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Thread: What is involved in going from auto to manual trans?

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    Riding topless!! verified Feedback Score 0 Gearheadvr4's Avatar
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    What is involved in going from auto to manual trans?

    I've started the conversion but I wanted to make a checklist.

    I've gathered up the parts, anything I missed?

    shifter assembly, shifter cables, brake and clutch pedal assembly, slave cylinder, master cylinder, lines, starter, passenger axle, drivers side intermediate shaft, starter, flywheel, clutch kit, engine to trans brackets and the trans.
    Last edited by Gearheadvr4; 07-06-2011 at 04:37 AM.

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    No sheep are safe tonight supporter Feedback Score 4 (100%) Valhallaz's Avatar
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    Other than a shift boot, looks like you have the parts list covered. For me, the hardest part was cutting the hole for the master cyl, but I'm as big as a house with fists the size of softballs. I used a dremel tool and half a dozen cutting wheels, dunno how others did it.

    Also, I didn't even attempt a large hole and two small. I just cut the large hole, and then slotted it up and down for the master cyl studs. Works just fine.
    Last edited by Valhallaz; 07-06-2011 at 08:03 AM.

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    94 3500gt vr2? verified Feedback Score 9 (100%) n2nsanity's Avatar
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    u need the flywheel bolts, they are the same as the flex bolts but a longer
    i had some issues with my pass side motor mount bracket, not an issue if it's still attached to the mtx u have
    is the trans from the same year as your car? i know 91,92's had smaller axles than the rest, so you could possibly end up needing both axles instead of just the pass side.
    if your car is a 93+ be careful not to lose the speedo sensor pin

    also, you might want a good bi-metal hole saw kit, use the holes in pedal assembly backplate for a template
    and be ready to splice some wires


    also, should this be in the drivetrain section?
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    Riding topless!! verified Feedback Score 0 Gearheadvr4's Avatar
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    All the parts are from a 99 vr4 with extremely low miles. Is the pedal assembly is one whole piece or just the backplate? What wires need spliced? I should be ok on the mounts since I have solids from my vr4. I'm doing this in conjunction with my awd conversion too. Will I need to swap over the rotors from the vr4 too or can I keep most of the SL parts? I have slotted rotors and newer front subframe parts. The steering and feel of my SL is very tight. My VR4 wasn't so much...

    I didn't even know we had a drivetrain section. If this needs moved, that's ok with me.

    Valhallaz - When you say slotted the holes, did you take a pic of this? Not sure I can picture what you mean there.

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    Now with more poop-smear Not Verified Feedback Score 8 (100%) IPD's Avatar
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    i've always thought it was a bad idea to attempt multiple mods simultaneously--especially massive ones like you're planning. it's not impossible to do, but troubleshooting any problems becomes exponentially more difficult.

    you can keep all of the front drivetrain components from the SL in place; the only thing it impacts is how you go about replacing front wheel bearings & you'll have to use FWD bbk's--if you upgrade.

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    The Infamous Mr. Chocolate Feedback Score 0 AudibleSilence's Avatar
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    I'd rather be a turbo fwd auto than a fwd manual.
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    Now with more poop-smear Not Verified Feedback Score 8 (100%) IPD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AudibleSilence View Post
    I'd rather be a turbo fwd auto than a fwd manual.
    +eleventy billion

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    Wrench Monkey Not Verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) TwIzTeD_3kGt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gearheadvr4 View Post
    All the parts are from a 99 vr4 with extremely low miles. Is the pedal assembly is one whole piece or just the backplate? What wires need spliced? I should be ok on the mounts since I have solids from my vr4. I'm doing this in conjunction with my awd conversion too. Will I need to swap over the rotors from the vr4 too or can I keep most of the SL parts? I have slotted rotors and newer front subframe parts. The steering and feel of my SL is very tight. My VR4 wasn't so much...

    I didn't even know we had a drivetrain section. If this needs moved, that's ok with me.

    Valhallaz - When you say slotted the holes, did you take a pic of this? Not sure I can picture what you mean there.
    The pedal assembly is one piece...4 nuts on the firewall and 2 bolts that go through the top of it iirc. Don't have to remove anything extra to get it out (other than the plug/rod/spring connected to the brake pedal). Motor mounts shouldn't be a problem. Not sure of the year you're working with, but if it's the same plug as a '94 there will be 3 rows of terminals on the old ATX plug. The middle row should have 4 terminals, the first 2 are for park/neutral switch and the other 2 for reverse lights. The park/neutral you can just splice together to start the car. The reverse you need to splice in the connector that plugs into the trans.
    Last edited by TwIzTeD_3kGt; 07-06-2011 at 12:59 PM.
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    No sheep are safe tonight supporter Feedback Score 4 (100%) Valhallaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gearheadvr4 View Post
    Valhallaz - When you say slotted the holes, did you take a pic of this? Not sure I can picture what you mean there.
    I didn't get pics, sorry.

    I mean that I had no drill capable of getting to where the holes for the studs on the master cyl would go through. So instead of drilling holes for them, I cut the initial large round hole, and then cut slots up and down from that that just long enough that the studs would fit into them.
    It would look sort of like saturn being the hole, and the rings from the side being the slots.

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    BAD ASS - I've got one Not Verified Feedback Score 9 (100%) j2k4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Valhallaz View Post
    It would look sort of like saturn being the hole, and the rings from the side being the slots.
    Excellent representation - very descriptive.
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