So how do most of you people run a vac line to the a pillar without it getting smashed in the door?
So how do most of you people run a vac line to the a pillar without it getting smashed in the door?
Up through the hole in the dash and behind the A-pillar. There's enough space.
R135
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- 24
Yep, it's easy.
On a related note. What do you guys do with that damn hard booster line next to the Y-pipe besides delete it?
Mine's still there. I like the feel of the clutch, I don't want to change it.
Neither do I. I want to keep it, I just don't want to see it. It's such a stupid way to route that. I would imagine that it doesn't have to be a hard line?
It doesn't need to be, but I'd imagine a rubber line that long would start wanting to collapse.
That's my only concern. I guess I could easily just get some hard line in that size and just bend it up and route it out of sight.
I was going to suggest that next Make sure you flare the ends if you do that.
There's a trick to not allow rubber lines to collapse, if you wanted to try that. Just shove a spring of appropriate size in to the locations where it's going to bend. It will allow it to flex, but not collapse.
Filling it with sand would also prevent collapse but then that's not really a viable solution is it.
There is hose available that is very thick walled such that you probably could not collapse it with a pair of channel locks. Ask at a good parts store and show them what the original is. I found something like that to replace the clutch vacuum line on my Fiances '93. The line has a sort of cloth wrapping around it but I don't know what kind it is. Also make sure you have the one way valve inside unless you have an NA engine. Make sure the line has the same ID as the original.
Cut the old valve out carefully so you don't damage it.
You can insert the old valve inside of a new rubber hose by finding a bold that fits inside of the hose [used to push the valve back inside] and make a mark on the bolt for depth control. Then put the end of the hose in some boiling water for several seconds until it is soft then insert the valve and press it flush then stand the bolt upright and press the hose down onto the bolt and press the valve in [probably about 1 1/2 inches]. Make sure you get the valve in the right way or it will not work. Once in just run some cold water on the hose to harden it back up. Works like a charm.
Some clever ideas. About the check valve, which section of line is it? I just want to replace the hard section that runs along the side of the Y-pipe. At least for now.
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