My LCD screen project, boost, WBO2, Knock, etc

[green-lantern]

I can only build 1 more of the current design, and then I'm out of printed circuit boards.

In the works is a boxed version where the LCD screen and rotary encoder are mounted inside a smaller box (think Scanmaster 3 style). This is more for people who are afraid to cut, and rather just mount. Now that I have a 3D printer that can print plastic boxes, I can produce custom designed shaped boxes.

Oh that's pretty damn cool. Do you think you can make one that's the top of the steering column cover? I know Alan was trying to make a custom one but IDK if he ever finished it.

[Uniuno]

I reset the LCDBC by cycling the ignition. It makes the Chinese go away until the next random pull that it decides to go back.

I reset PSI start/end and the surging went away. I wasn't paying attention when I put it back, but I may have had them reversed.

I increased the duty cycle to get the boost back up and all was well for my short drive last night. It was running about 11psi. I too, need to check for boost leaks. I'm running pig rich, I was going to increase boost as high as I could and then lower fuel pressure (it's high right now, like 50) until I see knock. I should probably still check for leaks though lol

This morning after the first time it went Chinese I reset it and the rest of the drive to work it would only hit 6psi

There is so much potential here, I really don't ever want to go back to a manual BC!

I was thinking the MAC valve may be pulling too much current causing the LCDBC to go into the undesired state. I was thinking about putting the manual BC back in for trouble-shooting ONLY.

[j2k4]

Well, I 'm sure you have more motor than I have (most do ), but I started with crazy surge, and every little thing I've done so far has had the effect of lessening that.

I'm down to eliminating leaks - should have started there - it only stands to reason a 20-year-old car making several more PSI is gonna have a few leaks, and they way it's gone for me is a steady downward trend in surge.

Setting the start/end PSI at bottom got rid of the wacky solenoid behavior, so I think I'm on the right track; this stuff isn't the most intuitive for an old carburetor guy with no turbo experience.

[BlackStealth]

Oh that's pretty damn cool. Do you think you can make one that's the top of the steering column cover? I know Alan was trying to make a custom one but IDK if he ever finished it.

The original design was limited to whatever plastic boxes I could purchase, drill holes into and design the electronics to fit in that. Now with a 3D printer, I have more freedom in designing. I just gotta keep in mind the limitations of the 3D printer, for example, I have to start with a flat surface.

Here's the same 3D printer I have on youtube:


Yes, I planning to make it similar to the Scanmaster 3 with a box on top of the steering column.

I am a complete amateur at 3D drawing, so far I've used the free Google Sketchup software for designing. I then convert it into .STL format for the 3D printer for printing.

Uniuno: No need to install manual BC. Just disconnect the boost solenoid harness from the LCDBC and you will be at wastegate boost pressure for testing -- much easier doing this way for a simple test. Although I don't believe the boost solenoid has anything to do with the chinese display. When you get firmware 3.10 installed, switching menu screens will automatically re-initialize the LCD screen.

[green-lantern]

Yes, I planning to make it similar to the Scanmaster 3 with a box on top of the steering column.

Well what I meant was a piece to replace the top cover of the steering column but have the screen in it. Might be hard to unless you make the top flat and print it upside-down.

[dferguson]

Hey guys quick question,i am at update 300 on my ldcbc and was wondering if i had to udate it with 301 and 303 or if i just jump to the 303 and that brings everything up to date.This is first time i have tryed to update the software so hopefully everthing go's as planed.One more dumb question that i hate to even ask about but im not sure where i would look to even come up with an answer so here go's,I have a prosport wide band and gauge mounted in the dash hooked up that i would like to keep,but i have the lcdbc that i would like to hook up to it also which i dont think theres a problem because there is another set of wires coming off the prosport controller for dataloging but i also have the flashable ecm that can also be wire for the wide band,so basically is there a way to wire up all 3 to monitor the wide band signal. Thanks for any and all help in advance,Don

[BlackStealth]

Hey guys quick question,i am at update 300 on my ldcbc and was wondering if i had to udate it with 301 and 303 or if i just jump to the 303 and that brings everything up to date.This is first time i have tryed to update the software so hopefully everthing go's as planed.One more dumb question that i hate to even ask about but im not sure where i would look to even come up with an answer so here go's,I have a prosport wide band and gauge mounted in the dash hooked up that i would like to keep,but i have the lcdbc that i would like to hook up to it also which i dont think theres a problem because there is another set of wires coming off the prosport controller for dataloging but i also have the flashable ecm that can also be wire for the wide band,so basically is there a way to wire up all 3 to monitor the wide band signal. Thanks for any and all help in advance,Don

You can skips versions and jump to any flash version you like.

On my PLX M300 wideband I was able to hook it up to three items (LCDBC, Greddy Emanage, and EGR port for OBD1 datalogging). So it might be possible for you to do also. I was able to move my WBO2 to just one device, the LCDBC, because I can datalog WBO2 information from it.

[Uniuno]

Uniuno: No need to install manual BC. Just disconnect the boost solenoid harness from the LCDBC and you will be at wastegate boost pressure for testing -- much easier doing this way for a simple test. Although I don't believe the boost solenoid has anything to do with the chinese display. When you get firmware 3.10 installed, switching menu screens will automatically re-initialize the LCD screen.

Well, I unplugged the MacValve for the drive home from work and it never went Chinese. Are you sure 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA is the correct part number? Is there a way to bench test it? I remember reading somewhere that it doesn't matter which wire goes where.

[Uniuno]

I have a FTDI usb/serial cable on order so I will update the firmware when it arrives. I still have some surging on wastegate only, so I'll have to look into that one.

[BlackStealth]

If the boost solenoid is responsible for your chinese display, then this tells me you need to work on your power connection (either ground, or power).

Yes that is the correct Mac valve part number, I just doubled checked. Power connections to the solenoid doesn't care if its reverse or not.