Brake upgrade opions needed.

[95gto]

You can run ss lines, upgraded fluid, good rotors, and an aggressive street pad and you should be fine.

For your application slots or cross drilling isn't super essential on the rotors so long as they are a quality/heavy part. Although I believe Pete posted an article that showed cross drilling did improve brake performance on the street due to improved cooling. And the slotting is supposed to help but it does eat your pads faster. At the end of the day just buy a quality part and you should be fine.

For fluid I run Motul RBF 600 and have never had it boil but ATE Super Blue should also work just fine or any other fluid with a similar wet boiling point.

With regard to pads my experience has mainly been with ebc and for a car driven mostly on the street I would recomend ebc reds. You could go up to yellows but they have a weaker cold bite than the reds, although its not a huge difference. The deciding factor is if you want to deal with the weaker initial bite of the yellows in favor of their better hot performance on a track. Since you don't track the car often that is why I suggested the reds over the yellows. I have also heard great things about carbotechs and I'm sure Phillip could make some awesome recomendations for you if wanted to go that route.

[i3igpete]

I personally had bad experiences with two sets of reds basically crumbling after 2 hard sessions, so i wouldn't recommend them.

for fluid i personally use ATE blue/gold, i just make sure to do a full flush at the start of the season and quick bleed before each event. I've never needed the high temp of motul but then again my car is a bit lighter than a stock car - i also take an easy lap every 4th lap, to try and cool everything down.

i think philip also stopped selling the titanium backing plates (i couldn't find them on the website), you might want to give him a ring a double check.

[95gto]

I personally had bad experiences with two sets of reds basically crumbling after 2 hard sessions, so i wouldn't recommend them.

for fluid i personally use ATE blue/gold, i just make sure to do a full flush at the start of the season and quick bleed before each event. I've never needed the high temp of motul but then again my car is a bit lighter than a stock car - i also take an easy lap every 4th lap, to try and cool everything down.

i think philip also stopped selling the titanium backing plates (i couldn't find them on the website), you might want to give him a ring a double check.

Wow I have never heard of the reds crumbling like that. I know Von ran on those with his black car at both NG09 and NG10 but I guess it is also dependent on how hard you push the brakes. Given your experience then I would air on the side of caution and use yellows.

[2fnloud]

I only found the backing plates for big brakes.

I know I have / had the goal of 60-0 in under 100' before NG. Thing is my brakes only let me down slightly in the lap that caused me to do off the track at turn one. Then I didn't even have total brake fade. After that I learned to pump my brakes allot sooner to test them, I also braked allot less after that run.

Phillip instructed that I was braking too much, and I could smell the result about the third lap. After that I couldn't smell them until what ended up being the white flag lap, so by then I am taking it easy to cool down the braking system.

I have the 3SX stainless lines, I will definitely get:

Caliper Re-build kits
AMSoil Series 600 DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid
Supercar Caliper Stiffening Bolts
Speed Bleeders
Carbotech Panther Plus (AX6) Front Pads
Carbotech Bobcat Rear Pads

I have gathered that this is still an acceptable combination for street

Front Rotors
Rear Rotors

Rotors will either be solids or just slots...I have seen enough pictures and proof that cross drilled crack.

[i3igpete]

yeah i think i've posted pictures before, don't know if you saw them:





on the second set , the paint on the edge of the pad went from red to black to yellow

also, just in case, pick up an extra front and rear speed bleeder when you order them. i think maddog had one of those leak, and it's cheap insurance so you don't have to tow your car home.

[JasonY]

I only found the backing plates for big brakes.

I know I have / had the goal of 60-0 in under 100' before NG. Thing is my brakes only let me down slightly in the lap that caused me to do off the track at turn one. Then I didn't even have total brake fade. After that I learned to pump my brakes allot sooner to test them, I also braked allot less after that run.

Phillip instructed that I was braking too much, and I could smell the result about the third lap. After that I couldn't smell them until what ended up being the white flag lap, so by then I am taking it easy to cool down the braking system.

I have the 3SX stainless lines, I will definitely get:

Caliper Re-build kits
AMSoil Series 600 DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid
Supercar Caliper Stiffening Bolts
Speed Bleeders
Carbotech Panther Plus (AX6) Front Pads
Carbotech Bobcat Rear Pads

I have gathered that this is still an acceptable combination for street

Front Rotors
Rear Rotors

Rotors will either be solids or just slots...I have seen enough pictures and proof that cross drilled crack.

Here are the plated:
D460 Titanium Brake Shim for Mitsubishi 3000GT, Nissan 300Z, Subaru WRX [TS-T-D0460] : Hard Brakes - TiSpeed Titanium Brake Backing Plate Heat Shield Shims

Jason

[2fnloud]

yeah i think i've posted pictures before, don't know if you saw them:





on the second set , the paint on the edge of the pad went from red to black to yellow

also, just in case, pick up an extra front and rear speed bleeder when you order them. i think maddog had one of those leak, and it's cheap insurance so you don't have to tow your car home.

Thank you I will do that.

[95gto]

I only found the backing plates for big brakes.

I know I have / had the goal of 60-0 in under 100' before NG. Thing is my brakes only let me down slightly in the lap that caused me to do off the track at turn one. Then I didn't even have total brake fade. After that I learned to pump my brakes allot sooner to test them, I also braked allot less after that run.

Phillip instructed that I was braking too much, and I could smell the result about the third lap. After that I couldn't smell them until what ended up being the white flag lap, so by then I am taking it easy to cool down the braking system.

I have the 3SX stainless lines, I will definitely get:

Caliper Re-build kits
AMSoil Series 600 DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid
Supercar Caliper Stiffening Bolts
Speed Bleeders
Carbotech Panther Plus (AX6) Front Pads
Carbotech Bobcat Rear Pads

I have gathered that this is still an acceptable combination for street

Front Rotors
Rear Rotors

Rotors will either be solids or just slots...I have seen enough pictures and proof that cross drilled crack.

Sounds like a solid recipe

And Pete those pads are scary, I had not seen that before.

[Slacker1357]

for anyone thinking of brake upgrades... try EBC slotted rotors and yellow stuff. Holy crap. with stock calipers, my SL was stopping pretty good on the track...

just my $0.02

[2fnloud]

After a few E-mailes from Philip at supercar, I have a solid idea where to go, and to slacker1357.....be careful with your EBC rotors, check them regularly at the point where the rotor joins to the hat, they like to break. Philip steered me away from them.