had ot do

    can I suggest you do both front Hubs as well.

    do the steering rack boots..

    and your better off without coilovers, stock ECS is amazing.
    Building a House, Car Mods on hold!
    1996 GTO, Owner since 2003.

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    Ok, on this subject, I have a few complaints. I used to have an STi and the steering on that thing was fucking TIGHT! Turn in response was instant and there was zero slack in the steering wheel. This I have about an inch + before it really starts to turn in. So, to get my STi that way was replacing the steering rack bushings with some really hard polyurethane. I know there isn't an option for that on this car. Is there anything else that I should look at or that can be improved to remove all the slack from the steering wheel?

    Second, I am still getting a slight vibration in the steering wheel after everything is said and done. Can this be caused by the car still being out of alignment? or is it probably just a bad job on balancing the tires? Any other suggestions to what it could be???

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    One day....it will be on 4 wheels. supporter Feedback Score 2 (100%)
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    there is worth of there being 2 x different steering racks for the GTO...one is loose (as you say) the other is tight (like a tiger) odd reports from different people about what cars had what racks.

    Vibration could be any number of things....slight tread issue, wheel bearing going, CV's needing replacing, rear engine mount bouncing off subframe

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    Quote Originally Posted by MR2 View Post
    there is worth of there being 2 x different steering racks for the GTO...one is loose (as you say) the other is tight (like a tiger) odd reports from different people about what cars had what racks.

    Vibration could be any number of things....slight tread issue, wheel bearing going, CV's needing replacing, rear engine mount bouncing off subframe
    This is interesting. Is there a way to identify the difference between the 2? Could someone else chime in on this?

    I do not have my rear motor mount replaced with the poly one yet... that could be it. Otherwise I have checked all of the wheel bearings, replaced one of my CV joints (the others feel tight). Tires and alignment are brand new.

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    The Panda Not Verified Feedback Score 0 vr4tune's Avatar
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    My steering rack is leaking and I was wanting to replace it. One thought was to se if I could get an Evo rack to fit. I wonder if they had updated the rack on the 3000gt in the later years.

    Ported heads, IPS 2mm oversized valves, Delta 264/272 cams, 3SX High rev valve springs, 3SX cam gears,
    Merkel 6g72 3.5L BILLET crank stroker (going in this summer), 3sx poly motor mounts
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    AEM wideband & boost gauge, AEM EMS in speed density,
    Addco sway bars, DBA 4000 drilled & slotted rotors, Enkei PF01 18x9 +45, BFGoodrich g-froce KDW 245/40/R18

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    no-one has given me any info on what the two different rack's are sorry man, my steering is great.

    I guess find a few vins and throw them on the part finder and look for the different part numbers (other than the AWS)

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    Now with more poop-smear Not Verified Feedback Score 8 (100%) IPD's Avatar
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    if you're keeping the OEM struts, you should look at replacing the strut mounts. unfortunately, you already got it aligned....so.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by STiedVR4Guy View Post
    Frist. Buy a honda civic to drive back and fourth to work. Check
    Now here is a guy that knows how to mod a car! It’s always the 1st thing that needs to be done when modifying a 3s.

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
    I bet she smells of old mustard and sawdust.
    Jeremy

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    Quote Originally Posted by MR2 View Post
    no-one has given me any info on what the two different rack's are sorry man, my steering is great.

    I guess find a few vins and throw them on the part finder and look for the different part numbers (other than the AWS)
    Sorry forgot to mention this, I did replace them when I replaced the struts. One of the bearings wouldn't even turn lol.

    Would also like to know if anyone has looked into replacing the rack with an evo rack? they are very responsive like I am looking for.

    Another thing would be getting a VERY hard poly bushing for the rack, I dont know if that would get rid of the slack, I'll look into it.
    Last edited by STiedVR4Guy; 07-25-2011 at 11:48 AM.

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