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Thread: Post a recent picture of your car

  1. #2061
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    Says he who does not post a picture...

    Old one but I still like it My buddy's car that I did the powdercoating on.

    1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
    Mods: DR750s, BC Sportsman rods, Ross pistons, ACT HD 6 puck clutch, 5 speed transmission, 300M output shaft, Broomfield racing billet transfer case housings, Spectre air filter, GM 3.75" MAF w/translator, DN Pre-turbo pipes, Pampena/CX Racing dual core FMIC, M2 Performance turbo-back exhaust, Walbro 450lph E85 pump, SXPerformance fuel filter, stainless fuel feed lines, EK2 Mfg fuel rails, SXPerformance AFPR, 1000cc Bosch injectors, 99 VR4 replica ECU w/ Chrome for tuning, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark, Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, IPS oil cooler, Intrax springs on KYB GR2 struts, Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +30, Nexen N3000s, 99 front end, carbon fiber steering wheel, Pioneer AVH-X2600BT, JL C2 6.5" and 6"x9" speakers, free 4 channel amp for subs (LOL), twin Alpine 10" type E subs.

    Made 608whp/631wtrq on Pampena's dyno @ 31 psi.

  2. #2062
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    Here's mine, complete with several months worth of dust on it...(hoping for that to change very soon, though!!)

    Sorry about the blurriness...


    & Chris, I'd have to say that you can't really expect to be throwing too much money at these cars until you're making a minimum of $40K a year...I'm making low-30s+benefits A.T.M., paying CHEAP rent, & continuing to pay off student loans that I accrued (4 1/2 years on-campus, changed majors + .5 yr overseas studies) & even then does that leave very little (at least IMO) left over for any notable changes/upgrades to the car. Budgeting your upgrades & smart shopping, whether it be supporting one vendor or multiple ones + discounted OEM parts from certain dealerships, are by far the easiest way to go about these cars (provided you aren't pulling more than $50K+ a year w/minimal or standard debt(s)).

    I would say that the general consensus here is that the majority of 3/S owners today (read: not all) seem to be unable to conduct general maintenance on their vehicles, whether they choose to do that work themselves or hire a shop to do it for them. Case in point, the PO of my R/T TT didn't know a single thing about maintenance of cars & he openly admitted it to me, so here I am about another $3,500-4,000 worth of maintenance work over my initial vehicle purchase price ($5,400) & the car is still sitting for yet another major repair to be done.

    Supporting vendors whenever possible is the best thing to do for this platform if we ever want to see more parts being produced, more competitive pricing on quality products, & more barriers being broken, but the truth is sometimes you can find products that can prove to be great alternatives to what the 3/S-specific vendors are offering. I know I've done that for a few items so far (those eBay silicone I/C hoses, for example), though I truly do try my best to continue to support the vast majority of our vendors to help ensure that they stick it out with this platform just like those of us who know we have more invested into these cars than their current resale values are.
    Last edited by Street_Chally73; 03-11-2013 at 12:18 AM.
    '90 Toyota Celica GT Liftback..........................(X) (daily driver)
    '73 Dodge Challenger 340...............................(X)
    '91 Firestorm Red Stealth R/T TT.....................(X)

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  4. #2063
    Now with more poop-smear Not Verified
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocWalt View Post
    My dad has a modded Fiesta... I'd rather drive that than most of the 3Ses I've seen.
    largely due to owners who could never afford a 3/s in the first place, and trashed them.

    anyone who says they're taking the cheap route is an idiot. (cheap, as in most of ebay & lots of untested shit--not "inexpensive" as in good solutions that some platform pioneers have espoused). even some of our supposed vendors aren't exactly reputable--and if the price seems too good to be true--it probably is. i won't even try and support new vendors anymore; i'll wait until they have an established business record.

    i think a lot of owners forget that the 3/s was originally not even in the same ballpark as a car like the mustang--they were priced very differently. consequently, the 3/s is going to eat more money on upkeep and stuff; after all, it was considerably more expensive (especially compared to the fox body--MSRP vs. MSRP).

    p.s.

    pics in another week, hopefully. car hasn't been outside of the storage unit in a year.

  5. #2064
    BAD ASS - I've got one Not Verified
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    Quote Originally Posted by Street_Chally73 View Post
    Here's mine, complete with several months worth of dust on it...(hoping for that to change very soon, though!!)

    Sorry about the blurriness...
    Your car looks super-straight.
    Ranked No. #1 in initial quality

    Idiots, simply by being idiots, seem capable of achieving randomly bad things that are beyond the imaginings of sensible people.

  6. #2065
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    Quote Originally Posted by IPD View Post
    largely due to owners who could never afford a 3/s in the first place, and trashed them.

    anyone who says they're taking the cheap route is an idiot. (cheap, as in most of ebay & lots of untested shit--not "inexpensive" as in good solutions that some platform pioneers have espoused). even some of our supposed vendors aren't exactly reputable--and if the price seems too good to be true--it probably is. i won't even try and support new vendors anymore; i'll wait until they have an established business record.

    i think a lot of owners forget that the 3/s was originally not even in the same ballpark as a car like the mustang--they were priced very differently. consequently, the 3/s is going to eat more money on upkeep and stuff; after all, it was considerably more expensive (especially compared to the fox body--MSRP vs. MSRP).

    p.s.

