My LCD screen project, boost, WBO2, Knock, etc

[Jesters Deadd]

The manual gets updated when new features get added. The coolant alarm alerts you when your engine coolant temperature exceeds this number, similar idea to knock alert. This could be useful those with large front mount intercoolers and have overheating issues, this will remind them. The "Screen Refresh" allows you to define how often the screen updates with new data. Think of it as a delay, the higher the number the less frequently it is updated. Similarly the lower the number, more often the data is refreshed with new data.

I haven't driven the 99 ECU swap very much to see an error yet, but I'm expecting to see a CEL error for it soon. I'm going to disable the second set of O2s if it's available in the ECU-flashing software. If it's not in there, I can build an O2 simulator for it.

I think the coolant warning is a great idea. And the refresh rate thing too. So the smaller the number the faster it refreshes.

[Goallie11]

I have a CEL also that it doesn't read. But I used mmcd to try reading it also, and it doesn't show anything either so I doubt it's a bug in your software.

[BlackStealth]

The software is very well tested on OBD1 cars because that's what I had. There are some minor differences when using MUT, so it is possible for some minor errors to exist. Also now that I have 99 ECU I can test it much more thoroughly and not have to rely on others for feedback.

As for error codes, I can only test for ECU error codes. If you have ABS, Cruise control, or ECS errors those cannot be checked because the datalogging cable only connects to the ECU pin.

[CoreyB]

Did every ones "H" and "E" keys get swapped? Whats going on with all teh "teh" talk. teh teh teh

Alan you bastard

[jba3]

Damn mine is outdated already! lol I was hoping this would be a software update.

If all goes like it was planned for months ago, you don't need to buy a new LCD screen, rotary, map sensor, solenoid, etc. It'll be a drop-in swap for the main brain and good to go.

I thought you did lol, your cut just looks a bit cleaner.

Mine didn't have the rotary dial it was just a blank so I cut a round piece of plastic to slip in there and the stock switch holds it down so I didn't have to glue it.





My clear plastic piece must have got some windex on it or something. That's as clean as I could get it. It didn't seem to bother me in the car though so I hope it won't when I put it back in.

That came out WAY cool! My first attempt was gluing the rotary knob to a "blank" button around the bezel that I cut, but there wasn't enough surface area on the rotary to glue. I need to pick up a rotary cover.

Has anyone seen any bugs with this?

If there is, let me know. I squash all bugs ASAP.

Agreed on this; I did some early testing and requests/comments and he responded quickly with a new version of the software to upload.

bugs...
car 1999 VR4
Issue 2: My car will get a CEL and I try to check the trouble code and it always comes back no messages in both the active faults and stored faults. The clear all messages works fine.

Try it with the key on, and engine off. I got random code reads while the car was running, and it wouldn't clear the codes. With the key on and car off, it read the code fine, then cleared it, and it stayed off. Mine's a 95, but it's worth a shot....

Some 240s have a hud, they have what appears to be a sticker on the front corner. The defi would be cool to use if it could be adapted...

A friend had a HUD setup on his evo. The little windshield sticker type. It's possible, but it's by no means "easy" or "cheap". I think his setup was around $1k.

I recently installed a 99 3000GT VR4 ECU into my 93 Vehicle and took it for a spin a few minutes ago. I decided to check out how the CEL codes worked and observed the same thing, the CEL would come on during the test. I'm pretty sure I know what it is already because I asked the ECU to perform a diagnostic test before pulling codes on 94-99 model cars. I'll just skip that forced diagnostic test and see what happens.

You could be right on the rear trim thing, I asked one person to give me feedback if it was working and they said it looked correct. It is very likely what you said, "Trim and Low fuel trim are mixed up". Fuel trims usually go between 80-140 I think, and the trim by itself has a much wider range.

Send me your email address in PM and I'll give you an update.

Yep, it looked right to me on my 95 VR4, stock ECU, stock injectors/fuel setup, etc, so it should never be TOO far off with mostly stock. Since it reads from the OBD port for the device, I couldn't simultaneously log and check the screen display.

[Jesters Deadd]

Quick question, If i was going to use the stock wiring for the new solenoid, which wire would/could I hook up the old ECU wastegate solenoid wire to. The ECU would ground the solenoid and the MFI relay would power it. I am not sure if the boost controller modulates the positive or modulates the ground to the solenoid. THanks

[BlackStealth]

Quick question, If i was going to use the stock wiring for the new solenoid, which wire would/could I hook up the old ECU wastegate solenoid wire to. The ECU would ground the solenoid and the MFI relay would power it. I am not sure if the boost controller modulates the positive or modulates the ground to the solenoid. THanks

Sounds rather risky what you're doing, especially if you're unsure of yourself. My boost controller feeds 12 volts to the boost solenoid, and then pulses the ground as needed for pulse-width-modulation. If you want to re-use stock wiring, you'll need to find two free unused wires. Personally I'd just use the boost solenoid wire I provided since it's automotive grade, correct awg, and thin enough to fit through the firewall.

[Jesters Deadd]

Sounds rather risky what you're doing, especially if you're unsure of yourself. My boost controller feeds 12 volts to the boost solenoid, and then pulses the ground as needed for pulse-width-modulation. If you want to re-use stock wiring, you'll need to find two free unused wires. Personally I'd just use the boost solenoid wire I provided since it's automotive grade, correct awg, and thin enough to fit through the firewall.

Maybe you are misunderstood me. Since I'm not using the stock wastegate solenoid I am going to remove it. But that leaves me the wastegate solenoid wire from the stock ECU. It sounds like your boost controller works the same as the stock ECU. So all I have to do is hook up the old stock wastegate solenoid wire to my new solenoid and hook up the other end to your boost controller black solenoid wire. The wire guage is fine and already routed. I'll let you know how it works when I get it working.

[NickS VR4]

I am not very electronically inclined ATM, but would it be possible to have the dummy lights tied into this. For example, if the door is open, it will have a "Door Ajar" notification displayed. Same thing with "Brake", "Low Wiper Fluid", etc.

[BlackStealth]

Maybe you are misunderstood me. Since I'm not using the stock wastegate solenoid I am going to remove it. But that leaves me the wastegate solenoid wire from the stock ECU. It sounds like your boost controller works the same as the stock ECU. So all I have to do is hook up the old stock wastegate solenoid wire to my new solenoid and hook up the other end to your boost controller black solenoid wire. The wire guage is fine and already routed. I'll let you know how it works when I get it working.

Here's extra info on the boost solenoid harness: The red and black color wires do not have any meaning. You'll have to use a meter to determine which color wire is 12 volts, so don't make any assumptions. One wire provides a constant 12volts, and the other wire pulses ground when the solenoid is active. What you're doing can be done, just be careful and don't make any mistakes. Also the "stock boost solenoid wire" is wired to the ECU, cut this wire please. You have to make sure you're not sharing the "stock boost solenoid wire" with anything else other than my boost controller.