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Thread: Brake upgrade opions needed.

  1. #11
    Monogamous Gigolo verified
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    Honestly my stock set-up and probably original brake fluid only failed my one lap on the road course in it wasn't complete brake fade, it just wasn't was strong the previous lap. I was my first time out and Philip instructed me that I was braking way more than what was needed.

    My other times out I never experienced brake fade at all and I couldn't smell my brakes until my last lap.

    On Auto-X brake fade was never an issue.

    Please do not turn this into a bickering match

  2. #12
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    But you cant run stock wheels on the 355's.

    Jason

    Silverstone Metallic 94 R2 FD and a Silver 2015 F250 Lariat Ultimate CCSB 6.7PSD
    Sold: Black 99 VR4 and two Pearl White 93 VR4's. Just say NO to FMIC's

  3. #13
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    that is a major deciding point right there, thank you

    what is the general consensus of EBC pads and rotors? Yellowstuff was recommended by someone at NG, a 3SX crewmember IIRC.

    I bought the 3SX SS lines at NG.

  4. #14
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    R/T93 has the most experience on beating on OEM hardware, he'll be the person to ask on which parts to use.

    Carbotech AX6's have been the best pads ive ever run, little dusty but epic braking power, the bobcat is a better "street" pad, but i prefer overkill. He also runs them on OE calipers with the same opinion. Rotors, ive had good luck with powerslots, unsure what he ran before going to the SCE 2-piece rotors.

    Sorry for the bickering, the "bigger is mandatory" babble really sets me off since its so horribly wrong info i also have to step in and give my opinion and experience.

    Jason

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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonY View Post
    Considering I actually tracked my car and ran the fucking shit out of it this week and didnt have brake fade with what is basically a very aggressive street pad in a 2 ton car on a 2.3 mile course in 3 15 minute sessions burned half a tank of gas in only 60 miles. I also used my brakes a lot more then needed since i was a little cautious about bending up my prized possession...

    I've also gone 160 to a dead stop in a 100% full panic stop w/o the slightest fade:)

    332's are all you need. I've actually done it, not read about it...

    Jason
    That is also great to know, I don't see getting my car up to that speed at any NG road course event. I only made it a point to look once, I got up to 125 in the straight away, and know it wasn't the lap that I went lawn mowing.

  6. #16
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    The 160-0 was horsing around with a Porsche on the highway and having a light change that i was A LOT closer to than i thought..lol

    Jason

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonY View Post
    R/T93 has the most experience on beating on OEM hardware, he'll be the person to ask on which parts to use.

    Carbotech AX6's have been the best pads ive ever run, little dusty but epic braking power, the bobcat is a better "street" pad, but i prefer overkill. He also runs them on OE calipers with the same opinion. Rotors, ive had good luck with powerslots, unsure what he ran before going to the SCE 2-piece rotors.

    Sorry for the bickering, the "bigger is mandatory" babble really sets me off since its so horribly wrong info i also have to step in and give my opinion and experience.

    Jason
    jason, i agree with pretty much everything you've said. for the record, i didn't say bigger was mandatory. it's quite possible to get decent performance from the 2g calipers with carbotech.

    my only point of contention is that IF someone wanted to upgrade from stock 2g, i feel that 355 is the ideal "stopping point". if you're happy with your 330's--great! each to his own.

    p.s.
    that's still no experience with 355's.

  8. #18
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    I had 355mm brembo's on my 93...I like the ST's better, little better feel and are lighter. No discernible difference in braking power.

    Jason
    Last edited by JasonY; 06-27-2011 at 04:42 PM.

  9. #19
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    My suggestion would be this:

    Get 2 mitsubishi caliper rebuild kits, P/N MB857261

    Buy a semi aggresive street pad for the front, Carbotech AX6 or Porterfield R4S, get something less expensive for the rear, I personally run Hawk HP+ on the rears.

    Get these, no exceptions. They are cheap and good.
    Supercar Engineering


    1998 MITSUBISHI 3000GT VR4 Front Brake Rotors - Cross-Drilled & Slotted eds.46052
    These are decent affordable front rotors, you could get the rears too, but honestly stock blanks are more than satisfactory. If your stock front rotors are still in good shape you can use them, but if they have been turned a couple times, its time for new ones.

    You already have SS lines so thats great, spend 45 dollars on 3 pints of Motul 600 brake fluid, or something with greater than 500 degree temperature rating. Valvoline has a decent Synthetic DOT 4 fluid you can buy at auto parts stores for half the price than the Motul.

    So all in all, these parts with a well bled system will work harder than you can imagine. I was able to lap my car with NO fade and had complete confidence in this setup lap after lap after lap. I wasnt braking as hard I could have, I had an instructor with me, he realized we were 4200 lbs + and he asked me if my brakes were doing OK, the next stopping zone I used about double the pedal pressure I was previously and the instructor almost couldnt believe the rate which we slowed for such a heavy car.

    You can PM me if you have any other questions. I would be happy to answer.

    Pretty much if everyone ran with a brake system like this no one would complain about brake fade again unless they were 400+ awhp and running high speed courses. Jason got the trophy 332's cuz they look SICK, and he got them on sale. I cant stand the people that think these brakes are junk when they are running OEM pads and Napa dot 3 brake fluid.... what do they expect.

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  11. #20
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    Any objections to AMSoil series 600 DOT4 brake fluid? I use all their other lubricants, just asking.

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