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Thread: Painters enter please

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    JNS Engineering verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) Jimvr4's Avatar
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    JimVR4's Spyder respray project

    I'm going to be respraying my Spyder because the paint is getting very thin on some panels and of course I have the door dings and rock chips you would expect on a car with nearly 100K miles. I'm going to use a body shop for the painting but I just want to make sure I get everything right on the order.

    I'm going to stay with the X94 sable black color that came on the 95. I believe the 96 came with the X08 solano black pearl. I *think* the X94 is a single stage urethane and the X08 is a BC / CC (base coat / clear coat) paint. I'm pretty sure the X94 is single stage because when I polish it I get black color on to my polishing disc. From what I've read you can go with single stage on solid colors but all the new metal flake paints are BC / CC because you can't get depth in the finish otherwise.

    I want to be able to polish the finish for years to come so I want to make sure it is thick enough. I'm thinking like 120 micro inches ( around 4.7 mils ) would be thick enough. 3-4 coats should be able to cover it right?

    I've already talked with a body shop and we agreed I could save a couple grand by doing the de-trim myself. So far I have all the interior out and I've started pulling weatherstrips. The plan is to strip everything off including door handles, bumpers, door caps, side skirts. I'm also going for a new windshield glass.

    I'm going to try to document the Spyder top stuff as well while the interior is out,
    Last edited by Jimvr4; 06-04-2011 at 09:07 PM.

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    JNS Engineering verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) Jimvr4's Avatar
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    For a while I've wanted to fix all the minor imperfections in the Spyder including dents, rock chips and fading paint. I finally made the decision to go ahead with this project. To save cost (and because I like working on the car) I'm doing nearly all the work to de-trim the car and prepare it for paint. Here's a short list of what I've done:
    1) Remove all interior trim, seats (except for driver's), headliner, trunk trim, carpets
    2) Remove under trays, wheel well covers
    3) Remove lamps and turns, front and rear
    4) Remove front and rear bumpers, side skirts and door cap moldings
    5) Dissassemble bumpers
    6) Remove door handles and lock cylinders
    7) Remove mirrors and dissassemble
    8) Remove all weatherstripping

    Rear bumper and sideskirts were particularly painful to remove. The 4 nuts that hold the bumper sides to the rear quarter panels are very tough to reach. On the passenger side it is necessary to remove the tonneau piston to gain access to the inside of the quarter panel:



    Sideskirts were even tougher since access is through the door jambs. I don't have a picture of this area yet. Maybe when I get the car back for assembly. Here's all the parts removed:









    Here's the car getting ready to go to the body shop:

    Last edited by Jimvr4; 07-02-2011 at 08:19 PM.

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    JNS Engineering verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) Jimvr4's Avatar
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    Here's my new Targa-top Spyder, lol. Front and rear glass removed and most of the body work underway:









    Last edited by Jimvr4; 07-02-2011 at 08:21 PM.

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    Relax, it's just rocket science! Feedback Score 13 (100%) BigTyla's Avatar
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    4 thin coats should do it for urethane.

    If you're having color come off when you wax, you have single-stage paint. You probably know the advantages and disadvantages of single-stage paint already (and you also seem to have made up your mind on it) so I won't bore you with the details.

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    JNS Engineering verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) Jimvr4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigTyla View Post
    4 thin coats should do it for urethane.

    If you're having color come off when you wax, you have single-stage paint. You probably know the advantages and disadvantages of single-stage paint already (and you also seem to have made up your mind on it) so I won't bore you with the details.
    I'm no paint expert so I don't mind discussing. I've learned that black can look really good with either system but there are differences. With a highly polished SS paint the finish looks deeper since the pigment is so much closer to the surface. On the other hand the BS/CC black has a higher gloss but looks more "plastic" since the color coat is further away from the surface.

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    Forum User Feedback Score 0 Gearhead's Avatar
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    Not trying to jack your thread, but which would be better for a show car?

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    Relax, it's just rocket science! Feedback Score 13 (100%) BigTyla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimvr4 View Post
    I'm no paint expert so I don't mind discussing. I've learned that black can look really good with either system but there are differences. With a highly polished SS paint the finish looks deeper since the pigment is so much closer to the surface. On the other hand the BS/CC black has a higher gloss but looks more "plastic" since the color coat is further away from the surface.
    Black is definitely a beast of its own. I think it looks best without a clear. Of course if you're adding flakes you HAVE to go with a clear coat.

    If you want more gloss without going with a clear coat, mix your paint with a hardener.

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    Relax, it's just rocket science! Feedback Score 13 (100%) BigTyla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gearhead View Post
    Not trying to jack your thread, but which would be better for a show car?
    Subjective question. See above.

  9. #9
    JNS Engineering verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) Jimvr4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gearhead View Post
    Not trying to jack your thread, but which would be better for a show car?
    I've read that SS is better for a show car. Deeper color but less UV resistance, tougher to maintain but looks best when cared for properly.

    Quote Originally Posted by BigTyla View Post
    Black is definitely a beast of its own. I think it looks best without a clear. Of course if you're adding flakes you HAVE to go with a clear coat.

    If you want more gloss without going with a clear coat, mix your paint with a hardener.
    Agree.

    According to Em of GZP *all* our cars were BC/CC or base / pearl / clear combinations. So, either I've sanded all all the clear on my car or it was resprayed with a single stage paint sometime before I got it. I'm going to have to talk to the painter to get an opinion on what I have. Doesn't change what I'm looking for though - deep black color with a flat reflective finish

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    Relax, it's just rocket science! Feedback Score 13 (100%) BigTyla's Avatar
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    I would imagine every rendition of black was BC/CC for UV protection.

    I have not painted before but I've been doing quite a bit of research on it in preparation for painting my Talon. It looks like I'll be going black as well, only my choice will be a lot more budget-oriented.

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