    pics in another week, hopefully. car hasn't been outside of the storage unit in a year.
    Even the 99 3k vs a 99 Mustang GT on the high end you're looking at about a 10k difference in price tag, plus the Mustang had chains instead of timing belts..Although they were awful about eating the guides and tensioners (ask me how I know :P RIP Stang). Even with those, which were high 20 to low 30k cars, they were designed primarily for older guys and the parts for it are expensive considering that Ford reused the motor in damn near everything (as opposed to the more limited interchange options for the 6g72.) Factor in the huge aftermarket support for the Mustang platform even when it was an awful car (the 94-98 Mustang for instance), and they reused the same basic suspension and body stuff for 30 years and that's the only thing that makes those even semi-affordable for guys who are just getting out of HS and college. Compared to the reputation that the VR4 has for being expensive and hard to work on and unable to generate power (most likely due to all those years it was difficult to get past 400), a Mustang that you can throw 1-2k at (for a Foxbody) or 3 or 4k for a newer one and you can be at 450-500 with little else plus flashable ECUs from the factory. If you're a vendor, where would you rather go: the Mustang platform that buys cheap shit but sells in large volume, a foreign make (like a BMW) that is more limited in numbers but guys are willing to spend a ton, or the 3/S which has limited numbers of cars and limited numbers of people willing to pay to play.

    I agree some shit is overpriced from some of the vendors, but by and large they're one of our best resources for quality, reliable parts that were designed for our cars and not just some generic POS. Not to mention for a lot of the vendors, the customer service is fantastic and they are guys who are genuinely invested in the platform AND the community, not guys just looking to make a quick buck. Cheap, fast, reliable: You can only get 2 of the 3 (or 1 of the 3 sometimes :P )

    Now, let's get this shit back on track and get pictures going.


    That is one of my cam lobes, 2 or 3 others on both intake cams are like that. So I bought another set of heads and got a free block with it :P Have to evaluate to see which block is in better shape.



    Cause this rusted p.o.s. would be the block that was currently in my car.


    And for the actual vehicle, this is how it sits now.

    Away in NY for a week, can't wait to get back and strip the rest of these parts off of it. Need to get the side skirts off of it, but the metal where the skirt meets the underbody is literally folded and crushed over the bolts so i have to figure out how to get that off. Tried prying it off and cutting it with a dremel..Think I may have to get a grinder and a cut off wheel unfortunately :/
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
    Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts

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  8. #2066
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    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

  9. #2067
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    Quote Originally Posted by DK77 View Post
    Says he who does not post a picture...
    I've got photos now!

    0ga quick disconnects for the my rear (secondary) battery just arrived so I can yoink it out if I ever take it to a strip - these things are huge. Came to 43 shipped UPS ground for the pair. Anywho, less talky talky more pictures:

    one unpackaged:


    each one had a little baggy of parts inside of each side - nicely pac


    the included hardware for each side - one for the cabling (instructions are to torque to 150-250 ft :


    the twisting side:


    both sides - the one on the right is actually sticking out further than it should be for the purpose of the photo - it actually sits flush with the rubber



    both parts assembled, inserted:



    and twisted, with a double A battery to show scale:
    (USER WAS BANNED FOR THIS POST)



    -jeff

    1992 SVX LS-L
    1996 3000GT FWD-TT
    2005 XC90 T6 AWD

    i collect parts.

    6g74 block : 6g74 crankshaft (for sale!) : 6g75 crankshaft : 6g74/75 forged H-beam rods : 6g75 MIVEC heads : 2x 20G TD05 turbos

    DrWeldin Wastegate upgrades : DrWeldin brushed sparkplug cover : Pampena solid rear diff bushings : STM brainded stainless clutch line : GZP remote clutch bleeder : Maximal Performance? T-case bracket : Seattle91VR4 poly motor mounts : front solid motor sound : 98SL ECU w/ Chrome & BlackStealth adapter harness : 3SX O2 simulators : TLE Groundwire kit

    Krank Vents (original) : 3.0" GM MAF : 3.75" GM MAF w/ adapter harness : MAFT 1.x : NinjaPerformance remote IAC block : BlackStealth LCD Boost Controller : NinjaPerformance Boost Controller : Dejon split y-pipe : Dejon pre-turbo intake pipes w/ K&N filters : K&N FIPK kit : DSM SMICs : Tim/*GT Custom TD05 SMICs BIGGER THAN YOURS : random tech high-flow cat : M2 exhaust

    Jackhammer Dual pump fuel hangar : 2x Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pumps : SX -10AN fuel filter : 450cc DSM blacktop injectors : 880cc delphi injectors : Stealthlabel injector quick disconnect clips : custom stainless steel breaded PTFE dual feed fuel setup : Fuelab FPR : Skillard underbody fuel channel

    96 Stealth spoiler (original) : 2x Cianci 52mm DS B-pillar gauge pods w/ 1x matching PS blank B-pillar (different manufacturers) : Billet grill : random eBay? strut bar

  10. #2068
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    Quote Originally Posted by sketch View Post
    I've got photos now!
    Fail! Parts pictures don't count

    Mod list (scroll down the page)
    JNS Engineering has your Spyders covered (and uncovered too!!)

  11. #2069
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    Quote Originally Posted by sketch View Post
    I've got photos now!

    0ga quick disconnects for the my rear (secondary) battery just arrived so I can yoink it out if I ever take it to a strip - these things are huge. Came to 43 shipped UPS ground for the pair. Anywho, less talky talky more pictures:

    one unpackaged:


    each one had a little baggy of parts inside of each side - nicely pac


    the included hardware for each side - one for the cabling (instructions are to torque to 150-250 ft :


    the twisting side:


    both sides - the one on the right is actually sticking out further than it should be for the purpose of the photo - it actually sits flush with the rubber



    both parts assembled, inserted:



    and twisted, with a double A battery to show scale:
    That is actually pretty kool.

  12. #2070
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    I would have gone with the other ones

    Can you hook those up backwards by accident?

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
    I bet she smells of old mustard and sawdust.
    Jeremy

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